Teddy Bears Slab

Type

Part of

The wall facing Dragons' Lair. This cluster of routes is one of the best collections of climbs at Long Beach

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
P	PPicnic Time, 19	19	15m	8	1.02
From the alcove right of Dragons Lair: Start up the initial moves of 'La Grande Bouffe' however clip a separate line of bolts heading out leftwards. Up on good edges and into a crack that opens to a fist jamb. Continue out left to a ring belay around the arete. Cleaning revealed a rusty carrot bolt hidden under the creeper. Superb rock complimenting great moves. P1 19 15m 8
LGB	LGBLa Grande Bouffe, 18	18	15m	6	1.02
Start up 'Bulimics Picnic' and take a line leftwards. Up then back right to a bolt hidden around a corner. Straight up to a belay on the vegetated ledge above. P1 18 15m 6
BP	BPBulimics' Picnic, 18	18	15m	7	1.02
Up the centre of the slab on good edges to a crux mantle move onto a good ledge then out right and up onto the vegetated ledge to the belay. Excellent rock and moves throughout. (‘Three stars – one of the best climbs at Long Beach,’ says Calum Hudson). P1 18 15m 7
TBP	TBPTeddy Bears Picnic, 18	18	15m	7	1.02
Start as for 'Bulimics' Picnic' but move immediately right and into the shallow corner. At the top of the corner head out right onto the arete and steeply up into a V groove to the top and a ring belay on the point. Excellent rock and absorbing climbing. P1 18 15m 7
DitW	DitWDown in the Woods, 16	16	20m	6	1.02
P1 16 10m 6 Step across into the V groove and over the top to a ring belay out left. P2 16 10m 5 From the belay head left into the groove and then traverse the face rightwards to a belay right out on the point. A spectacular abseil to the ground.
T	TThudwah in a Big Wednesday Background, 16	16	8m	4	0
The lowest V groove. Cleaned and retrobolted in 2019. P1 16 8m 4
FL	FLFar Left, 18	18	12m	5	0
Step across onto the wall from one of the twin boulders and steeply up the groove to a tricky move onto the ledge. Easily up then right to the belay. P1 18 12m 5
	Sliding and Flying, 23	23	18m	2	0
P1 23 18m 2 Traverse the L wall above Thudwah, then over the bulge to 2 old belay bolts, or continue up the arete to join Teddy Bears Picnic. Two glued terrier bolts with hangers. Use with caution.
	Picnic Time, 19	19	18m	8	0
from the alcove right of Dragons Lair up and left on a series of horizontal breaks. Up the slanting seam then step around left onto the upper slab and belay P1 19 18m 8
	La Grande Bouffe, 18	18	20m	5	0
P1 18 20m 5 Trad On wall opposite Smug with Semen. Starts as for Bulimics Picnic and trends up and L, finishes up steep crack by the macrocarpa tree. The top can be protected by placing gear in the crack.
	Bulimic’s Picnic, 17	17	20m	4	1.02
P1 17 20m 4 Trad On wall opposite Smug with Semen. A grade underrepresented at Long Beach. From the top of the gully step R into the groove, then up past 2 bolts and out R of roof, then up more easily to Double Bolt Belay. Rebolted by Calum Hudson in 200: ‘Three stars – one of the best climbs at Long Beach,’ he said.
	Teddy Bears Picnic, 16	16	20m	4	0
P1 16 20m 4 Trad Ascends arete and groove immediately R of Bulimics Picnic, similar finish.
	Thudwah in a Big Wednesday Background, 16	16	8m	2	0
P1 16 8m 2 Trad 10 m to the R of the Dragon’s Lair gully is a short easy-angled corner with a steep base. This is - Crux before the bolt, then bridge up the corner. Simon is happy for anyone to re-equip this by lowering the first bolt and putting in a second to create a more pleasant and user-friendly route – it needs a good clean too!

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cbef4547-9460-4c9f-9784-999a5cc30865