Avian Wall

(22 routes)

On the back of success at Hidden Wall, Murray moved his sights along the cliff to less sheltered walls. The rock in this area is less steep than Hidden Wall, and offers both crack and face climbing. Some of the rock is really bad and some of it is really good - you will generally be able to tell which is which.
Approach: As for Hidden Wall. At the base of the cliff band, turn left rather than right. Follow the track to the top of the hill (2 minutes). Alternatively, you can approach by taking the track up the spur from the top of the sunny side of The Pinnacle until reaching a flat sandy bench. 'The Great Migration' is at the very left hand end of this bench.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
TGM The Great Migration 22
1.02
6bolts
Begin at the 'Seacliff' start but traverse left along the shelf to the first bolt. Up into a short corner then move across left until both feet are on a small ledge. From here you can either drop down slightly which gives you more of a chance for a rest or keep high and move straight into a sustained sequence of pockets and crimps to the cruxy bulge.
Steve Carr 2021 FFA
S Seacliff 17
0
9bolts
A tricky move to get established on the juggy wall. Up onto a ledge then bridge the corner, moving out onto the wall then back to the corner. Move across right to the belay ring.
Murray Judge 2020
GA Great Ape 17
1.02
7bolts
Start by clipping the first two bolts of 'Seacliff' and then move across right onto the juggy wall and up the line.
Geoff Williamson 2021 FFA
WfB Waiting for Buller 17
1.02
7bolts
Clip the first two bolts of 'Phoenix Rising' then move across left and up onto a narrow ledge. Bridge the corner and then move right and up a continuous line of jugs to the blocky roof. Steep, enjoyable climbing.
Dave Brash 2021 FFA
PR Phoenix Rising 18 15m
1.02
7bolts
Starts about five metres to the right of the right facing corner which is 'Seacliff". Up over the knobbly rock onto a shelf below a groove. Pull over onto the wall above and cruise up the juggy line directly above.
Steve Carr 2021 FFA
FmP Fly My Pretties 20
0
6bolts
Up onto the shelf then pull steeply up into the recess beneath an overhang. Move left into the weakness and up to the roof. Slip around to the right and up to the belay.
Steve Carr 2021 FFA
A Albatross
0
Murray Judge 2021 FFA
CaC Clip and Collect 20
0
11bolts
Starts on the ledge behind the big macro. Up into a rotten looking staircase corner that is solid enough. Up to the top of the right hand corner on good holds and then rightwards across the wall on positive pockets and generous crimps until a rockover move onto a big ledge. Now move up to the belay hidden around the corner.
Steve Carr 2021 FFA
T Typhoon 17
0
8bolts
Up the short wall and into the corner.
Murray Judge 2019
P Petrelfied 22 15m
0
4bolts wire representing trad
Mixed pro. Start 8m past the large macrocarpa at the top of the hill. Climb past a couple of bolts to a crack at the first roof. Follow up it through both roofs to a DBA anchor. Short but stout. Camalots .4 - 1 (optional second hand-sized cam).
Ruari Macfarlane, Murray Judge, Dec 2019
LA Little Auk 25 12m
0
7bolts
Short stout sport route up steep corner immediately right of Petrelfied. Initially on flakey rock. Where it veers left into the hanging V corner splitting the prow, both the rock and the climbing become much harder.. Developed by Macfarlane/Judge. Open project, grade unknown
H Humanure 23
0
8bolts
Begin in the corner which is the start of 'Loose as a Goose' and after climbing for a couple of metres, break out onto the steep featured wall and up to a smooth face. Cruxy moves to a reachy deadpoint. Up the line.
Matias Lotitto 2021 FA
CiB Cut in Black 20
0
8bolts
Up the steep blocky wall and into the groove. Bridge this and then move around left onto the face and up.
Matias Lotitto 2021 FA
GG Great Gull 20 22m
0
6bolts wire representing trad 1
Mixed pro. Begins 5m right of the macrocarpa at the top of the hill. Follow a shallow right facing corner/arete straight up and through a small roof, then up and right below larger roofs to DBA. John Hamilton helped develop this route. Cams from tips to hands (.2 - 1), doubles .75, a couple of mid-size nuts.
Ruari Macfarlane, Murray Judge, Dec 2019
AV Aretic Vulture 21
2.01
9bolts
Scramble up onto the shelf below 'Great Gull' and move across right into a crack. Up to a rooflet and pull steeply onto the upper wall. Crimps and pockets to the belay. Great rock and awesome moves. The route has recently been extended a couple of more metres with a steep but juggy finish.
Steve Carr 2020 FFA
G Givin 16
2.01
8bolts
Surmount the twin horizontal tree roots running along the base of the rock and onto the fused horizontal blocks. A thought provoking move over the bulge and into the hanging corner. Stem the corner until it steepens to the belay out on the arete.
Barry Smith, 2020 FFA
G-LC Givin-Layer Cake linkup 16
1.02
11bolts
Begin up 'Givin' to the mid ledge then finish up 'Layer Cake'.
Steve Carr 2021 FFA
LC Layer Cake 19
1.02
12bolts
Begin at the base of 'Givin' and then traverse right to the groove. Bridge up to the roof and squeeze through the narrow section and up onto a good ledge. Follow the line of bolts up an airy wall out right on some great holds. You can climb 'Givin' to the mid-height ledge then join this route at a consistent grade 16.
Steve Carr 2021 FFA
PO Pecking Order 17
1.02
10bolts
Begin as for 'Layer Cake' but traverse right along a horizontal crackline after the second bolt and up onto a ledge at the base of a steep groove. Bridge up the groove and over a bulge onto a second ledge. Up and right to the anchor on a rock bulging out overhead.
Steve Carr 2021 FFA
LD Living Dinosaurs 17,16
1.02
11bolts
Start at the base of 'Givin' and traverse right across two blunt pillars and onto a belay ledge. A tricky move getting around the second pillar.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1170m4No
 

Start at the base of 'Givin' and traverse right across two blunt pillars and onto a belay ledge. A tricky move getting around the second pillar.

2160m7No
 

Bridge up the corner to a roof and traverse across left to a ledge. Layback up a groove to the belay.

Steve Carr, Dave Brash 2021 FFA
LD-J Living Dinosaurs-Jetpack linkup 19
1.02
10bolts
From the first pitch belay of 'Living Dinosaur', head right up the start of the second pitch clipping a couple of bolts before joining the top section of 'Jetpack'.
Steve Carr, Dave Brash, Geoff Williamson, Bob Chow 2021 FFA
J Jetpack 19
1.02
13bolts
From the first pitch belay of 'Ancient Dinosaur', traverse down and around into an overhanging corner on great rock. Bridge up the corner and onto the sloping ramp. Follow the ramp all the way to the overhang. An airy climb with huge exposure. You will need to lower off and have the second clean the draws. The top of the route overhangs the base by about five metres.
Steve Carr, Dave Brash, Geoff Williamson 2021 FFA
UUID: 
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