Manhattan Wall

(13 routes)

This area has only recently been developed - circa 2017

For years bored climbers have stood and stared at the cliffs at the southern end of Long Beach wondering if there was anything worth climbing there and eagerly desiring new routes to throw themselves at. Several people have even ventured through the stinging nettle undergrowth along the base of the cliff only to be put off by seemingly short routes or the unclimbable 5m high dirt base guarding the best looking rock. However, eventually the right hand side of the cliff was rappelled from above and after considerable cleaning (including levering off loose rock above the routes) Mike Simpson bolted several routes in 1998-1999. Murray Judge and Steve Carr subsequently rapelled into the left hand side of the wall in 2017 and development began again in earnest once a via ferrata was established, opening up some phenominal routes on great rock with excellent exposure. A major downside is that the area suffers from water seepage following heavy rainfalls. Although often dry in winter it is an excellent summer area where you can waste away the hours working on some of the harder lines.

Altitude: 
15m
Type: 
Wall
Walk time: 
5 min
Access: 

The best way to the base of the routes is by a rough track beginning from the left hand side of Dragon's Lair and zig-zagging up and leftwards just below the cliff line. Eventually this track reaches the rock face where a via ferrata provides access to the central and left-most routes on the wall. A deviation along a chain and a couple of foot pegs out rightwards near the top of the via ferrata provides access to a further cluster of climbs on the right side of the wall.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Wall Street 23,18 26m
3
14bolts 3
Can be climbed in two pitches. There is a ring belay on a spacious ledge a short distance below the top. Grade 18 slab climbing to the upper ring belay. Amazing sheets of solid rock yielding great holds, friction and moves.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12318m10No
 

Up the via ferrata then traverse leftwards (around grade 18/19) until reaching the chain. Pull along this to the second short chain to the ledge. Technical and powerful face climbing above then out right to the corner. Cruxy move straight up then traverse left onto a broad ledge. Now up the fractured wall to a spacious ledge with a ring belay.

2188m4No
 

Move across to the corner and bridge up to the slab. Delicate moves across to the far side then move back left and up the ramp to the upper ring belay at the very top of the wall. Take care with the sharp edge when rappeling. 30 metres to the ground.

Steve Carr FA 2018
2 Mother of all Bombs 22 25m
3
15bolts 2
Up the via ferrata then traverse leftwards along the start of Rat Pack. Reach around to the chain and follow it to the MOAB belay and ledge at the bottom of a corner. Up this for some technical wall climbing which leads rightwards into a waterworn groove. At the top of the groove, make an unlikely traverse left across the wall on incuts to the far side. Now steeply up the line to the very top of the wall. Alternatively you can climb Rat Pack and abseil down to the starting ledge on MOAB. Some sensational climbing. Take a couple of slings to reduce rope drag.
Steve Carr 2018
3 Rat Pack 21
2.01
10bolts
Traverse leftwards to a small hanging pillar via some balancey and tenuous moves. Up the pillar to a glue-reinforced flake with a finger lock above then head out onto the hanging slab. Up and rightwards, keeping close to the corner which leads to a ring belay. Continue to the higher belay if desired. You will need to bring up your partner to clean the pitch.
Steve Carr 2017
3a Rats Arse 20
2.01
1bolts
The back door to Rat Pack. Up Grand Central before traversing the wall leftwards into the upper section of Rat Pack. One bolt in the middle of the traverse.
Steve Carr
4 Grand Central 20
2.01
7bolts
Up the rungs to chain. Stretchy moves left to base of a shallow corner. Up into a crack line and onwards to a spacious ledge. Great rock, great moves.
Murray Judge 2017
5 Polaris 19,16
1.02
9bolts 1
Climb the rungs then the finger crack above to a belay on the ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190m4No
 

Climb the rungs then the finger crack above to a belay on the ledge.

2160m5No
 

Step down and right around the arete and up the slab. 30m to ground.

Murray Judge 2017
6 The Manhattan Project 20,19,22 50m
1.02
25bolts 2
Arete, slab, wall. This route is just the bomb!
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12015m7No
 

From the top of the via ferrata, move up to the bolt and hand travere rightwards out onto the arete. Some thin balancey moves up the arete to the ring belay.

21910m6No
 

Up the lichenous slab to a high belay with spectacular views.

32225m12No
 

The third pitch takes steep rock to the curving overhang, swing left and onto the upper white wall to a belay in the alcove. This top pitch was rap-bolted from the pine trees by Murray Judge and John Hamilton.

Murray Judge 2018 (pitch 1 and 2), Shane France, Grant Piper 2020 (pitch 3).
7 Hells Kitchen 23
2.01
9bolts 3 2
Up the via ferrata then rightwards along the chain to the ring belay under a small overhang. Over the small overlap and into the spectacular corner. Easy and enjoyable bridging and face climbing up the lower section until some small crimps provide the sting near the top.
Steve Carr 2018
8 Little Rocket Man 20 20m
2.01
11bolts
Climb the via ferrata and take the righthand chain to the belay beneath the small overhang. 5 bolt runners will deliver you to the re-belay on the ledge. Best option is to clip the belay with a long sling and continue up the blocky arĂȘte to the top, clipping another 6 bolts along the way. 30 metre rappel to the ground.
Murray Judge 2018
9 The Trinity Test 24 15m
2.01
10bolts
Pull along the right-hand via ferrata then head up the lower section of Little Rocket Man. When you've reached the halfway ledge move the belay right a couple of metres to another set of rings. Head right across the stacked blocks and up into the corner. Exciting climbing to the cruxy, pinched-off top on great rock. Swing out right onto the face to a ring belay up high. Belay here or continue out left and around the corner to Little Rocket Man's upper belay (about grade 18).
Steve Carr FA 2018
Millennium Hopes 25 18m
0
1
The line of bolts directly above the belay. Moving left at the top to the chain anchor. Fairly easy climbing with one hard move.
Mike Simpson, 2000.
Parousia 21 20m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
From the belay chain move L and up the small overhanging face (crux) to LH arete then up and L again to the chain anchor on the yellow coloured rock. Unclipping the first bolt (after clipping the second with a long draw) may be helpful to reduce rope drag.
Mike Simpson, 1999.
Project 27 18m
0
wire representing trad
Project 18m 27ish Bolted line L of the belay directly up to the anchor chain. Medium wire before the first bolt.
UUID: 
150cb7d4-cfda-4607-b440-61f8b42a3e07