Pinnacle Backside

(17 routes)

Good climbing in the Jumping Jellyfish area is often unfairly ignored due to its dark aspect. The remainder of the backside has little to recommend it. Bob Cunninghame and others ventured onto the backside in the 60’s to climb some of the lines. Bob writes, ‘…they were fairly awful – sandy and loose rock. Seem to remember protection was dubious or non existent!’ The first seven climbs are serviced by a DBB at the apex of the pinnacle, up and left of the manky gully, which sounds suspiciously similar to Bob’s description – don’t climb this!

Altitude: 
1m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Fundamental Blues 18 20m
0
9bolts wire representing trad
Cleaned and retrobolted in 2021. Start up Drury Lane and traverse diagonally L on new bolts and up into the groove. Straight up the wall to a new belay on Tombstone Arete.
Craig Hilton, 1986.
2 Jumping Jellyfish 19 19m
2.01
wire representing trad
Up the flakes and thin cracks to handjam then step R into the prominent corner. The first ascent was carried out in sandshoes and without the benefit of the jam crack (later cleaned).
Murray Judge, 1976.
3 Drury Lane 20 22m
2.01
wire representing trad
Superb. Start up Jumping Jellyfish and climb into the cave. Cut loose on the hand traverse out to the L (2.5 friend in the break, well tested by Jeremy in a 12m screamer) to mantle and finish up the headwall.
Graham Love, 1985.
4 Love Don’t Live Here Anymore 21 22m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Incorporates the nice boulder problem start up the pocketed wall. Direct through overlap and to Jumping Jellyfish ledge, then diagonally out L to the arete past another bolt, and finish up Drury Lane.
Al Mark, 1986.
5 Cuttlefish 21 8m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Graded 19 in the 1987 handbook. Clip the bolt, then frantically hand traverse L until you can gain the Jumping Jellyfish ledge.
Al Mark, 1985.
6 The short crack 15
0
wire representing trad
7 Whiskey Train 19 14m
0
wire representing trad
The diagonal crack splits the L wall of the disintegrating block. Desperately mantle onto the ledge (it helps to be tall). Adequate pro.
Graham Love, 1984.
8 Blue Suede Shoes 18 15m
0
wire representing trad
Not too bad, surprisingly enough. The middle section is quite interesting and well protected. The crack R of crumbling gully.
Graham Love, 1984.
9 Floyd 15 15m
0
5bolts 2
Crack on L of Gauntlet wall. Recently cleaned and retrobolted from beach level. A ring belay has been placed at the top of Gauntlet so head right at the top of the crack.
Steve Philip 1984.
10 Gauntlet 19 8m
0
wire representing trad 2
The thin crack in the centre of the brown wall is virtually unprotectable.
Graham Love, 1983.
11 Pathology 21 8m
0
wire representing trad
Bulge to face to V corner, all in about 6m. Packs a lot of punch for a short climb – I actually like it. Possibly adequate pro - you be the judge.
Graham Love, 1983.
Orifice 22 8m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
A contrived but hard little problem squeezed in between Pathology and Thunderbox past one old bolt .
Al Mark, 1984
12 Thunderbox 19 8m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Greasy layback crack to mantle, or ‘an interesting face climb’, claims Hudson. .
Calum Hudson, 1992.
13 Greenhorn 22 7m
1.02
3bolts
Retrobolted in 2021. Overhanging wall. Nice rock.
Dave Wills, 1984.
14 Baked Beans 15 7m
0
wire representing trad
LH route inside chimney.
15 Squashed Banana 15 7m
0
wire representing trad
RH chimney route.
16 Sand Bird 12 20m
0
wire representing trad
Hardest at bottom. Easy access to top of pinnacle via seaward arete.
UUID: 
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