Mt Johnson | ClimbNZ

Type

Mountain

Altitude

2692m

Part of

Malte Brun Range

Caption

Lower Malte Brun Range and Murchison River flats, May 2017

Rights credit

Nina Dickerhof

Lat/lon

-43.603768,170.262024, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BX16 790 685

Approach

Access to the Reay valley is currently straightforward (February 2015). Walk up the Tasman Glacier then ascend a prominent, rightwards-leaning moraine ledge on the true right of the valley entrance (the true left looks impenetrable). Once in the valley, sidle upwards on the true right to the confluence of the Reay and Walpole Streams where small campsites among snowgrass can be found. From Ball Shelter to the confluence of the Reay and Walpole Streams takes about 6 hours.

Above the Murchison valley, access to the terraces beneath Novara Peak and Mt Johnson can be found up the slopes beside the Burnett Glacier. Between the Burnett and Lecky glaciers lie tussock basins with good campsites, but there are steep walls leading from these terraces down to the river.

Accessed from

Tasman Glacier

Murchison Glacier

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
A	ASo Called Arthur King, 18	18	245m	1.02
Takes the skyline pillar (as viewed from the confluence of the Reay and Walpole Streams in the Reay Valley) via a series of corners and arêtes to the lower North West Ridge of Mt Johnson. Six or seven pitches of generally good quality rock with some exposed climbing, good protection and a really nice topout ledge before an easy-angled scramble to point 2235m. To access the route from the upper Reay valley, continue sidling on the true right of the Reay Stream until a crossing point is reached a short way above an impressive chasm. Descend by heading south along the Northwest Ridge to a col and then dropping down scree and easy-angled snow to the upper Reay Valley. P1 15 40m Trad Climb the right side of a pink column just left of an eroded grey streak to finish at a large belay ledge. P2 16 40m Trad Trend left up slabby terrain to a shallow vertical corner. A couple of strenuous moves lead to a sloping ledge at the base of the main corner. P3 18 60m Trad Up the main corner to a sitting belay ledge. Pitch could be split in two if climbing on 50m ropes. P4 11 30m Trad Up a short face to an arête then follow a large crack diagonally up and right. P5 15 40m Trad Climb the shallow and exposed rightward-trending corner. P6 11 35m Trad Up a shallow, cracked groove then follow the prow to topout on a flat ledge with fantastic views of the valley and peaks above the Grand Plateau.
	North West Ridge, 2-	2-	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 2- From the Reay Valley head up couloirs onto the upper North West Ridge then on to the summit.
6.05	6.05North East Ridge, II,3+,13	II,3+,13	0m	0
An adventurous climb. From Reay Col, traverse a 2km ridge of jumbled rock with steps becoming increasingly harder. From a sharp notch just north of the summit, ascend a final face of three pitches (crux) to the summit. P1 13 Alpine (Commitment) II Alpine (Technical) 3+
6.04	6.04South East Face, II,4	II,4	0m	0
From the Burnett Glacier, ascend the prominent rock rib leading to the summit. P1 Alpine (Commitment) II Alpine (Technical) 4
	South West Ridge, 2-	2-	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 2- Climb to summit between Mts Malcher and Johnson, then climb along the undulating ridge to summit.
	West Face, 2	2	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 2 As for the Dorothy Glacier Route, but before the Dorothy Glacier is reached head straight up good, fairly easy rock to the summit.
	Dorothy Glacier Route, 2-	2-	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 2- From the moraine hollow south of the Dorothy Stream, gain height, climbing past a waterfall, and traverse across onto the Dorothy Glacier. Ascend to col and up the North West Ridge.

Comments

ndouglas

Just added "So Called Arthur King" on one of the red rock pillars of the lower Northwest Ridge of Johnson above the Reay Valley. Plenty more scope for new routes on the other pillars.

Fri, 27/02/2015 - 08:46 Permalink

This place appears in

Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018

Buy this guidebook

Attribution

ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)

UUID

c00db3ab-639f-4499-8ddf-62488ffe8e06