2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Dunedin/Otago Peninsula
  5. Long Beach
  6. Southern Wall

Southern Wall

(25 routes)

The Southern Wall extends from the right-hand end of Manhattan Wall all the way along to the 'grotto' in behind Garbage Gully (up behind Dragons' Lair).

Altitude: 
15m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North East
Walk time: 
5 mins
Access: 

Follow the rough track that zigzags up behind Dragons' Lair.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
TG The Grunter 19,20 38m
1.02
 20bolts 2
Negotiate your way easily along the chains starting at 'Weak Flesh' to a semi-hanging belay with a small ledge. Bring your partner along to join you. Bridge the open-book corner, moving out onto the righthand wall around mid-height then back into the corner. A thought-provoking finish out left onto a big ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11918m8No
 

Negotiate your way easily along the chains starting at 'Weak Flesh' to a semi-hanging belay with a small ledge. Bring your partner along to join you. Bridge the open-book corner, moving out onto the righthand wall around mid-height then back into the corner. A thought-provoking finish out left onto a big ledge.

22020m12No
 

Up the edges right of the belay then traverse left around the arete onto a narrow ledge system. Continue along the ledge to the far corner (bypassing a ring belay) then up a couple of steep slabs. Layback and heel hook your way up the right leaning corner to the roof. Hand traverse left and rockover onto the belay ledge. 30m rappel to the ground.
Dave Brash, Steve Carr 2017 (pitch 1). Murray Judge, Steve Carr 2021 (pitch 2).
BBB Blah, Blah, Blah 22
1.02
 8bolts
Set up a belay at the base of a left facing corner. Up the corner to a ledge then layback up to a big jug. A couple of technical moves up to a sharp layback edge and on to another positive edge hidden at the back of a small recessed corner. Now move left onto a ledge then up onto a recessed belay ledge set in the wall above.
Steve Carr 2021
S Seppuku 21
1.02
 8bolts
Make your way along the fixed chain from 'Weak Flesh' to a ring in a corner. Up precariously onto a ledge then up the flake to a short diagonal fissure. Layback the flake above the fissure to a sharp edge and pull up into a stance. Move delicately left along a horizontal fracture then pull up onto a small triangular ledge recessed into the wall to finish.
Steve Carr 2021
St Stingray 19 25m
1.02
 12bolts
Move across left from the start of Weak Flesh and onto the big ledges with chains draped across them. Up the first corner and out left into another steep corner. Up the corner to a layback flake just above a rightwards trending ramp. Up the ramp until just touching the edge of the top section of Weak Flesh. Now immediately move left to a ledge and up a series of slabs to the white lichenous slab and up the left hand edge of it on small crimps.
Steve Carr 2021
WF Weak Flesh 18 20m
1.02
 10bolts
Scramble up to the fixed rope to belay from the grassy ledge. Move out left onto the breccia wall then straight up the line. The second line to be established on this wall, opening the way for the development of a cluster of enjoyable routes.
Steve Carr 2017
WF Weak Flesh 18
0
 8bolts 1
Steve Carr 2017
LWC Long White Cloud 16 20m
1.02
 7bolts
Scramble up the fixed rope (which can be used as a runner) and after clipping the first bolt of 'Weak Flesh' head easily up and right over a big flake to the base of the white pillar. Surmount three steps arriving at the base of the steep corner. Towards the top of the corner, make an unlikely move right to a big jug hidden out on the arete. Pad on up to the summit.
Steve Carr 2019
GttL Grooving to the Left 17 20m
1.02
 10bolts
From the fixed rope scramble up to the base of the pillar (2 bolts protect on the side wall). Wind your way up just left of the corner and pull or rock over onto the sloping ledge at mid height. Straight up the corner with a nice finger crack to the top of the pillar.
Murray Judge 2019
GttR Grooving to the Right 19 15m
1.02
 10bolts
Scramble up to the base of the big rounded pillar (clipping 2 bolts on the side wall) then wind your way up the left wall on good holds. Rock onto the midway ledge then step across right and up the hanging groove to the belay out left.
Gabriel Rawcliffe 2019 (equipped by Steve Carr)
SM Sending Mars 17
0
 wire representing trad 2
Up the steep splitter crack in the side wall.
Bob Chow 2020 FFA (equipped by Steve Carr)
I Inoculum 19 18m
1.02
 8bolts
Start at the base of New Horizons and head out left along a ledge and around the point. Up into the corner and onto the top of a truncated pillar. Squeeze out onto the big sloping ledge above where you will find a belay ring. Now layback up the edge of a gently overhanging flake and onwards to the belay.
Steve Carr 2019
NH New Horizons 21 20m
1.02
 10bolts 2
Tricky move getting established on the upper section. Some really great climbing on excellent rock. The first route established on this wall opening the way for a cluster of enjoyable routes.
Steve Carr 2017
SS Southern Style 20 30m
1.02
 11bolts
Up into the v groove.. Exit it via the hand crack then up to a belay hidden over the top of the cliff line on a ledge.
Murray Judge 2019
FB Flash Bomb 20 30m
1.02
 13bolts
Up the weakness in the slabs and onto broad ledge. Tackle the finger crack (crux) and then up a couple of short walls to a semi hanging belay.
Steve Carr 2019
K Kaipo 22 20m
2.01
 10bolts
Begin up the rib on Salivation then walk left up the ramp and up into a V groove. A tricky move out of the V and up the leaning corner above. Step across left onto the golden hanging slab and delicately crimp your way across to the far side. Up the steepening wall on good holds to a devious rockover move onto the narrow ledge then work back left to the belay.
Steve Carr 2019
S Salivation 21 25m
1.02
 10bolts
Follow the rib that leads into a corner system. Up to a small ledge beneath the bulge, into the crack and over onto a hanging slab.
Steve Carr 2019
ITG In the Groove 17 18m
0
 7bolts 1
Start out to the right and head into the deep corner.
Murray Judge 2019
SB Southerly Blast 17 15m
0
 7bolts
Head up into the base of In the Groove then out right onto the arete. Straight up to ITG belay.
Murray Judge 2019
SBD Southerly Blast Direct 21
0
 1bolts 1
A few technical moves up to meet Southerly Blast. Worthwhile.
Rob Connelly 2019
S Sirrus 20 30m
0
 10bolts 3
A nice start leads to a long haul to a high belay.
Murray Judge 2019
CmG Call me Grubbie 15 30m
0
 10bolts
Some great rock and moves on the lower half of the route. Dig in for the long haul.
Murray Judge 2019
DaD Done and Dusted 15 3m
0
 10bolts
Straight up the guts and then head right of the big black pillar wedged at the top of the corner.
Murray Judge 2019
G-D G-Dub 25 15m
0
 5bolts
Up the grey water streak and powerfully over the overhang. Equipped by John Newby in 2007.
Nathan Campbell 2008
RtS Ride the Spiral 18 15m
1.02
 7bolts
Clip the first bolt of G-Dub then up and right until standing on top of a small pillar. Make an unlikely move directly above to the wedged blocks before moving rightwards onto the slab then up the hanging corner. Often dry when everything around is wet; and on very good quality rock.
Steve Carr 2018
TSR The Shady Rest 21
1.02
 5bolts
Enjoyable, steep face climbing. The crux comes shortly after leaving the ground followed by consistent grade 20 moves on positive holds.
Steve Carr 2020
UUID: 
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