Skip to main content

Philanderer Wall

Type
Sector
Part of
Long Beach Wharewerawera

The leaning Philanderer Wall faces Labours of Love from the L side of Garbage Gully:

Walktime
3min
Aspect
South East
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
.5 .5Scylla, 29 29 5
2.01
  • P1
  • 29
  • 5

Equipped by Steve Carr who then opened the project for others. Scramble up to ledge above Philanderer and power up overhanging wall above, moving left to chains after exiting V groove. Great moves and rock.

D DDeadname, 22 22 10m 5
0

Hard crimp over the bulge right at the start then steeply up the wall above, eventually joining the top section of Unnamed.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 10m
  • 5
1 1Nameless Route, 18 18 8m 1
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 8m
  • 1
  • Trad

Start below Philanderer groove, traverse up and L, clipping Philanderer bolt as you go (not there for first ascent). Slightly stressful top-out on less than perfect rock. Bill Macleod soloed it while waiting for his belayer to thread the belay plate.

2 2Philanderer, 24 24 8m 1
2.01
  • P1
  • 24
  • 8m
  • 1
  • Trad

A wedding present for Luke - the news that the route he had been working on had been completed for him. Climb the obvious line of chalked holds moving left past a small cam placement and then back right to the bolt. Power up right into the V-groove to find bomber pro and an absorbing finish.

3 3Nautilus, 30 30 8m 5
2.01
  • P1
  • 30
  • 8m
  • 5

The steep and blank wall immediately right of Philanderer. Hard crimping leads to powerful and dynamic moves. Originally bolted by Geoff Ellis.

3.5 3.5Trash Talk, 19 19 6
0

Climb the groove to the right of the Garbage Gully corner into the cleft where there is a flat, dirt covered ledge at the base of the big chimney. The ring belay is inside the cleft. It can be accessed by walking down into the cleft from the top by dropping in from right hand of Southern Wall.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 6
4 4Garbage Gully, 16 16 15m 8
1.02
  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • 8

The name and appearance meant the chasm at the back of the gully got few ascents, but don’t be put off – The big chimney is a great adventure climb, originally entered by traversing in from the L along ledge above Philanderer. Classic chimney culminating in a white lichenous headwall to a ring belay at its top. In 1973 Murray Jones led the whole chimney by climbing up the outside (very impressive to watch and second) and graded it HVS/5.8. In 2023 it was completely revamped with the use of chainsaw and crow bar and retrobolted. If unable or unwilling to climb the lower pitch (Trash Talk) to the cleft, access can be gained by taking the track up behind Dragons' Lair and into the trees where a walkway ends at the belay ring at the base of the chimney.

Comments
UUID
 
166c264e-56d6-4af3-8a22-551dea4acae4