The climbs of the eastern Malte Brun Range, at the head of the Murchison Glacier and those on the Liebig Range, north of Nun’s Veil, are described here. The Murchison Valley, a strangely neglected area, provides good climbing. The peaks of the Liebig Range are generally easy, but Mts Ronald Adair and Conrad offer promising rock routes. On the Malte Brun Range the climbs are long, mixed snow and rock routes of excellent quality. Some winter ice lines have also been developed (Mt Chudleigh). The head of the valley is heavily glaciated and the routes are predominantly moderate snow climbs. It is a ski touring region par excellence, with the run down the Mannering Glacier, in particular, standing out. Expansive transalpine and ski touring trips are also possible, such as those taking in the Godley – Murchison – Tasman – Franz Josef (and Fox) glaciers.
An advantage of the Murchison Valley is that the weather can be quite good when poor elsewhere in the Aoraki/Mt Cook region.
Glacier Explorers Ltd run guided boat excursions on the Tasman Lake and can provide transport to the Murchison side for climbers. At the time of printing an arm of the lake had extended toward the Murchison Valley and saves some walking. Boat rides are only possible when normal trips are running and these can be arranged at the Hermitage. Once on the other side, parties can cross the Murchison River if it is low. Alternatively, follow the river to the Murchison Valley and find crossings there. There is no longer a bridge across the Murchison River. Crossings are possible further up on the broader river flats. Beyond these, easy river beds lead up the south-east of the valley to Liebig Hut. Alternatively, the lower Murchison Valley can be reached from the Ball Hut road by crossing the Tasman Glacier from Celmisia Flat. It is possible to fly by helicopter to this hut. If the north-western side of the river is followed, travel is easy until just before Onslow Hut. At this point it may be possible to sneak around the water’s edge. If not, use a high sidle around a steep gut, to avoid the river. The river itself is often hard to cross (but have a look just in case it is low), and the travel between Liebig and Onslow Huts may involve traversing round the head of the large glacial lake at the toe of the Murchison Glacier. Travel up the main glacier is desperately tedious. It is probably just as easy to reach the head of the glacier via the Tasman Glacier and Tasman Saddle, or even better, by ski-plane. Murchison Hut is located on the north-east side of Mt Cooper.
Shelter
Liebig Hut. Owned and operated by AMCNP. It has six bunks, blankets, a radio, and some kitchen equipment (~1000m, grid ref: 928-274).
Onslow Hut. A small 6 bunk hut owned by the NZ Deerstalkers Association. Few facilities and there is no radio. This hut is sometimes referred to as Steffan Memorial Hut (~1040m, grid ref: 926-296).
Murchison Hut. A 10 bunk hut owned by the NZAC, kitchen equipment, and a radio (~1900m, grid ref: 994-399).
Times
From Celmisia Flat to the Liebig Hut 5-6 hours.
From Liebig Hut to Murchison Hut 6-8 hours.
From Tasman Saddle to Murchison Hut ~2 hours.