Classen Saddle

Type

Altitude

2179m

Part of

Thomas Brodrick and his survey party were the first to climb to Classen Saddle in December 1890. The first crossing was by Peter Graham, J P Murphy and G Rose in April 1906.

Classen Saddle and the upper Murchison Glacier

Lat/lon

-43.50083842,170.40737473, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BX16 904 803

Approach

From the Murchison: Straightforward (grade II, 2). If heading from Tasman Saddle, the shelf below Brodrick can be used, passing between Pt 2286m and Pt 2225m (6.39(i) on topo).
Otherwise, ascend from the true left of the Murchison directly opposite the north-east spur of Mt Cooper (6.39(ii) on topo).
To access the Classen Glacier, do not cross Classen Saddle itself, as this leads to an icefall. Instead, traverse south-east to the col at 2178m (grid ref BX16 912 798) at the top of a tributary to the Classen Glacier. Descend this to gain the glacier below.

Accessed from

Classen Glacier

Murchison Glacier

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