The Circus

(8 routes)

At the right hand end of Avian Wall there is a huge overhang. The Circus begins right of the overhang and is bounded by more overhangs further to the right. Access is up stainless glued in pegs and runners to a fixed chain. A short length of steel ladder helps facilitate quick access to the belay. A belay seat is attached to the chain for a comfortable belay. The higher routes require two ropes for the abseil or alternativelty, two abseils to the ground.. The wall is deceptively overhanging so cleaning may be difficult if the second doesn't follow the route. A second via ferrata further right opens up a cluster of additional routes on excellent quality rock.

Type: 
Wall
Walk time: 
10 mins
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
T Trapeze 17 35m
0
9bolts
Up the via ferrata to the far left hand end. Up left into the corner. A quality line that deserves a good clean. A 60 metre rope will just reach the ground.
Murray Judge 2020
TbtT Tiger by the Tail 20,18
2.01
15bolts 2
From the fixed belay seat, move left along the chain and up into the layback corner. Onto a big ledge then up a second layback corner. The two stars are reserved for the first pitch only.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1200m8No
 

From the fixed belay seat, move left along the chain and up into the layback corner. Onto a big ledge then up a second layback corner. The two stars are reserved for the first pitch only.

2180m7No
 

Move left from the belay and follow the bolts up into a recessed wall. Up this then out left to the belay beneath a big hole in the wall. Great exposed climbing but a bit dirty. .

Murray Judge 2021
ST Show Time 20
1.02
8bolts
From the belay at the top of the first pitch of 'Tiger by the Tail', move immediately right then up a sustained wall of finger locks and pockets.
Steve Carr 2021
BoL Book of Life 17 30m
2.01
1bolts wire representing trad
Up the obvious open book corner above the right hand end of the fixed chain. Cams to #2 Camalot, maybe double up, plus a few medium to large wires. A steep, clean line.
Dave Brash 2021
WoD Wall of Death 24
3
14bolts
Climb two metres up Book of Life then traverse along a horizontal break to the other side of the hanging pillar. Follow a crack to the top of the pillar for a rest then out across the wall on a layback flake. Swing out onto a hanging slab beneath the overhanging headwall. Exceptional finger locks and pockets to the top. A single 60m rope will just reach the ground.
Steve Carr 2021
TO Ticket Office 20
2.01
6bolts
Up the right hand via ferrata to a belay in the corner. Move left and up from the belay to a horizontal break. Move around into the corner and bridge up to the rings under the roof.
Steve Carr 2022 - rope solo
CM Circus Maximus 25
3
6bolts 2
Head rightwards under the roof for 2.5 metres until the vertical crackline appears. Strenuous and technical moves over the bulge then follow the crack all the way to the belay under the roof. It is advisable to tape the right hand for some obligatory hand jambs. Absolute quality line on aesthetic rock.
Steve Carr 2022 FFA
TA The Acrobat 20
2.01
6bolts 2
From the base of the corner at the top of the via ferrata, traverse rightwards along the line of the roof clipping three bolts along the way. Once you reach the vertical cracks, follow them to the belay up under the big roof. Take three long slings to protect the journey up the via ferrata. A difficult route to clean - lower to the ground and have your partner strip the pro on top rope.
Steve Carr, Geoff Williamson - 2022
UUID: 
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