The Caves

(25 routes)

The climbs around and above the caves to the right of the North Buttress, extending all the way around to the sea.

Altitude: 
3m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
CP Cave Party 17
0
5bolts
Begin in the left hand corner. Up the brown stone staircase to a high first bolt then move right onto the wall. Straight up to a belay in the cave.
Steve Carr 2022 FFA
1 Concrete Thinker 17
0
4bolts
Straight up the wall.
Steve Carr, 2009
2 The Levellers 17
0
4bolts
Straight up wall then veer into the corner and up to the anchors.
Shem Smith, 2009 - equipped by Steve Carr
3 Kiloton 17
0
4bolts
Up into the corner then veer rightwards near the top.
Steve Carr, 2009
4 Bum Plod 18
1.02
3bolts
Slightly tricky bouldering to the first bolt. Pretty big jugs the whole way after that up over the overhang.
Steve Carr, 2009
5 Bowels of Mercy 20
2.01
3bolts
Start bouldering down in the cave and stay left for the best challenge.
Steve Carr, 2009
6 Purple Hayes 18
1.02
3bolts
Up the arĂȘte immediately right of BoM.
Calum Hudson, 2010
7 Sandy Daze 17
1.02
3bolts
Cool moves past the 1st bolt.
Calum Hudson, Emily Harding, 2010 - equipped by Steve Carr
8 Bob Zimmerframe 14
0
3bolts
Right of the scoop, some trad gear down low and easy finish to anchors.
Calum Hudson, 2009
9 William Shatner Handbag 16
0
3bolts
Small overhang in this one.
Calum Hudson, 2009
10 Like it or Tlingit 14
0
3bolts
Boulder start and bulges, move left to chimney and up then left to anchors.
Calum Hudson, 2009
11 Magnet 20
1.02
3bolts
Starts bouldery and boldly up to the first bolt then into niche. Hang on to finish right.
Steve Carr, 2009
11a The Fridge Joke 20
1.02
3bolts
Bouldery start with cool bridging moves in the roof. Hang on to finish right.
Graham Pringle, 2009 - equipped by Steve Carr
12 Pamela Anderson 14
0
5bolts
Big "Jugs" up the face and edge. A nice, steep, juggy, beginners' lead.
Calum Hudson, 2010
13 El Zymer 23
2.01
4bolts
Very neat face moves and well protected crux.
Steve Carr, 2009
14 Flakey Cadburys 19
0
6bolts
Start up the right hand edge of the flat faced wall to a high pocket. Tricky moves to get established on the upper wall. Continue straight up the wall.
Calum Hudson, 2010
The Big Easy 17 10m
0
5bolts
Start up Flakey Cadbury to the first bolt then deviate right into a right facing corner. Curve back left for a tricky finish to the anchor.
Sam Henehan, 2019 - equipped by Steve Carr
The Overhangover 22 15m
0
5bolts
Pumpy jugs! Grade reflects a direct standing start directly below the first bolt, but high first bolt for your boulder start mixing & matching pleasure. Finesse your way over the overhangs, then move left of the corner (avoid the right side of outcrop) and up to the ledge. Finish at the same anchor as Cave Woute.
Eugene Yeo & Bob Chow, 2021
15 Cave Woute 20 15m
0
6bolts 2
Last cave right. Through the roof of the bouldering cave on surprisingly good rock. Fantastic moves.
Steve Carr, 2012
Chronos V11
0
Traverses the roof of the cave: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAnnK6rBK34
Chase Gatland, 2012
Light at the end of the Tunnel 16 9m
0
4bolts
Up the blocky corner to a steeper finish
John Hamilton, 2019
P Piranha 21
0
8bolts 2
Start under the left hand end of the last cave before the sea. Steeply up and around the bulge on some sharp holds and up the vertical featured wall above. Interesting holds and rock.
Bob Chow, 2022 - equipped by Steve Carr
BSP BS Pillar 21
0
6bolts
On the right side of the last cave before the water. Start in a left facing corner off the beach and up onto the top of the cracked block. Straight up the vertical pillar then across left into the dish.
Steve Carr, 2020
MA Matariki Arising 16
0
5bolts
Bridge the shallow corner to the ledges.
Rachael Brown 2022
RR Remuera Road 12
0
4bolts 3
Scramble along the rock at the tide mark until inside the cave. Start at the tongue of rock poking out on the left side of the knobby wall. Follow the bolts to the roof.
Steve Carr, 2022
Attribution: 
Calum Hudson & Shane Greene
UUID: 
56be9eb4-575e-4c1f-9485-c0b7c9177db9

Comments

A few loose nuts on the bolts here, needs some tightening.

Nice work Shane