Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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5.81 | 5.81North Ridge, III,2+ | III,2+ | 0m | ||||
This is the most straightforward route on Mt Hamilton. From the Bonney Glacier, climb snowslopes to a prominent col on the north ridge near Pt 2633m. Then either ascend the rock ridge, the snow gully on the left, or further left to the north-east ridge, which is a narrow affair that gradually broadens. These routes converge about 200m north of the summit.
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5.82 | 5.82West Flank, IV,3+ | IV,3+ | 0m | ||||
From above the lower icefall in the Bonney Glacier, ascend the obvious gut in the West Flank (the face left of the major central gully). At the headwall of the gut, break left to the upper snow slope, then join the top of the North Ridge. The climbing was on a mix of snow and rock during the first ascent.
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5.83 | 5.83West Wall, IV,4+,15 | IV,4+,15 | 500m | ||||
Begins about 80m right (south) of the base of the major gully. Climb up for three pitches (crux) and then head left on a rising traverse to reach a rib of good rock in the middle of the face. Climb this, then:
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South West Ridge, IV,2+ | IV,2+ | 0m | |||||
Usually descended in conjunction with a climb of the North East Ridge of Malte Brun. The ridge is relatively straightforward, but becomes rotten near the Hamilton-Malte Brun col. There is also a direct route onto the col, which ascends a narrow couloir from the Bonney Glacier.
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6.21 | 6.21South East Arête, V,3+ | V,3+ | 0m | ||||
A rarely climbed but beautiful line. From the Murchison Valley floor, ascend the ridge between the Baker and Wheeler Glaciers onto a subsidiary peak, then up the snow arête to an ice bulge. The shape of the bulge, and its difficulty, changes over time. As at 2018, icecliff cut off the route, but the face to the left may offer a feasible route. After negotiating the bulge, continue up the face to the summit. Probably best in early summer.
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