Malte Brun

Descend the South West Ridge of Mt Hamilton to a narrow rubbly notch (the Hamilton-Malte Brun col). Alternatively, ascend directly to the col via a narrow couloir from the Bonney Glacier. From the col, climb up a steep slab for 100m, then on up the ridge, which rises in a series of short steps of good rock.

Up prominent a rock rib to the right of the gully on the north face from the Bonney Glacier, 15-20 pitches. The first two thirds of the route is on fantastic rock. The last third is quite chossy. The first ascent was done with bivvy gear and the team descended the Bonney Rib.

This climb is a variation on Multi Sport and shares the same first 7 pitches. The climb is 16 full pitches at which point the route meets the North East Ridge at 3000m. From here to the summit a lot of chossy Jenga tower ridge line traversing is required. The first ascent was done with bivvy gear and descent was down the Bonney Rib.

From the lower Bonney Glacier, ascend the ribs and slabs of good rock between the North East and North Ridges. There’s plenty of room for variations.

Similar in difficulty to the Bonney Rib—combining these routes would make an excellent traverse of Malte Brun. Most parties begin from the Bonney Glacier just above the upper icefall, but there is wide scope for variations. The first 25m involves delicate climbing on rounded holds, where the glacier has retreated in recent years. Above this the rock is good and the holds more positive (sustained climbing), with a short cheval section higher up. Highly recommended.

The scene of Tom Fyfe’s remarkable 1894 solo climb. Fyfe’s route ascends to the left of a shallow couloir in the centre of the face. Other routes ascend to the right of the couloir while some variations keep closer to the North Ridge. Sustained climbing on generally good rock.

From the névé of the Bonney Glacier, ascend the prominent snow and ice couloir to within 200m of the summit. Not recommended, especially in late summer, as some of the worst rock on Malte becomes exposed in the upper couloir. This is not the couloir famously glissaded by Fyfe, which is smaller and further left.

The Bonney Headwall is a good late season option for the West Ridge when access to the base of the Bonney Rib is cut off.
From the head of the Bonney Glacier, scramble up and left on slabs/snow for 100m. Pick a line up compact rock that steepens progressively to a crux before reaching a ledge (two or three pitches). Continue up another three or four pitches to the cheval, or follow the ledge to the right to meet the top of the Bonney Rib.

Highly recommended. Now that the Yak Route has become frequently difficult to access, the Bonney Rib is the best way to sample the delights of Malte Brun’s famous cheval – a spectacularly exposed and narrow section of solid red rock. Many parties start this climb from a good bivvy/camp spot on the col between the Bonney and Malte Brun Glaciers, below the prominent gendarmes at the base of the Bonney Rib.
From the Bonney névé, use snowfields to access the rib above the gendarmes, then climb good rock (crux) to join the West Ridge. Turn left and follow the ridge, which narrows until the cheval is reached. After negotiating the cheval, the ridge broadens and becomes slightly easier, but the rock quality deteriorates. The summit is another 200m higher and can take a surprisingly long time from the cheval.
This is now the standard descent route and most parties require a few abseils to return down the rib. On your way up make a note of where to turn off the ridge. Please take old tat from previous climbs with you on your way down – it’s unsightly and unsafe.
First ascent unknown.

An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at roughly 60m length on ascent. The route was first attempted up to pitch 4.5 in mountain boots in 2015, and retreat was due to lack of gear. The first complete ascent was done with rock shoes in optimal climbing conditions, switching to approach shoes at the apex of the West Ridge. BYO rap cord and expect to replace it completely.
Route photo taken from summit of Rumdoodle in February 2015 with slightly more snow on the route than on the first complete ascent.
Useful GPS waypoints, current in 2020 are:
The point to aim for when climbing the moraine wall (this will get you to the old Malte Brun hut site:
Lat: -43.54864
Long: 170.28069
NZTM 1380331 5174664
Elevation: 1640m

Top of the access gully:
Lat: -43.55025
Long:170.28311
Elev: 1828m

Bivvy site (there are many others):
Lat: -43.55298
Long: 170.28782
Elev: 2036m

This has long been a popular route, as it provided the least technical way to the upper West Ridge. However, over the last few years there has been rampant recession of the Malte Brun Glacier, which has exposed more difficult rock. By late summer there can also be sections of steep, hard, old basal ice that require good mountaineering skills to negotiate.
From the true left edge of the upper Malte Brun Glacier, negotiate one to two pitches of glacier-worn rock (crux), tend right up a ramp, then head up the line of least resistance to gain the West Ridge (a number of options exist). Follow the ridge to the top of the Bonney Rib, after which the ridge narrows until the cheval is reached. After negotiating the cheval, the ridge broadens and becomes slightly easier, but the rock quality deteriorates. The summit is another 200m higher and can take a surprisingly long time from the cheval.

A very long climb, recently made slightly more difficult due to rockfall. The lower ridge is straightforward, but some parties have opted to avoid it by sidling on scree on the north side of the ridge, climbing back up to regain the ridge at a col at 2250m. From there, follow the ridge on good rock. At one point, a large chunk of the ridge has fallen off, leaving a notch with a very steep, smooth pillar of rock on the uphill (eastern) side. From the notch, traverse horizontally on the left (north) side – about grade 12, but very exposed – to bypass the difficult rock, then climb up to regain the ridge. The ridge has some sustained sections of climbing before it eases off. Cross the cheval and continue another 200m higher to the summit.

A pillar on the north side of the lower west ridge provides excellent climbing.