Main Cliff Right Side

(25 routes)

The wall up and right of C&P is best approached up the track just south of the Pinnacle up through the macrocarpas

Altitude: 
5m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
7min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
2a Life Sentence 21 30m
2.01
12bolts
Begin at the base of 'Slime and Sediment' and head rightwards up pockets and edges. Into Fringe Benefit corner for a couple of metres before breaking out left and directly up the wall above.
Murray Judge 2019
3 Whine and Botherment 21 7m
0
2bolts
Avoid ‘The mantle challenge of the century’ on the block 5m R of C&P by finding the secret hold.
Jo Kippax, 1994.
4 Fringe Benefit 19 15m
0
5bolts wire representing trad
Formerly a scary little number up the groove, now protected by retrobolts in the lower section. Start behind the small macrocarpa tree.
Graham Love, 1984
5 Fringe Benefit Variant 20 15m
0
5bolts 1
Wall R of Fringe benefit. Al Mark connected Slime and Sediment with this climb in 1998..
Jo Kippax, 1994
5 Fringe Benefit Variant #3 21 15m
0
8bolts
Start as for the original line. Drop down from the chain links on the block behind the macro into the head of the gully and step across onto the wall. Work hard to gain the top of a pillar. Now up onto a small ledge on the arete before slipping around right onto a steep wall. A good rest appears as you back step and then gain the top of a big pillar. Back onto the wall for some steep climbing mostly on good jugs to a tenuous topout.
Voyage of the Dawn Treader 23 100m
0
wire representing trad
Girdles may be historical oddities, but this full traverse of the Main Cliff and Bolt City is a great expedition of Darran proportions. Starting at the Fringe Benefit macrocarpa, move L onto the C&P buttress and continue mostly at mid-height, belaying at any convenient stances (originally climbed in about 5 pitches). The crux across the nose from Fleet Street to Freddy Fudpucker may be desperate if you’re not 6’ 9’’ with long arms, like Richard. Finish at the Philanderer ledge.
Richard O’Neill-Dean, Dave Brash, Murray Brass, 1991.
6 Nuclear Free 16 22m
0
wire representing trad
Nasty gully.
Graham Love, 1984
7 Demarcation 22 8m
0
wire representing trad
A test piece thin crack splitting the wall R of the Nuclear Free gully. A bolt above the crack directs you leftwards to a ring belay. Perhaps unrepeated but deserving of attention following a good scale and clean.
Graham Love, 1983.
8 Climbing Sucks People In 17 8m
0
wire representing trad
and impels them to ascend items like this (well, one person anyway - probably hasn’t had a second ascent ).
Simon Cox, 1984.
9 Climbing Sucks Variant 20 10m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
The obvious overhanging arete. Climb the crack from the base of the arete (natural gear) or step in R from Climbing Sucks (19) and follow bolts to DBB.
Rick Kersaw, 1995.
GPT Gracias por Todo 18 10m
0
5bolts
A lovely juggy wall on solid basalt.
Maria Royo June 2019
10 Some People 15 8m
0
wire representing trad
- will climb anything to get into a guidebook. Shouldn’t be in the guidebook.
Brian Alder, 1984.
11 Some People Variant 19 8m
0
2bolts
R H wall past 2 bolts.
Jo Kippax, 1995.
PelM Playa en la Montana 21 14m
0
8bolts
A steep layback crack to a ledge then a couple of steep moves through the bulge
Nacho Torroja June 2019
Black Gold 18 28m
0
8bolts
the black slab just left of Fluid Ethics
Murray Judge May 2019
12 Fluid Ethics 20 15m
0
5bolts
Left hand arete of Perfect Skin Wall. Good climbing past 5 bolts leads to an easier top section, protected by medium wires and a mid-large cam. This route has been retrobolted and redirected out onto the lefthand wall.
Steve Carr 1998. Rebolted as a variant on the wall to the left in 2019.
12a Fluid Ethics Variant 20 15m
1.02
10bolts
Start up the original line and deviate leftwards onto the slabby wall.
Steve Carr 2019
13 Never Enough 25 14m
0
4bolts
2m L of Perfect Skin.
Andy Milne, 1991.
14 Perfect Skin 25 14m
2.01
3bolts
Arguably the best product of the post Love era at the Beach, and second only in popularity to Labours of Love among sportclimbers, with a tricky crux that keeps spitting them off.
Andy Milne, 1991.
15 Meals on Wheels 13 8m
1.02
wire representing trad
The corner crack. A reasonable lead, but take care with some suspect rock.
16 Never Again 18 6m
0
wire representing trad
The second pitch to Meals on Wheels curves up L to DBB. Aptly named.16. Never Again 6m 18 The second pitch to Meals on Wheels curves up L to DBB. Aptly named.
Phil DeJoux, 1985.
17 Fraggle Rock 18 8m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Contrived face climb fighting to stay out of the corner. Finish out R around the belay ledge block. .
Al Mark, 1984.
S Strike 21 10m
0
5bolts
the right facing layback corner up to the roof then exit left onto the slab
Sam Henehan May 2019
SVO Super Viper Overdrive 25
2.01
8bolts
Fully bolted to a high belay up the wall approximately 10 metres right of 'Fraggle Rock'.
Steven McInally
Snake in the Grass 19 28m
0
9bolts
start on the left of Vipers slab up a couple of steep moves onto ledges. A thin traverse to the right around the arete then up.
Murray Judge May 2019
UUID: 
06112726-4979-4bd4-8f83-10a0b6af879c