On the back of success at Hidden Wall, Murray moved his sights along the cliff to less sheltered walls. The rock in this area is less steep than Hidden Wall, and offers both crack and face climbing. Some of the rock is really bad and some of it is really good - you will generally be able to tell which is which.
Approach: As for Hidden Wall. At the base of the cliff band, turn left rather than right. Follow the track to the top of the hill (2 minutes). Alternatively, you can approach by taking the track up the spur from the top of the sunny side of The Pinnacle until reaching a flat sandy bench. 'The Great Migration' is at the very left hand end of this bench. Helmets are essential in this area as breccia knobs on the wall above often release during windy or wet conditions - or just for no apparent reason!
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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TGM | TGMThe Great Migration, 23 | 23 | 0m | 6 | |||
Begin at the 'Seacliff' start and traverse left along the shelf to the first bolt. Up into a short corner then move across left until both feet are on a small ledge. From here you can either drop down slightly which gives you more of a chance for a rest (there's some great holds down there) or keep high and move straight into a sustained sequence of pockets and crimps to the cruxy bulge.
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Q | QQualia, 25 | 25 | 15m | 6 | |||
New route up at Avian Wall bolted with the guidance of Robert Chow. Start as for the great migration, at the 2nd bolt head up following the line of bolts. 1st crux can be made easier by veering a bit off to the left - however intended route is straight through the face.
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S | SSeacliff, 17 | 17 | 0m | 9 | |||
A tricky move to get established on the juggy wall. Up onto a ledge then bridge the corner, moving out onto the wall then back to the corner. Move across right to the belay ring.
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GA | GAGreat Ape, 18 | 18 | 0m | 7 | |||
Start by clipping the first two bolts of 'Seacliff' and then move across right onto the 'steeper than it looks' juggy wall and up the line.
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R | RRosella, 19 | 19 | 0m | 9 | |||
Start right of Seacliff by bouldering over the bulge (galv chain link) and onto the wall. Up right of the arete to the overhanging blocks above. Wild finish through the blocks!
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TGR | TGRThe Great Reset, 17 | 17 | 0m | 8 | |||
Clip the first two bolts of 'Phoenix Rising' then move across left and up onto a narrow ledge. Bridge the corner above, following a delightful line of jugs to the blocky roof. Steep, enjoyable climbing.
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PR | PRPhoenix Rising, 18 | 18 | 15m | 7 | |||
Starts about five metres to the right of the right facing corner which is 'Seacliff". Up over the knobby rock onto a shelf below a groove. Pull over onto the wall and up the juggy line directly above. Quite sustained and steeper than it first appears.
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FmP | FmPFly My Pretties, 20 | 20 | 0m | 6 | |||
Up onto the shelf then pull steeply up into the recess beneath an overhang. Now move left into the weakness and up to the roof. Turn the roof around right and up to the belay. |
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A | AAlbatross, 19 | 19 | 0m | 9 | |||
Marred by some inferior quality rock, this route none-the-less has some quality climbing on it - mostly on the upper section that is steep and compact. Resist the temptation to go too high in the mid section - there may still be some loose holds up there!!
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CaC | CaCClip and Collect, 20 | 20 | 0m | 11 | |||
Starts on the ledge behind the big macro. Climb up the rotten looking staircase corner that is solid enough. Up into the right hand corner on good holds and then traverse rightwards across the wall on positive pockets and generous crimps until a rockover move onto a big ledge. Now move up to the belay hidden around the corner.
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A | AAchicar, 24 | 24 | 0m | 10 | |||
A staunch, compelling and gently overhanging line beginning off the shelf behind the macro tree. Powerful crimps and layaways lead to the incipient groove in the centre of the wall. It doesn't let up until it eventually joins the last two bolts of 'Clip and Collect'. The name is Spanish for downsizing. This route has shed a few holds.
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T | TTyphoon, 17 | 17 | 0m | 8 | |||
Up the short wall and into the corner.
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P | PPetrelfied, 22 | 22 | 15m | 4 | |||
Mixed pro. Start 8m past the large macrocarpa at the top of the hill. Climb past a couple of bolts to a crack at the first roof. Follow up it through both roofs to a DBA anchor. Short but stout.
