Philanderer Wall

(5 routes)

The leaning Philanderer Wall faces Labours of Love from the L side of Garbage Gully:

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South East
Walk time: 
3min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Nameless Route 18 8m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Start below Philanderer groove, traverse up and L, clipping Philanderer bolt as you go (not there for first ascent). Slightly stressful top-out on less than perfect rock. Bill Macleod soloed it while waiting for his belayer to thread the belay plate.
Dave Fearnley, 1984.
2 Philanderer 24 8m
2.01
1bolts wire representing trad
A wedding present for Luke - the news that the route he had been working on had been completed for him. Climb the obvious line of chalked holds moving left past a small cam placement and then back right to the bolt. Power up right into the V-groove to find bomber pro and an absorbing finish.
Richard Thomson, 1986.
3 Nautilus 30 8m
2.01
5bolts
The steep and blank wall immediately right of Philanderer. Hard crimping leads to powerful and dynamic moves. Originally bolted by Geoff Ellis.
Ivan Vostinar
4 Garbage Gully 17 50m
0
wire representing trad
The name and appearance means the chasm at the back of the gully gets few ascents, but don’t be put off – the big chimney is still a great adventure climb, originally entered by traversing in from the L along ledge above Philanderer. Classic chimney and up headwall to the top of the pinnacle. The descent became tricky after a huge tree fell from the top of Main Cliff in 1977 smashing and destroying what was previously easy. In 1973 Murray Jones led the whole chimney by climbing up the outside (very impressive to watch and second) and graded it HVS/5.8.
3a Scylla 29
2.01
5bolts
Equipped by Steve Carr who then opened the project for others. Scramble up to ledge above Philanderer and power up overhanging wall above, moving left to chains after exiting V groove. Great moves and rock.
Oliver Miller
UUID: 
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