Good climbing in the Jumping Jellyfish area is often unfairly ignored due to its dark aspect. The remainder of the backside has little to recommend it. Bob Cunninghame and others ventured onto the backside in the 60’s to climb some of the lines. Bob writes, ‘…they were fairly awful – sandy and loose rock. Seem to remember protection was dubious or non existent!’ The first seven climbs are serviced by a DBB at the apex of the pinnacle, up and left of the manky gully, which sounds suspiciously similar to Bob’s description – don’t climb this!
Altitude:
1m
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
South
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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| 1 | Fundamental Blues | 18 | 20m |
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9 |
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Cleaned and retrobolted in 2021. Start up Drury Lane and traverse diagonally L on new bolts and up into the groove. Straight up the wall to a new belay on Tombstone Arete.
Craig Hilton, 1986.
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| 2 | Jumping Jellyfish | 19 | 19m |
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Up the flakes and thin cracks to handjam then step R into the prominent corner. The first ascent was carried out in sandshoes and without the benefit of the jam crack (later cleaned).
Murray Judge, 1976.
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| 3 | Drury Lane | 20 | 22m |
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Superb. Start up Jumping Jellyfish and climb into the cave. Cut loose on the hand traverse out to the L (2.5 friend in the break, well tested by Jeremy in a 12m screamer) to mantle and finish up the headwall.
Graham Love, 1985.
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| 4 | Love Don’t Live Here Anymore | 21 | 22m |
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3 |
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Incorporates the nice boulder problem start up the pocketed wall. Direct through overlap and to Jumping Jellyfish ledge, then diagonally out L to the arete past another bolt, and finish up Drury Lane.
Al Mark, 1986.
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| 5 | Cuttlefish | 21 | 8m |
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3 |
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Graded 19 in the 1987 handbook. Clip the bolt, then frantically hand traverse L until you can gain the Jumping Jellyfish ledge.
Al Mark, 1985.
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| 6 | The short crack | 15 |
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| 7 | Whiskey Train | 19 | 14m |
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The diagonal crack splits the L wall of the disintegrating block. Desperately mantle onto the ledge (it helps to be tall). Adequate pro.
Graham Love, 1984.
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| 8 | Blue Suede Shoes | 18 | 15m |
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Not too bad, surprisingly enough. The middle section is quite interesting and well protected. The crack R of crumbling gully.
Graham Love, 1984.
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| 9 | Floyd | 15 | 15m |
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5 |
2 | ||||
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Crack on L of Gauntlet wall. Recently cleaned and retrobolted from beach level. A ring belay has been placed at the top of Gauntlet so head right at the top of the crack.
Steve Philip 1984.
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| 10 | Gauntlet | 19 | 8m |
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The thin crack in the centre of the brown wall is virtually unprotectable.
Graham Love, 1983.
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| 11 | Pathology | 21 | 8m |
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Bulge to face to V corner, all in about 6m. Packs a lot of punch for a short climb – I actually like it. Possibly adequate pro - you be the judge.
Graham Love, 1983.
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| Orifice | 22 | 8m |
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1 |
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A contrived but hard little problem squeezed in between Pathology and Thunderbox past one old bolt .
Al Mark, 1984
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| 12 | Thunderbox | 19 | 8m |
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1 |
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Greasy layback crack to mantle, or ‘an interesting face climb’, claims Hudson. .
Calum Hudson, 1992.
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| 13 | Greenhorn | 22 | 7m |
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3 |
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Retrobolted in 2021. Overhanging wall. Nice rock.
Dave Wills, 1984.
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| 14 | Baked Beans | 15 | 7m |
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LH route inside chimney.
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| 15 | Squashed Banana | 15 | 7m |
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RH chimney route.
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| 16 | Sand Bird | 12 | 20m |
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Hardest at bottom. Easy access to top of pinnacle via seaward arete.
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UUID:
72108869-3ede-457b-83b1-42707f3b60ea