A seasonal route increasingly affected by crevasses on both sides and reliant on good snow conditions.
First gained from the east by Otto Frind and Conrad Kain in 1914, and first gained from the west by W Barrowman in the early 1930s. On 1 January 1953, en route to Classen Saddle, S Bethune, R Cole, and R N Ward crossed from the Whataroa to the Murchison valley via a col between Brodrick and Pt 2442m, which was recorded as the first crossing of Whataroa saddle.
From the east: Grade II, 2. From Classen Saddle or nearby, traverse north-west over the upper slopes of the Classen Glacier to arrive on Whataroa Saddle. A large schrund can sometimes block progress here, in which case ascending closer to Pt 2442m may offer a better route.
To descend into the Whataroa valley, do not attempt to descend to Lake Barrowman. Instead, head for the true left of the névé below the saddle, then descend north-west into the snow basin at 2060m. Climb 100m to the shoulder north of Pt 2288m, then descend the rounded spur to a small tarn at 1640m. Descend directly west from the tarn to the Whymper Glacier.
Images
Canterbury Westland Alps (Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint)