Aiguilles Rouges

From the approach to the East Ridge, traverse across the Onslow Glacier to gain the broad rib on the right side of the face. Head up the rib, which eventually merges into the 45–50 degree slopes of the upper face, arriving on the summit ridge between the East and High Peaks. Quite threatened by icecliffs (2018).

A vague series of spurs and shingle ledges leading to a prominent snowfield (could be shingle in late summer), then up the small spur left of the Central Gully. Joins the North Ridge below the summit.

An enjoyable climb with plenty of variety. From Onslow Hut, cross the stream draining the Onslow Glacier and then climb north to Pt 2195m. Apart from a short section of rotten rock at about 1700m, this lower part of the climb is straightforward. Above Pt 2195m, the flat sections of the east ridge can be avoided by keeping to the Onslow Glacier, but two prominent rock steps have to be climbed where the ridge begins to steepen, and another 200m further on a snow bulge is climbed. The route then gradually lies back up to the East Peak. Descend the North East Flank down to Malte Brun Pass.

This ridge starts in the Cascade Glacier, but is usually gained at half height by traversing from Malte Brun Pass. Ascend on mediocre rock over the East Peak and on to the High Peak.

This is the easiest route on Aiguilles Rouges, and the standard descent route. From Malte Brun Pass, make your way up the large snowfield to the left (east) of the north ridge. Take your pick from three couloirs from the top of the snowfield, the left one leading up to near the East Peak, the central one providing access to broad snowslopes leading to the main summit, and the right one leading to high on the north ridge.

Put this on your list. From Malte Brun Pass, pick a line up the beautiful red rock of the broad lower ridge. The lower part of the ridge is made up of several sub-ridges that eventually lead into the main ridgeline around half height. Don’t climb too far right unless you want steeper rock. After 300m the ridge narrows and relents, but the rock quality decreases somewhat.
The lower half of the ridge is equipped (2017) with double bolt anchors to allow for 30m abseils. This line can be climbed directly (crux grade 12–13). If descending the ridge, the anchors are easy to find if you stay near the crest, unless the ridge is covered in snow. One of the upper abseils involves a slightly awkward leftwards traverse to avoid a gully. An intermediate bolt has been placed to assist with the traverse.

The first prominent spur on the North West Face, to the right of the Malte Brun Pass approach gully. Start either:
(i) from the upper Beetham Stream, climbing the lower buttress (crux) as on the first ascent; or
(ii) by traversing in from Malte Brun Pass on shingle ledges.
The upper ridge has slightly easier climbing, and finishes on the North Ridge.

Beginning in the Beetham valley, climb the gully left of the west ridge. Climbed when filled with snow/ice.

Gain the prominent snowfield/scree ledge, either by traversing from Malte Brun Pass or by ascending the lower part of one of the above three routes. Gain the west ridge from the right edge of the snow/scree, then ascend good rock with some surprisingly difficult sections.

Ascend the left most of three prominent couloirs on the south-west face.

Gained by the right most of three prominent couloirs on the south-west face, which is large, winding, and ends in a short, rotten rock face. The south ridge is rather rotten at first but improves towards the top.