This area has only recently been developed - circa 2017
For years bored climbers have stood and stared at the cliffs at the southern end of Long Beach wondering if there was anything worth climbing there and eagerly desiring new routes to throw themselves at. Several people have even ventured through the stinging nettle undergrowth along the base of the cliff only to be put off by seemingly short routes or the unclimbable 5m high dirt base guarding the best looking rock. However, eventually the right hand side of the cliff was rappelled from above and after considerable cleaning (including levering off loose rock above the routes) Mike Simpson bolted several routes in 1998-1999. Murray Judge and Steve Carr subsequently rappelled into the left hand side of the wall in 2017 and development began again in earnest once a via ferrata was established, opening up some phenomenal routes on great rock with excellent exposure. A major downside is that the area suffers from water seepage following heavy rainfalls. Although often dry in winter it is an excellent summer area where you can waste away the hours working on some of the harder lines.
The best way to the base of the routes is by a rough track beginning from the left hand side of Dragon's Lair and zig-zagging up and leftwards just below the cliff line. Eventually this track reaches the rock face where a via ferrata provides access to the central and left-most routes on the wall. A deviation along a chain and a couple of foot pegs out rightwards near the top of the via ferrata provides access to a further cluster of climbs on the right side of the wall.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Wall Street | 23 | 26m | 10 | ||
2 | Mother of all Bombs | 22 | 25m | 15 | ||
3 | Rat Pack | 21 | 10 | |||
3a | Rats Arse | 20 | 1 | |||
4 | Grand Central | 20 | 7 | |||
5 | Polaris | 19 | 5 | |||
6 | The Manhattan Project | 22 | 50m | 12 | ||
7 | Hells Kitchen | 22 | 9 | |||
8 | Little Rocket Man | 20 | 20m | 11 | ||
9 | The Trinity Test | 23 | 15m | 10 | ||
Millennium Hopes | 25 | 18m | ||||
Parousia | 21 | 20m | 2 | |||
Project | 27 | 18m |