Main Cliff Right Side

Type

Sector

Altitude

Part of

Long Beach Wharewerawera

The wall up and right of C&P is best approached up the track just south of the Pinnacle up through the macrocarpas

Walktime

7min

Aspect

East

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
2a	2aLife Sentence, 21	21	30m	12	2.01
Begin at the base of 'Slime and Sediment' and head rightwards up pockets and edges. Into Fringe Benefit corner for a couple of metres before breaking out left and directly up the wall above. P1 21 30m 12
3	3Whine and Botherment, 21	21	7m	2	0
P1 21 7m 2 Avoid ‘The mantle challenge of the century’ on the block 5m R of C&P by finding the secret hold.
4	4Fringe Benefit, 19	19	15m	5	0
P1 19 15m 5 Trad Formerly a scary little number up the groove, now protected by retrobolts in the lower section. Start behind the small macrocarpa tree.
5	5Fringe Benefit Variant, 21	21	15m	8	0
P1 21 15m 8 Scramble up to the macrocarpa where twin chain links protect the start. Drop down into the head of the gully and step across onto the wall. Work hard to gain the top of a small pillar at the top of a finger crack. Up again onto a narrow ledge on the point of the arete then move around right onto the face where a rest comes by bridging back onto a large pillar. Straight up the juggy, rounded arete to a tenuous topout. Very sustained in sections.
	Fringe Benefit Variant , 2	2	0m		0
Start as for the original line. Drop down from the chain links on the block behind the macro into the head of the gully and step across onto the wall. Work hard to gain the top of a pillar. Now up onto a small ledge on the arete before slipping around right onto a steep wall. A good rest appears as you back step and then gain the top of a big pillar. Back onto the wall for some steep climbing mostly on good jugs to a tenuous topout. P1 2
	Voyage of the Dawn Treader, 23	23	100m		0
P1 23 100m Trad Girdles may be historical oddities, but this full traverse of the Main Cliff and Bolt City is a great expedition of Darran proportions. Starting at the Fringe Benefit macrocarpa, move L onto the C&P buttress and continue mostly at mid-height, belaying at any convenient stances (originally climbed in about 5 pitches). The crux across the nose from Fleet Street to Freddy Fudpucker may be desperate if you’re not 6’ 9’’ with long arms, like Richard. Finish at the Philanderer ledge.
6	6Nuclear Free, 16	16	22m		0
P1 16 22m Trad Nasty gully.
7	7Demarcation, 22	22	8m		0
P1 22 8m Trad A test piece thin crack splitting the wall R of the Nuclear Free gully. A bolt above the crack directs you leftwards to a ring belay. Perhaps unrepeated but deserving of attention following a good scale and clean.
8	8Climbing Sucks People In, 17	17	8m		0
P1 17 8m Trad and impels them to ascend items like this (well, one person anyway - probably hasn’t had a second ascent ).
8a	8aCrawling Cave Snake, 17	17	0m	4	0
Begins on the big ledge above Demarcation. From the belay on the right hand wall, head up left onto a ledge then follow the flake to its top. Crawl rightwards along the awkward narrow ledge then up to the belay. P1 17 4
8b	8bMurrays Route, 19	19	0m	4	0
Direct up the arete. P1 19 4
9	9Climbing Sucks Variant, 20	20	10m	3	0
P1 20 10m 3 Trad The obvious overhanging arete. Climb the crack from the base of the arete (natural gear) or step in R from Climbing Sucks (19) and follow bolts to DBB.
9a	9aGracias por Todo, 19	19	10m	5	0
P1 19 10m 5 A lovely juggy wall on solid basalt.
10	10Some People, 15	15	8m		0
P1 15 8m Trad - will climb anything to get into a guidebook. Shouldn’t be in the guidebook.
11	11Some People Variant, 19	19	8m	2	0
P1 19 8m 2 R H wall past 2 bolts.
11a	11aPlaya en la Montana, 21	21	14m	8	0
P1 21 14m 8 A steep layback crack to a ledge then a couple of steep moves through the bulge
11b	11bBlack Gold, 18	18	28m	8	0
P1 18 28m 8 The black slab left of Fluid Ethics.
12	12Fluid Ethics, 20	20	15m	5	0
P1 20 15m 5 Left hand arete of Perfect Skin Wall. Good climbing past 5 bolts leads to an easier top section, protected by medium wires and a mid-large cam. This route has been retrobolted and redirected out onto the lefthand wall.
12a	12aFluid Ethics Variant, 20	20	15m	10	1.02
P1 20 15m 10 Start up the original line and deviate leftwards onto the slabby wall.
	Grim Leaper, 22	22	18m	5	2.01
P1 22 18m 5 Trad Dyno off the ground to juggy ledge under the first bolt by the hanging corner between Fluid Ethics & Never Enough. Commit to desperate heel hook onto slab, delicate and balancy 3rd clip, explosive cranking to conquer steep headwall, then easy steps to the top with a couple finger/hand-sized cams to protect short crack system. Shared anchor as for Fluid Ethics. It is possible to run it out a bit to the left and connect into Fluid Ethics Variant for a fully bolted line if you don't have trad gear. Spot your climber to first clip or stickclip first bolt.
13	13Never Enough, 25	25	14m	4	0
P1 25 14m 4 2m L of Perfect Skin.
14	14Perfect Skin, 25	25	14m	4	2.01
P1 25 14m 4 Arguably the best product of the post Love era at the Beach, and second only in popularity to Labours of Love among sportclimbers, with a tricky crux that keeps spitting them off. New anchors installed 2020 along with an additional bolt down low.
15	15Meals on Wheels, 13	13	8m		1.02
P1 13 8m Trad The corner crack. A reasonable lead, but take care with some suspect rock.
16	16Never Again, 18	18	6m		0
P1 18 6m Trad The second pitch to Meals on Wheels curves up L to DBB. Aptly named..
17	17Fraggle Rock, 18	18	8m	2	0
P1 18 8m 2 Trad Contrived face climb fighting to stay out of the corner. Finish out R around the belay ledge block. .
18	18Strike, 21	21	10m	5	0
P1 21 10m 5 The right facing layback corner up to the roof then exit left onto the slab.
SVO	SVOSuper Viper Overdrive, 25	25	0m	8	2.01
P1 25 8 Fully bolted to a high belay up the wall approximately 10 metres right of 'Fraggle Rock'.
	Snake in the Grass, 19	19	28m	9	0
P1 19 28m 9 start on the left of Vipers slab up a couple of steep moves onto ledges. A thin traverse to the right around the arete then up.

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UUID

06112726-4979-4bd4-8f83-10a0b6af879c