Main Cliff Right Side

Avoid ‘The mantle challenge of the century’ on the block 5m R of C&P by finding the secret hold.

Formerly a scary little number up the groove, now protected by retrobolts in the lower section. Start behind the small macrocarpa tree.

Scramble up to the macrocarpa where twin chain links protect the start. Drop down into the head of the gully and step across onto the wall. Work hard to gain the top of a small pillar at the top of a finger crack. Up again onto a narrow ledge on the point of the arete then move around right onto the face where a rest comes by bridging back onto a large pillar. Straight up the juggy, rounded arete to a tenuous topout. Very sustained in sections.

Girdles may be historical oddities, but this full traverse of the Main Cliff and Bolt City is a great expedition of Darran proportions. Starting at the Fringe Benefit macrocarpa, move L onto the C&P buttress and continue mostly at mid-height, belaying at any convenient stances (originally climbed in about 5 pitches). The crux across the nose from Fleet Street to Freddy Fudpucker may be desperate if you’re not 6’ 9’’ with long arms, like Richard. Finish at the Philanderer ledge.

Nasty gully.

A test piece thin crack splitting the wall R of the Nuclear Free gully. A bolt above the crack directs you leftwards to a ring belay. Perhaps unrepeated but deserving of attention following a good scale and clean.

and impels them to ascend items like this (well, one person anyway - probably hasn’t had a second ascent ).

The obvious overhanging arete. Climb the crack from the base of the arete (natural gear) or step in R from Climbing Sucks (19) and follow bolts to DBB.

A lovely juggy wall on solid basalt.

- will climb anything to get into a guidebook. Shouldn’t be in the guidebook.

R H wall past 2 bolts.

A steep layback crack to a ledge then a couple of steep moves through the bulge

The black slab left of Fluid Ethics.

Left hand arete of Perfect Skin Wall. Good climbing past 5 bolts leads to an easier top section, protected by medium wires and a mid-large cam. This route has been retrobolted and redirected out onto the lefthand wall.

Start up the original line and deviate leftwards onto the slabby wall.

2m L of Perfect Skin.

Arguably the best product of the post Love era at the Beach, and second only in popularity to Labours of Love among sportclimbers, with a tricky crux that keeps spitting them off. New anchors installed 2020 along with an additional bolt down low.

The corner crack. A reasonable lead, but take care with some suspect rock.

The second pitch to Meals on Wheels curves up L to DBB. Aptly named..

Contrived face climb fighting to stay out of the corner. Finish out R around the belay ledge block. .

The right facing layback corner up to the roof then exit left onto the slab.

Fully bolted to a high belay up the wall approximately 10 metres right of 'Fraggle Rock'.

start on the left of Vipers slab up a couple of steep moves onto ledges. A thin traverse to the right around the arete then up.

Dyno off the ground to juggy ledge under the first bolt by the hanging corner between Fluid Ethics & Never Enough. Commit to desperate heel hook onto slab, delicate and balancy 3rd clip, explosive cranking to conquer steep headwall, then easy steps to the top with a couple finger/hand-sized cams to protect short crack system. Shared anchor as for Fluid Ethics. It is possible to run it out a bit to the left and connect into Fluid Ethics Variant for a fully bolted line if you don't have trad gear. Spot your climber to first clip or stickclip first bolt.