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Vapour Wall

Type
Sector
Part of
Long Beach Wharewerawera

The line of cliffs that overlook the car park.

Walktime
10 mins
Approach

Walk along the track towards Long Beach from the car park to the first cluster of mature pines and macros (approx 100 metres). Turn sharp left and drop down into a bushy gully. Follow the pink tags through the bush until the track turns steeply uphill. Up the first fixed rope to a slip beneath the right hand pillar which towers above you. Traverse across the slip and into the bush on the far side until the second rope appears. Head steeply up through the trees to the track which runs along the base of the cliff.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
SW SWSnow White, 16 16 7
0

Scramble leftwards up a grassy ramp from the end of the narrow track that runs along the base of the wall. Two bolt runners along the way and up the crack in the white wall (crux). Once through the crux, angle leftwards.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 7
I IIce, 17 17 7
0

Leftwards up the grassy ramp passing 2 bolt runners then tackle the cruxy crack. Straight up slab above to a high belay.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 7
K KKrakatoa, 21 21 4
0

Formerly a prominent hand crack, it, along with the surrounding area, was swept away in a huge rockfall during a storm in 2022.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 4
  • Trad
BB BBBreaking Bad, 21 21 0m 7
1.02

The top half of this route was severely damaged in a rock fall in 2022, consequently all bolts were removed and the route abandoned.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 7
TF TFThe Fly, 19 19 8
1.02

Start up a crack line and up to a small rooflet. Move across right onto the steepening face. A fantastic sequence of holds up the wall to the top of the pillar before moving out left to the belay hidden in a groove.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 8
TS TSThe Spider, 17 17 9
1.02

Start off the top of twin boulders on the track. Layback the crack until over the bulge then follow the weakness to 'All the Rage' belay. Steep climbing on juggy holds and edges.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 9
M MAll the Rage, 17 17 8
1.02

Up the corner. Turn the roof leftwards and up the slabs on great rock.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 8
I IImmunity, 19 19 7
1.02

Up the right edge of the prominent pillar. Some of the holds in the middle section attract sand but persevere and the rewards will come on the vertical top section.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 7
R RRaupeka, 18 18 11
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 11

Begin as for 'Immunity', clipping the first bolt on that route before traversing along the narrow ledge and around the arete on to the face of the pillar.. Bridge the corner above and pull over the roof before moving out rightwards along a ledge and up onto the top of a block. Climb the wall right of the crack that splits the headwall and then drift left along a row of edges and up onto the 'Immunity' belay ledge.

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