Southern Faces: an introduction to rock climbing in Ōtepoti Dunedin is now available.
The main period of route development at Long Beach was in the early 1980s, when the adventure ethic was pre-eminent, and many routes from this era are sparsely bolted by today’s standards. Considerable ability, ingenuity and experience is needed to protect many climbs adequately using natural pro – sportclimbers beware! The easy cracks of the Pinnacle often offer only adequate protection in often friable rock.
You’ll need a comprehensive rack of CDs (including the smallest sizes) and wires (don’t forget the RPs). Double bolt belays service all Main Cliff climbs, and most of the Pinnacle.
To add to your recreational enjoyment, expect some long run-outs, friable, lichenous and sandy holds, loose blocks and great moves, occasionally even great climbs. In keeping with the sportclimbing revolution, later developed climbs are mostly well bolted. Chalk up, take a deep breath, check your runners and go for it!
Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity that always carries an element of risk. Dunedin crags are riskier that most. Without singling out any particular crag or sector, serious rock fall has occurred unexpectedly in the most unlikely places but no more so than at Long Beach. Most of the main cliff walls have bands of unstable rock that regularly shed missiles during high winds and following rainfall. Make wearing a helmet habitual and be aware that rock fall can occur on access and descent tracks. Your safety is entirely your responsibility. Only you can assess your ability to climb any particular route and its suitability for climbing.
From Dunedin, drive to Port Chalmers (12 km). Immediately after the 50 km speed limit sign, turn left up the hill for 300m (signposted to Purakaunui and Long Beach), then right to climb the hill past Scott’s Memorial. Follow the Purakaunui road and turn off right at 22 km to descend to the Long Beach township. Turn left at the domain, drive past the public toilets (there are no toilet facilities in the crag area) and park at the far end of the cricket field. Walk along the track for a couple of minutes; look to your left 30m before reaching the beach and you’ll see a large detached block with a compact, rectangular face. This is the Dragon’s Lair. Manhattan and Southern Walls are accessed up and behind this block. Areas and climbs are described from left to right.
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