At the right hand end of Avian Wall there is a huge overhang. The Circus begins right of the overhang and is bounded by more overhangs further to the right. Access is up twin via ferratas consisting of stainless glued in pegs and runners to fixed chain belays. A short length of steel ladder on the left helps facilitate quick access to a belay. A belay seat is attached to the chain for comfort. The higher routes require two ropes for the abseil or alternatively, two abseils to the ground. The wall is deceptively overhanging so cleaning may be difficult if the second doesn't follow the route. The right via ferrata opens up a cluster of additional routes on excellent quality rock. A helmet is considered essential in this area as breccia knobs often release from the wall above during windy or wet conditions. During times of high humidity or in easterly fog, a lot of the rock develops a black, sweaty appearance and feel and becomes unclimbable, sometimes for days on end. A return to southerly weather patterns and a day of sunshine generally leads to favourable climbing conditions returning.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| T | TTrapeze, 18 | 18 | 25m | 9 |
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Up the via ferrata to the far left hand end. Up left into the corner. Continue up the big blocks to the diagonal crack and up left to the belay rings. A quality line - attracts dust but still enjoyable. A 60 metre rope will just reach the ground.
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| HaW | HaWHigh and Wired, 19 | 19 | 10m | 5 |
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From the upper Trapeze belay, continue up the wall above, first moving out left and up to a good hand jam. Then back right on pockets and edges to a small recessed ledge and then up the pocketed wall. Two rappels to the ground.
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| OL | OLOompa Loompa, 19 | 19 | 0m | 5 |
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From the end of the fixed access chains, head directly up the line. Over the bulge and follow the crack to the rings on the headwall.
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| TbtT | TbtTTiger by the Tail, 20 | 20 | 0m | 8 |
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From the fixed belay seat, move left along the chain and up into the layback corner. Onto a big ledge then up a second layback corner. The two stars are reserved for the first pitch only.
Move left from the belay and follow the bolts up into a recessed wall. Up this then out left to the belay beneath a big hole in the wall. Great exposed climbing but a bit dirty. . |
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| LT | LTLion Tamer, 21 | 21 | 0m | 17 |
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Begin immediately left of the belay seat and into the steep hand crack. From the ledge above, move under the blocks and into the hanging groove. Above the groove head directly up into the left facing corner and over onto the slab above. Now follow the line of bolts up the steep crack lines above, peppered with locks and pockets and onto a pillar with belay ring. Twin ropes or two raps to the ground.
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| Show Time, 20 | 20 | 0m | ||||
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| BoL | BoLBook of Life, 17 | 17 | 30m | 1 |
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Up the obvious open book corner above the right hand end of the fixed chain. Cams to #2 Camalot, maybe double up, plus a few medium to large wires. A steep, clean line.
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| WoD | WoDWall of Death, 24 | 24 | 0m | 14 |
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Climb two metres up Book of Life then traverse right along a horizontal break and around to the other side of the hanging pillar (fiddle around with a sling or back clean if you can so as to avoid any potential rope drag higher up). Shoot up the pillar like a rat up a drainpipe for a rest at the base of the flake. Finesse your way up the flake and out onto the hanging slab beneath the overhanging headwall. Follow the crack up the wall above, encountering exceptional finger locks then bomber pockets. A tricky move over the bulge to the final pocket and belay. A single 60m rope will just reach the ground.
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| TO | TOTicket Office, 20 | 20 | 0m | 6 |
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Up the right hand via ferrata to a chain belay in the corner (pulling up on the chain when the rungs finish). Move left and up from the belay to a horizontal break. Swing around into the corner and bridge up to the rings under the roof.
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| TFS | TFSThe Freak Show, 23 | 23 | 25m | 6 |
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Ascend the right hand via ferrata to a chain belay in a corner. Left off the belay and up into the v groove. Once above the groove, bridge the corner to twin horizontal holds. Reach high for a jug and move around to left face of the arete. Now, how to get to that chain? Great rock and moves all the way. |
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| CM | CMCircus Maximus, 23 | 23 | 0m | 6 |
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Head rightwards under the roof for 3 metres until the vertical crack appears. Technical moves over the bulge to a hand jamb then follow the crack all the way to the belay under the roof. Taping the right hand or using a jamming glove is recommended for some obligatory hand jambs. Absolute quality line on aesthetic rock.
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| TA | TAThe Acrobat, 20 | 20 | 0m | 6 |
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From the base of the corner at the top of the via ferrata, traverse rightwards along the line of the roof clipping three bolts along the way. Once you reach the vertical cracks, follow them to the belay up under the big roof. Take three long slings to protect the journey up the via ferrata. A difficult route to clean - lower to the ground and have your partner strip the pro on top rope.
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| TS | TSThe Salesman, 21 | 21 | 40m | 12 |
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From the chains at the base of the corner, traverse under the roofline as for The Acrobat but continue rightwards onto the brown wall, staying low to pick up a good pocket. Now head directly up to the roof above, making a cruxy move into the hanging corner. Time for a rest here before heading right and around into the next corner. Bridge across and up to a small belay ledge for two. Excellent quality rock and moves. Generally following easterly showers or in humid conditions, the rock turns black and stays damp for a few days.
From the chains at the top of the via ferrata, traverse under the roofline as for The Acrobat but continue rightwards onto the brown wall, staying low to pick up a good pocket. Now head directly up to the roof above, making a cruxy move into the hanging corner. Time for a rest before heading right and around into the next corner. Bridge across and up to a small belay ledge for two. Excellent quality rock and moves. Generally following easterly showers or in humid conditions, the rock turns black and sweats. It can stay damp for a few days until sunny weather arrives and dries it out again.
Straight up from the belay then move across the sandy ramp and onto the grey rock again. Up into the crack and layback the corner to and insane heel hook to get over the bulge on pocketed rock. |
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