Pinnacle - Lower Sunnyside

(20 routes)

Still the epicentre of Dunedin rockclimbing, a serendipitous combination of superb microclimate, white sand and easy access to consumer classics attracts hordes of top-ropers on a sunny weekend, while the rest of the crag can remain deserted.

DDB’s service nearly all the climbs. Usual access to the top is via the Overkill or Rhubarb gullies or the Seabird arete. If you solo these access routes to set up top - ropes, remember that these are all graded climbs on often less than perfect rock. The Sunnyside is continually shedding rock, especially from higher up - helmets are a very good idea when there is heavy traffic on the crag.

Altitude: 
1m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
8min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Peach 14 7m
0
wire representing trad
Through small roof and up dish.
2 Bandura 11 13m
1.02
wire representing trad
Excellent first climb. Steep climbing onto the slab at 5m, or come in from the R (easier), then up the groove to the DBB on the Seabird Arete. Adequate pro.
3 Bumpkin 13 16m
0
wire representing trad
Several alternate starts – the easiest and best protected traverses L from the Alesia Gully – to mantle onto the big ledge, then up the awkward corner crack.
4 Leap of Faith 20 18m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
Classic short problem up the hanging wall, retrobolted a few years after the first ascent. It sees few lead ascents since Steve removed the bolt in 1998. The crux can be protected adequately by RP’s, then with trepidation up to the horizontal crack (# 3 CD) and finish direct at the same grade. The bolt has now been replaced.
Steve Carr, 1984.
5 Alesia 14 18m
3
wire representing trad
The Beach’s cardinal beginner’s classic, and a rewarding lead on excellent pro (rare for the easier Long Beach climbs). The fun begins at the base of the chimney where the handholds seem to disappear just as the route steepens, then it’s all on – bridge or chimney your way to glory!
Sweet As 9 9m
0
5bolts
Just right of the start of Alesia is this ideal first lead or top rope climb.
6 Not 17 18m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Up the arete between Alesia and Rhubarb...There are now 2 bolts, but the anchor is a natural one.
Jo Kippax, 1990.
7 Rhubarb 12 18m
0
wire representing trad
Traverse R (crux) around the nose into the base of the big easy gully.
8 Anticlimax 14 18m
0
wire representing trad
Direct start to Rhubarb.
8.5 Maybe 20
2.01
4bolts 1
The overhanging arete to the left of Kindling Crack is an instant classic sport route. The major rockfall has opened up what was once bolted years ago and considered too contrived. Fantastic climbing up the overhanging arete leads to a rock over crux onto the arete at the 4th bolt. Then step right and mantle over to glory and the double bolt belay. From here you can please yourself by rapping off, continuing up left into Watching the Defectives, or continue up right past a piton and some pro to the next double bolt anchor. There is no excuse for top roping this one, give it a go on lead, you can see the bolts are close together...
Dave Brash, 2009
9 Kennedy’s Crack 17 8m
0
wire representing trad
Kennedy in fact has never climbed it! The legend arose in 1969 while Laurie was overseas for 2 years. No one could ‘repeat’ this fearsome off-width with their new PA’s, and ascribed his ‘success’ to the wide stiff alpine boots which climbers had previously worn. On returning to Dunedin in 1971, Laurie was able to set the record straight and provide the incentive for an eventual real first ascent. Definitely out of fashion - it’s seldom even top-roped these days but should be part of every climber’s apprenticeship. Adequate pro
Calum Hudson, 1971.
10 Falling Star 21 9m
0
wire representing trad
For four years, the hardest climb at the beach. The crack curving up R from Kennedy’s. Adequate pro.
Murray Judge, 1976.
11 Watching the Defectives 23 13m
0
4bolts wire representing trad
Al’s failure to finish the route direct is enshrined in the blob of Araldite above the last bolt, where he attempted to glue on a hold. Jodie Apiata claimed the first ascent of the direct finish 2 years later thinking Al had finished L into Kennedy’s Crack, but Al is sure he originally finished direct, despite the lack of adhesion of his new hold.
Al Mark, 1986.
12 Kindling Crack (a.k.a. Cunninghame’s Crack) 20 20m
2.01
wire representing trad
The description of the former route :'Redolent with history and adrenaline. Scene of countless epic struggles (and screamers), where the perfect handcrack widens to off-width. The traditional finish is out R, but for a three star combination continue up the layback crack, into the alcove to finish as for Flight of the Chalkbag. Good pro.' A major rockfall in 2009 has significantly changed this route. It is still a similar difficulty, still a classic, and the old description still more or less stands, except the 'handcrack into off width' is now a layback into a hand jam.
Bob Cunninghame, 1969. Soloed by Bill Denz, 1971.
13 Flight of the Chalkbag 20 9m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
Excellent direct finish to Kindling Crack. Incredibly, Jo Kippax fell mantling into the cave, ripped his two pieces of pro, cratered into the sand - and walked away uninjured. From the cave reach up high and L to blindly clip the bolt, then swing out onto the Defectives Wall to dyno for the jug.
Jeremy Strang, 1987.
14 Horace Has a Bricky Hiccup 22 24m
0
4bolts 1 wire representing trad
Overhanging stepped arete L of Surreptitious. Ape factor an advantage if you don’t want to cheat and move R into Surreptitious at first overlap. Contrived - a bit close to Surreptitious
Jeremy Strang, 1988.
15 Surreptitious 18 24m
2.01
4bolts
A strenuous start up the overhang. Once established in the layback crack, relax and clip the bolts. Nice climbing follows up the pockets and jugs to the 4th bolt. Originally, here you bridged up to glory. But since the major rockfall, you have two choices, rock over out right into Crapulence and then back left (easy) or, finish up the now desperate direct boulder problem. Double bolt anchor on the ledge at 2/3 height.
Andy Milne, 1987
16 Crapulence 16 24m
0
wire representing trad
The excellent strenuous boulder problem crux into the easy manky gully is poorly protected.
17 Canoeing Down Everest 21 8m
0
wire representing trad
Pumpy jam crack through the bulge. Scramble up Crapulence gully, or continue up Naked Doom - this combination is worth a star.
Rick McGregor, 1984.
18 Naked Doom 20 18m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
The arete R of Crapulence gully has exciting, exposed climbing. Now with a retrobolt, the top section still warrants a great deal of respect, protected by marginal small wires.
Graham Love, 1984.
UUID: 
59db6a1b-031e-4fbd-84ab-80c83b63a75c

Comments

5.5 Sweet As 9 9m 5 bolts

Just right of the start of Aliesha is this ideal first lead or top rope climb.