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North Buttress

Type
Sector
Altitude
3m
Part of
Long Beach Wharewerawera

From the Pinnacle, walk northwest along the beach 200m to the 8m buttress which provides short, naturally protected climbs, most of which have been soloed over the years.

Walktime
15 min
Aspect
East
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1What's the Scoop?, 17 17 3
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 3

Head up to the horizontal cracks through the scoop and out right to the anchors. Still a bit sandy at the very top.

2 2Precipitation, 17 17 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 17
  • 2

Easy climbing to the blocky ledge to clip the 1st bolt. Balance to the 2nd and face climb to the anchors.

3 3The Pin Variant, 18 18 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 18
  • 3

Starts on Beewall and finishes up the face just right of precipitation. Don't get sucked over to precipitation because there is a cool sidepull to get up on the face. See Beewall for full description.

3a 3aThe Pin, 18 18 3
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 3

The Pin heads right after first bolt and awkward crux, then step delicately right and head up face.

4 4Cecile, 14 14 4
1.02
  • P1
  • 14
  • 4

Easy climbing through blocks to clip the 1st bolt. Grab the jugs and commit to leaning out and around to get to the 2nd bolt. Search out some more big jugginess to finish it off. Has had a 4th bolt added down low now that the sand has washed away making the first bolt miles off the deck.
5 5Wallace, 19 19 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 19
  • 3

Safe climbing through blocks to clip the 1st bolt. If you want to make it tricky head up to the bolt straight under the overhang.

6 6Black and Blue, 18 18
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

Up the blue black wall with lot's of potential gear. Head left to anchors.

7 7Cavernous, 17 17
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

Head up toward the cavernous crack and finish out left to anchors.

8 8Unnamed, 14 14 2
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • 2
  • Trad

Easy climbing through blocks to clip the 1st bolt. Grab the jugs and commit to leaning out and around to get to the 2nd bolt. Search out some more big jugness to finish it off.

9 9Veggie Patch, 14 14 3
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • 3

Stay left of the 1st bolt for an easy wander up the blocks, slightly harder to the right. Clip the second bolt and move up to the right of the veggie patch. Bit tricky over the veggie's but there is a nice fist jam awaiting up top to pull you through.

10 10Two Chins No Balls, 17 17 4
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 4

Straight up through the cavy upper bits.

12 12Grim Farry Tail, 17 17 4
1.02
  • P1
  • 17
  • 4

Head up the right fin. Spicier than it looks from the ground, potentially due to suspect rock. Should clean up well.

13 13City of Refuge, 18 18 20m 7
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 7

Begin in the corner and bridge up the blocks to the overhanging bulge. Someone has placed a false belay here but Calums original line tackles the bulge direct or on the right hand side.
14 14D.C.Gully, 5 5
0
  • P1
  • 5
  • Trad

Up the recessed slab starting immediately right of City of Refuge
15 15Bees Knees, 4 4 6
0
  • P1
  • 4
  • 6

Up the grey wall and through the weakness.
16 16Buttler, 9 9 3
0
  • P1
  • 9
  • 3

Up the grey wall and throught the weakness.
17 17Rare Earth, 19 19 15m 5
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 5

Through the overhangs on the left-hand side of the large dry tooling cave and up the breccia wall above.

Images

Comments
Attribution
Calum Hudson & Shane Greene Descriptions & Topos.
Route 13 picture modified from original at https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151416065715815
UUID
 
a1420a0b-9ef5-425e-b8c9-7baef766de20