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G | GGivealittle, 26 | 26 | 12m | 7 | |||
Short stout sport route up steep corner immediately right of Petrelfied. Initially on flakey rock. Where it veers left into the hanging V corner splitting the prow, the climbing becomes much harder. Developed by Macfarlane/Judge.
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H | HHumanure, 23 | 23 | 0m | 8 | |||
Begin in the corner which is the start of 'Loose as a Goose' and after climbing for a couple of metres, break out onto the steep featured wall and up to a smooth face. Cruxy moves to a reachy deadpoint. Up the line. |
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CiB | CiBCut in Black, 20 | 20 | 0m | 8 | |||
Up the steep blocky wall and into the groove. Bridge this and then move around left onto the face and up.
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GG | GGGreat Gull, 20 | 20 | 22m | 6 | |||
Mixed pro. Begins 5m right of the macrocarpa at the top of the hill. Follow a shallow right facing corner/arete straight up and through a small roof, then up and right below larger roofs to DBA. John Hamilton helped develop this route.
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AV | AVAretic Vulture, 21 | 21 | 0m | 9 | |||
Scramble up onto the shelf below 'Great Gull' and move across right into a crack. Up to a rooflet and pull steeply onto the upper wall. Crimps and pockets to the belay. Great rock and awesome moves. The route has recently been extended a couple of more metres with a steep but juggy finish.
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G | GGivin, 17 | 17 | 0m | 10 | |||
Surmount the twin horizontal tree roots running along the base of the rock and onto the chunky, fused horizontal blocks. A thought provoking move over the bulge and into the hanging corner. Stem the corner until it steepens. Layback or hand jamb up the flake to the belay. In 2023 the lower blocks dropped out of the wall due to root growth and following a cleanup, the lower section was rebolted on the right hand side of the new groove. The grade may be slightly harder now - maybe g18.
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G-LC | G-LCGivin-Layer Cake linkup, 16 | 16 | 0m | 11 | |||
Begin up 'Givin' to the mid ledge then finish up 'Layer Cake'.
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LC | LCLayer Cake, 19 | 19 | 0m | 12 | |||
Begin at the base of 'Givin' and then traverse right to the groove. Bridge up to the roof and squeeze through the narrow section and up onto a good ledge. Follow the line of bolts up an airy wall out right on some great holds. You can climb 'Givin' to the mid-height ledge then join this route at a consistent grade 16.
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PO | POPecking Order, 17 | 17 | 0m | 10 | |||
Begin as for 'Layer Cake' but traverse right along a horizontal crackline after the second bolt and up onto a ledge at the base of a steep groove. Bridge up the groove and over a bulge onto a second ledge. Up then right to the anchor on a rock bulging out overhead.
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LD-PO | LD-POLiving Dinosaurs-Pecking Order linkup, 17 | 17 | 0m | 10 | |||
Traverse across the start of Living Dinosaurs and just before reaching the belay, head straight up the arete over some big blocks. Continue straight up until joining Pecking Order at the last two bolts.
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LD | LDLiving Dinosaurs, 17 | 17 | 0m | 7 | |||
Start at the base of 'Givin' and traverse right across two blunt pillars and onto a belay ledge. A tricky move getting around the second pillar.
Bridge up the corner to a roof and traverse across left to a ledge. Layback up a groove to the belay high in the corner up right. |
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LD-J | LD-JLiving Dinosaurs-Jetpack linkup, 19 | 19 | 0m | 10 | |||
From the first pitch belay of 'Living Dinosaur', head right up the start of the second pitch clipping a couple of bolts before joining the top section of 'Jetpack'.
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J | JJetpack, 18 | 18 | 0m | 10 | |||
From the first pitch belay of 'Living Dinosaurs', head up the ramp that gradually steepens to vertical. Follow the ramp all the way to the overhang. An airy climb with huge exposure. You will need to lower off and have the second clean the draws. The top of the route overhangs the base by about five metres.
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ANZ | ANZAurora Novae Zealandiae, 19 | 19 | 0m | 10 | |||
From the Living Dinosaur belay, traverse down and into the corner and bridge up to the top of it. Move right and out onto the hanging wall on some big positive holds. Eventually you will reach a hanging corner system in the centre of the wall. Bridge up this to the belay ring under the roof. A very steep but positive route on solid rock.
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