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Classen Saddle

Type
Altitude
2179m
Part of

The main route between the Godley and Murchison valleys. Thomas Brodrick and his survey party were the first to climb to Classen Saddle in December 1890. The first crossing was by Peter Graham, J P Murphy and G Rose in April 1906.

Image
Lat/lon
-43.50083842,170.40737473, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX16 904 803
Approach

The crossing is generally straightforward (grade II, 2).
From the Murchison: If heading from Tasman Saddle, the shelf below Brodrick can be used, passing between Pt 2286m and Pt 2225m (route 6.39(i) on topo).
Otherwise, ascend from the true left of the Murchison directly opposite the north-east spur of Mt Cooper (route 6.39(ii) on topo).
To access the Classen Glacier, do not cross Classen Saddle itself, as this leads to an icefall. Instead, traverse south-east to the col at 2178m (grid ref BX16 912 798) at the top of a tributary to the Classen Glacier. Descend this to gain the glacier below.

From Classen Glacier: The Classen icefall directly below the saddle is usually impassable in summer, but the 2178m pass 1km southeast of Classen Saddle provides a good alternative crossing point.
From the lower Classen Glacier, travel up near the bend in the glacier using the true right edge, then climb up moderately steep snow slopes of a tributary glacier to gain the 2178m pass. If heading for Murchison Hut, descend south-west to reach the Murchison Glacier. If heading for Tasman Saddle, traverse to Classen Saddle then head south-west between Pt 2225m and Pt 2286m, and follow a snow shelf onto the upper Murchison.

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Comments
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
UUID
 
9a8aa73f-9c42-4ba6-8142-ddff78ba97fe