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Southern Wall

Type
Sector
Altitude
15m
Part of
Long Beach Wharewerawera

The Southern Wall extends from the right-hand end of Manhattan Wall all the way along to the 'grotto' in behind Garbage Gully (up behind Dragons' Lair).

Walktime
5 mins
Aspect
North East
Approach

Follow the rough track that zigzags up behind Dragons' Lair.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
TG TGThe Grunter, 20 20 38m 12
1.02
  • P1
  • 19
  • 18m
  • 8

Negotiate your way easily along the chains starting at 'Weak Flesh' to a semi-hanging belay with a small ledge. Bring your partner along to join you. Bridge the open-book corner, moving out onto the righthand wall around mid-height then back into the corner. A thought-provoking finish out left onto a big ledge.

  • P2
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 12

Up the edges right of the belay then traverse left around the arete onto a narrow ledge system. Continue along the ledge to the far corner (bypassing a ring belay) then up a couple of steep slabs. Layback and heel hook your way up the right leaning corner to the roof. Hand traverse left and rockover onto the belay ledge. 30m rappel to the ground.
BBB BBBBlah, Blah, Blah, 22 22 8
1.02

Set up a belay at the base of a left facing corner. Up the corner to a ledge then layback up to a big jug. A couple of technical moves up to a sharp layback edge and on to another positive edge hidden at the back of a small recessed corner. Now move left onto a ledge then up onto a recessed belay ledge set in the wall above.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 8
S SSeppuku, 21 21 8
1.02

Make your way along the fixed chain from 'Weak Flesh' to a ring in a corner. Up precariously onto a ledge then up the flake to a short diagonal fissure. Layback the flake above the fissure to a sharp edge and pull up into a stance. Move delicately left along a horizontal fracture then pull up onto a small triangular ledge recessed into the wall to finish.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 8
St StStingray, 19 19 25m 12
1.02
  • P1
  • 19
  • 25m
  • 12

Move across left from the start of Weak Flesh and onto the big ledges with chains draped across them. Up the first corner and out left into another steep corner. Up the corner to a layback flake just above a rightwards trending ramp. Up the ramp until just touching the edge of the top section of Weak Flesh. Now immediately move left to a ledge and up a series of slabs to the white lichenous slab and up the left hand edge of it on small crimps.
WF WFWeak Flesh, 18 18 20m 10
1.02

Scramble up to the fixed rope to belay from the grassy ledge. Move out left onto the breccia wall then straight up the line. The second line to be established on this wall, opening the way for the development of a cluster of enjoyable routes.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 10

A short fixed rope hangs from a bolt at the start. Use this to belay from. Up and out leftwards to the edge of an arete. Up the arete and over a couple of bulges. The second bulge is the crux. Move up onto the steep grey wall to the belay ring under a small roof.

WF WFWeak Flesh, 18 18 8
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 8
LWC LWCLong White Cloud, 16 16 20m 7
1.02

Scramble up the fixed rope (which can be used as a runner) and after clipping the first bolt of 'Weak Flesh' head easily up and right over a big flake to the base of the white pillar. Surmount three steps arriving at the base of the steep corner. Towards the top of the corner, make an unlikely move right to a big jug hidden out on the arete. Pad on up to the summit.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 20m
  • 7
GttL GttLGrooving to the Left, 17 17 20m 10
1.02

From the fixed rope scramble up to the base of the pillar (2 bolts protect on the side wall). Wind your way up just left of the corner and pull or rock over onto the sloping ledge at mid height. Straight up the corner with a nice finger crack to the top of the pillar.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • 10
GttR GttRGrooving to the Right, 19 19 15m 10
1.02

Scramble up to the base of the big rounded pillar (clipping 2 bolts on the side wall) then wind your way up the left wall on good holds. Rock onto the midway ledge then step across right and up the hanging groove to the belay out left.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 10
SM SMSending Mars, 17 17
0

Up the steep splitter crack in the side wall.

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad
I IInoculum, 19 19 18m 8
1.02

Start at the base of New Horizons and head out left along a ledge and around the point. Up into the corner and onto the top of a truncated pillar. Squeeze out onto the big sloping ledge above where you will find a belay ring. Now layback up the edge of a gently overhanging flake and onwards to the belay.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 18m
  • 8
NH NHNew Horizons, 21 21 20m 10
1.02
  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 10

Tricky move getting established on the upper section. Some really great climbing on excellent rock. The first route established on this wall opening the way for a cluster of enjoyable routes.
SS SSSouthern Style, 20 20 30m 11
1.02
  • P1
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 11

Up into the v groove.. Exit it via the hand crack then up to a belay hidden over the top of the cliff line on a ledge.
FB FBFlash Bomb, 20 20 30m 13
1.02

Up the weakness in the slabs and onto broad ledge. Tackle the finger crack (crux) and then up a couple of short walls to a semi hanging belay.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 13
K KKaipo, 22 22 20m 10
2.01

Begin up the rib on Salivation then walk left up the ramp and up into a V groove. A tricky move out of the V and up the leaning corner above. Step across left onto the golden hanging slab and delicately crimp your way across to the far side. Up the steepening wall on good holds to a devious rockover move onto the narrow ledge then work back left to the belay.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 10
S SSalivation, 21 21 25m 10
1.02

Follow the rib that leads into a corner system. Up to a small ledge beneath the bulge, into the crack and over onto a hanging slab.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 25m
  • 10
ITG ITGIn the Groove, 17 17 18m 7
0

Start out to the right and head into the deep corner.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 18m
  • 7
SB SBSoutherly Blast, 17 17 15m 7
0

Head up into the base of In the Groove then out right onto the arete. Straight up to ITG belay.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • 7
SBD SBDSoutherly Blast Direct, 21 21 1
0

A few technical moves up to meet Southerly Blast. Worthwhile.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 1
S SSirrus, 20 20 30m 10
0

A nice start leads to a long haul to a high belay.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 10
CmG CmGCall me Grubbie, 15 15 30m 10
0

Some great rock and moves on the lower half of the route. Dig in for the long haul.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 30m
  • 10
DaD DaDDone and Dusted, 15 15 3m 10
0

Straight up the guts and then head right of the big black pillar wedged at the top of the corner.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 3m
  • 10
G-D G-DG-Dub, 25 25 15m 5
0
  • P1
  • 25
  • 15m
  • 5

Up the grey water streak and powerfully over the overhang. Equipped by John Newby in 2007.
RtS RtSRide the Spiral, 18 18 15m 7
1.02
  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 7

Clip the first bolt of G-Dub then up and right until standing on top of a small pillar. Make an unlikely move directly above to the wedged blocks before moving rightwards onto the slab then up the hanging corner. Often dry when everything around is wet; and on very good quality rock.
TSR TSRThe Shady Rest, 21 21 5
1.02

Enjoyable, steep face climbing. The crux comes shortly after leaving the ground followed by consistent grade 20 moves on positive holds.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 5
AGD AGDAnti-Gravity Delicacy, 24 24 15m 7
1.02

Finesse your way up the blank-looking face into the crux, and either test your static balance or resolve your commitment issues with a slab dyno to the rail!
Criminally easier if you're taller, harder if you're vertically challenged – good luck with the mono alternative beta..
Manoeuvre up towards easier terrain and pick your finish into either Ride the Spiral or The Shady Rest.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 15m
  • 7
Comments
UUID
 
8ded30b4-4ad1-4b04-b5c5-886bf5db67da