North Buttress

(14 routes)

From the Pinnacle, walk northwest along the beach 200m to the 8m buttress which provides short, naturally protected climbs, most of which have been soloed over the years.

Altitude: 
3m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
15 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 What's the Scoop? 17
0
3bolts
Head up to the horizontal cracks through the scoop and out right to the anchors. Still a bit sandy at the very top.
Steve Carr, 1980 FFA
2 Precipitation 17
1.02
2bolts
Easy climbing to the blocky ledge to clip the 1st bolt. Balance to the 2nd and face climb to the anchors.
Steve Carr, 1980 FFA
3 The Pin 18
1.02
3bolts
Starts on Beewall and finishes up the face just right of precipitation. Don't get sucked over to precipitation because there is a cool sidepull to get up on the fce. See Beewall for full description.
Steve Carr, 1980 FFA
3a The Pin Variant 18
0
3bolts 1
The Pin Variant heads *right* after first bolt and awkward crux, then step delicately right and head up face.
Steve Carr, 1980 FFA
4 Cecile 14
1.02
4bolts
Easy climbing through blocks to clip the 1st bolt. Grab the jugs and commit to leaning out and around to get to the 2nd bolt. Search out some more big jugginess to finish it off. Has had a 4th bolt added down low now that the sand has washed away making the first bolt miles off the deck.
Emily Harding, 2010
5 Wallace 19
1.02
3bolts
Safe climbing through blocks to clip the 1st bolt. If you want to make it tricky head up to the bolt straight under the overhang.
Emily Harding, 2010
6 Black and Blue 18
0
wire representing trad
Up the blue black wall with lot's of potential gear. Head left to anchors.
7 Cavernous 17
0
wire representing trad
Head up toward the cavernous crack and finish out left to anchors.
8 Unnamed 14
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Easy climbing through blocks to clip the 1st bolt. Grab the jugs and commit to leaning out and around to get to the 2nd bolt. Search out some more big jugness to finish it off.
9 Veggie Patch 14
0
3bolts
Stay left of the 1st bolt for an easy wander up the blocks, slightly harder to the right. Clip the second bolt and move up to the right of the veggie patch. Bit tricky over the veggie's but there is a nice fist jam awaiting up top to pull you through.
Shane Greene, 2010
10 Two Chins No Balls 17
0
4bolts
Straight up through the cavy upper bits.
Calum Hudson, 2010
12 Grim Farry Tail 17
1.02
4bolts 1
Head up the right fin. Spicier than it looks from the ground, potentially due to suspect rock. Should clean up well.
Calum Hudson, 2010
13 City of Refuge 18 20m
0
7bolts
Right of "Seawall" in "Project Area": https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151416065715815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater
Calum Hudson, 2012.
14 Rare Earth 19 15m
0
5bolts 1
Through the overhangs on the left-hand side of the large dry tooling cave and up the breccia wall above.
Steve Carr, 2012
Attribution: 
Calum Hudson & Shane Greene Descriptions & Topos. Route 13 picture modified from original at https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151416065715815
UUID: 
a1420a0b-9ef5-425e-b8c9-7baef766de20

Comments

I updated some of these climbs that are sport routes, but were listed as natural pro, based on the original North Butress guide on the Dunedin Climbing Facebook Page that these were written up in: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150257339755815.371483.20806...