Place info

Manhattan/Southern Wall

(13 routes)

This was the most recently developed area at Long Beach.

For years bored climbers have stood and stared at the cliffs at the southern end of Long Beach wondering if there was anything worth climbing there and eagerly desiring new routes to throw themselves at. Several people have even ventured through the stinging nettle undergrowth along the base of the cliff only to be put off by seemingly short routes or the unclimbable 5m high dirt base guarding the best looking rock. However, eventually the cliff was rappelled from above and after considerable cleaning (including levering off loose rock above the routes) Mike Simpson bolted several routes in 1998-1999. Development began again in earnest in 2017 once a via ferrata was established, opening up some phenominal routes on great rock with excellent exposure. A major downside is that the area suffers from water seepage following heavy rainfalls. Although often dry in winter it is an excellent summer area where you can waste away the hours working on some of the harder lines.

  • 5 min

    Walk in

  • 15m

    Altitude

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
15m

This was the most recently developed area at Long Beach.

For years bored climbers have stood and stared at the cliffs at the southern end of Long Beach wondering if there was anything worth climbing there and eagerly desiring new routes to throw themselves at. Several people have even ventured through the stinging nettle undergrowth along the base of the cliff only to be put off by seemingly short routes or the unclimbable 5m high dirt base guarding the best looking rock. However, eventually the cliff was rappelled from above and after considerable cleaning (including levering off loose rock above the routes) Mike Simpson bolted several routes in 1998-1999. Development began again in earnest in 2017 once a via ferrata was established, opening up some phenominal routes on great rock with excellent exposure. A major downside is that the area suffers from water seepage following heavy rainfalls. Although often dry in winter it is an excellent summer area where you can waste away the hours working on some of the harder lines.

Access: 

The best way to the base of the routes is by a rough track beginning from the left hand side of Dragon's Lair and zig-zagging up and leftwards just below the cliff line. Eventually this track reaches the rock face where a via ferrata provides access to the left-most routes on the Manhattan Wall. A deviation along a chain out rightwards near the top of the via ferrata provides access to a further cluster of climbs on the right side of the wall.

Walk time: 
5 min
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1
25 ,18
3
26m
14X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
3
 

Can be climbed in two pitches. There is a ring belay on a spacious ledge a short distance below the top. Grade 18 slab climbing to the upper ring belay. Amazing sheets of solid rock yielding great holds, friction and moves.

  1. Up the via ferrata then traverse leftwards until reaching the chain. Pull along this to the second short chain to the ledge. Technical and powerful face climbing above then out right to the corner. Cruxy move straight up then traverse left onto a broad ledge. Now up the fractured wall to a spacious ledge with a ring belay.
  2. Delicate slab climbing up to the right and around the corner leftwards to the upper ring belay at the very top of the wall. Take care with the sharp edge when rappeling. 30 metres to the ground.

2018. FFA Steve Carr, Dave Brash

2
24
3
25m
15X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Up the via ferrata then traverse leftwards along the start of Rat Pack. Reach around to the chain and follow it to the MOAB belay and ledge at the bottom of a corner. Now up this for some technical wall climbing then slightly right into a waterworn groove. Up this then left across the wall on incuts to the far side. Now steeply up the line to the very top of the wall. Some sensational climbing.

Steve Carr

3
21
2.01
10X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Traverse leftwards from the via ferrata to the hanging pillar. Up this to some finger locks then head out onto the hanging slab which leads to a ring belay in the upper corner. Continue to the higher belay if desired. You will need to bring up the second to clean the pitch.

Steve Carr 2017

3a
20
2.01
1X bolts
  The back door to Rat Pack. Up Grand Central before traversing the wall leftwards into the upper section of Rat Pack. One bolt in the middle of the traverse.

Steve Carr

4
20
2.01
7X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Up the rungs to chain. Stretchy moves left to base of shallow corner and up to spacious ledge. Great rock, great moves.

Murray Judge 2017

5
19 ,16
1.02
9X bolts
2
 
  1. Climb the rungs then the finger crack above to a belay on the ledge.
  2. Step down and right around the arete and up the slab. 30m to ground.

Murray Judge 2017

6
20 ,19 ,
1.02
25m
13X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
 
  1. From the top of the via ferrata, move rightwards out onto the arete and up to the ring belay.
  2. Up the lichenous slab to a high belay with spectacular views.
  3. Project

Murray Judge 2018

7
24
2.01
9X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Up the via ferrata then rightwards along the chain to the ring belay under a small overhang. Easy and enjoyable bridging and face climbing up the lower section until some small crimps provide the sting near the top.

Steve Carr

8
20
1.02
20m
11X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Climb the via ferrata and take the righthand chain to the belay beneath the small overhang. 5 bolt runners will deliver you to the re-belay on the ledge. You can stop here or continue up the blocky arĂȘte to the top, clipping another 6 bolts along the way. 30 metre rappel to the ground. A further pitch remains above as a closed project.

Murray Judge

9
24
2.01
15m
10X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Pull the right-hand via ferrata then head up the lower section of Little Rocket Man. When you've reached the halfway ledge move the belay right a couple of metres. Head up and across into the corner and up to the cruxy, pinched-off top of the corner to a ring high and right. Belay here or continue out left and around the corner to Little Rocket Man's upper belay.

Steve Carr, Dave Brash 2018

21
1.02
20m
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  From the belay chain move L and up the small overhanging face (crux) to LH arete then up and L again to the chain anchor on the yellow coloured rock. Unclipping the first bolt (after clipping the second with a long draw) may be helpful to reduce rope drag.

Mike Simpson, 1999.

25
0
18m
  The line of bolts directly above the belay. Moving left at the top to the chain anchor. Fairly easy climbing with one hard move.

Mike Simpson, 2000.

27
0
18m
Natural gear required
  Project 18m 27ish Bolted line L of the belay directly up to the anchor chain. Medium wire before the first bolt.
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