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The Caves

Type
Sector
Altitude
3m
Part of
Long Beach Wharewerawera

The climbs around and above the caves to the right of the North Buttress, extending all the way around to the sea.

Aspect
East
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
CP CPCave Party, 17 17 0m 5
0

Begin in the left hand corner. Up the brown stone staircase to a high first bolt then move right onto the wall. Straight up to a belay in the cave.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 5
1 1Concrete Thinker, 17 17 0m 4
1.02
  • P1
  • 17
  • 4

Straight up the wall.

2 2The Levellers, 17 17 0m 4
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 4

Straight up wall then veer into the corner and up to the anchors.

3 3Kiloton, 17 17 0m 4
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 4

Up into the corner then veer rightwards near the top.

 Tziporela, 18 18 0m 4
0

Move right along the ledge from below 'Kiloton' and up over the bulge. Straight up the line and onto the sandy ledge. Continue above into the V corner.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 4
4 4Bum Plod, 18 18 0m 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 18
  • 3

Slightly tricky bouldering to the first bolt. Pretty big jugs the whole way after that up over the overhang.
5 5Bowels of Mercy, 20 20 0m 3
2.01
  • P1
  • 20
  • 3

Start bouldering down in the cave and stay left for the best challenge.

6 6Purple Hayes, 18 18 0m 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 18
  • 3

Up the arête immediately right of BoM.

7 7Sandy Daze, 17 17 0m 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 17
  • 3

Cool moves past the 1st bolt.
8 8Bob Zimmerframe, 14 14 0m 3
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • 3

Right of the scoop, some trad gear down low and easy finish to anchors.

9 9William Shatner Handbag, 16 16 0m 3
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • 3

Small overhang in this one.

10 10Like it or Tlingit, 14 14 0m 3
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • 3

Boulder start and bulges, move left to chimney and up then left to anchors.

11 11Magnet, 20 20 0m 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 20
  • 3

Starts bouldery and boldly up to the first bolt then into niche. Hang on to finish right.

11a 11aThe Fridge Joke, 20 20 0m 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 20
  • 3

Bouldery start with cool bridging moves in the roof. Hang on to finish right.

12 12Pamela Anderson, 14 14 0m 5
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • 5

Big "Jugs" up the face and edge. A nice, steep, juggy, beginners' lead.
13 13El Zymer, 23 23 0m 4
2.01
  • P1
  • 23
  • 4

Very neat face moves and well protected crux.

14 14Flakey Cadburys, 19 19 0m 6
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 6

Start up the right hand edge of the flat faced wall to a high pocket. Tricky moves to get established on the upper wall. Continue straight up the wall.

 The Big Easy, 17 17 10m 5
0

Start up Flakey Cadbury to the first bolt then deviate right into a right facing corner. Curve back left for a tricky finish to the anchor.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • 5
 The Overhangover, 22 22 15m 5
0
  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 5

Pumpy jugs! Grade reflects a direct standing start directly below the first bolt, but high first bolt for your boulder start mixing & matching pleasure. Finesse your way over the overhangs, then move left of the corner (avoid the right side of outcrop) and up to the ledge. Finish at the same anchor as Cave Woute.
15 15Cave Woute, 20 20 15m 6
0
  • P1
  • 20
  • 15m
  • 6

Last cave right. Through the roof of the bouldering cave on surprisingly good rock. Fantastic moves. Easier if you traverse leftwards under the roof.
 Chronos, V11 V11 0m
0
  • P1
  • Hueco V11

Traverses the roof of the cave: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAnnK6rBK34
 Light at the end of the Tunnel, 16 16 9m 4
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • 9m
  • 4

Up the blocky corner to a steeper finish
P P Piranha, 21 21 0m 8
0

Start under the left hand end of the last cave before the sea. Steeply up and around the bulge on some sharp holds and up the vertical featured wall above. Interesting holds and rock.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 8
BSP BSPBS Pillar, 21 21 0m 6
0

On the right side of the last cave before the water. Start in a left facing corner off the beach and up onto the top of the cracked block. Straight up the vertical pillar then across left into the dish.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 6
MA MAMatariki Arising, 16 16 0m 5
0

Bridge the shallow corner to the ledges.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 5
RR RRRemuera Road, 12 12 0m 4
0

Scramble along the rock at the tide mark until inside the cave. Start at the tongue of rock poking out on the left side of the knobby wall. Follow the bolts to the roof.

  • P1
  • 12
  • 4

Images

Comments
robert.scott

A few loose nuts on the bolts here, needs some tightening.

Sun, 07/02/2016 - 14:03 Permalink
Attribution
Calum Hudson & Shane Greene
UUID
 
56be9eb4-575e-4c1f-9485-c0b7c9177db9