Pinnacle - Upper Sunnyside

(14 routes)

The small speckled hanging face further L is bordered by the upper Go crack on the R and the Yes corner on the L. The ledge from which you psych up for the Yes crux does not yet exist

Altitude: 
6m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
10min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
2 Ruminate 18 7m
0
wire representing trad
Corner, L to join Crapulence. Protection is illusory.
3 Testing Seams 13 7m
0
wire representing trad
Traverse from Yes to Crapulence along the obvious break.
4 Oui 20 18m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Classic variant to Yes. Start up Yes and follow the seam (2 bolts for pro) to a strenuous mantle. Finish up the Yes groove.
Greg Aimer, 1985.
5 Yes 18 18m
2.01
1bolts wire representing trad 1
A Sunnyside classic, if a little bit scary. Climb up L of the nose. Grovel onto it, then face moves off the ledge and out L (crux) and into the V corner, exiting L under the summit overhang. You’re looking at a potentially nasty fall on the crux moves, otherwise adequate pro.
6 Go 16 18m
0
wire representing trad
Up the corner crack immediately R of Yes, sharing the same start. Finish up the wide crack immediately L of Overkill gully.
7 Dying to get Down 18 5m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
The speckled face has an old bolt in the centre.
Jeremy Strang, 1987.
8 Hominoid 14 15m
0
wire representing trad
A couple of variant starts (direct is a boulder problem 16) to the R facing corner. Worth a star when you finish on the upper Go crack (same grade).
9 Myopia 14 7m
0
wire representing trad
Good little problem through the roof between Hominoid and Overkill.
10 Overkill 12 15m
0
wire representing trad
A tricky start traversing on the polished slab from the R, then crank into the big corner. Good pro once you are in the gully. Watch out for a pendulum at the start if you’re toproping this – a good spotter will do the trick.
11 Sticky Fingers 17 10m
1.02
wire representing trad
Traverse in from Overkill gully to nice slab climbing; a couple of very marginal RPs for pro. They would probably rip out so treat this as a solo.
12 Dicky Fingers 22 12m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
First bolt placed on the Sunnyside protects the sharp, crimpy direct start to Sticky Fingers. .
. Al Mark, 1986.
13 Astroboy V4 4m
0
Long Beach has its first V boulder grade! An interesting and worthwhile boulder problem on the large boulder below Dicky Fingers. Climb the LH side of the slightly overhanging face on good crimpers to an interesting top out.
Darren Hight, 1998
14 End Rib 16 8m
0
wire representing trad
Step off the balcony to the protectionless arete – was about grade 12 before some rocks were ‘persuaded’ off the first couple of moves many years ago.
Laurie Kennedy, 1969.
Scarab 14 9m
0
wire representing trad
The face round the corner, finishing on End Rib.
UUID: 
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