Hidden Wall

(10 routes)

A gem a of a crag discovered by Murray Judge on an exploratory trip along the base of the Long Beach cliff line. Hidden from sight behind an elderberry thicket, it has produced a clutch of classic lines on mostly brilliant quality rock. It appears that the crag very seldom gets wet and so grit from the breccia walls above settles on exposed edges making the crag a bit dusty. The routes aren't particularly long but this shortfall is more than compensated for by marvellous climbing. Head into the macrocarpa forest via a track on the Sunny Side of the Pinnacle. Follow the track for about 150 metres (fluoro paint dots on tree trunks) then drop down into the native bush, walking through a sticky bit of track, and turn right when you hit the base of the cliffline. Continue until the crag appears. The area is prone to the odd falling rock from the choss above, particularly when windy. Staying close to the wall and keeping your helmet on are good ideas.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
SaS Sand and Surf 19
1.02
6bolts
Launch onto the wall from the top of the cairn at the left hand end of the crag. Head for 'the narrows' and jamb and bridge your way through on superb rock.
Murray Judge 2019
PR Pumpy Relaxation 23
1.02
4bolts wire representing trad
Start right of the rock cairn and pull over onto the ledge. You can also work along the ledge from further right. Place a couple of pieces of natural pro on your way up to the big undercling. Follow the bolts out right and finesse your way over the bulge. Head left once over the bulge to the ring belay of Sand and Surf.
Luca Benjamin 2019
S Stuka 22
2.01
7bolts
Through the overhanging blocks - there might be a knee-bar in there somewhere - and left into the base of the overhanging finger crack. Power up the crack and over the big flake.
Steve Carr, 2019
TC The Custodian 20
2.01
wire representing trad
Up the crack that splits the crag in two. A selection of medium to small cams and wires.
Steve Carr 2019
T Tempest 22
3
6bolts 2
Boulder up to where the crack appears. Now commit to the overhanging finger crack to a big pocket. Over the horizontal spike then onto the featured juggy wall above.
Steve Carr 2019
DS Dust Storm 19
1.02
5bolts
Jam the prominent crackline towards the right hand end of the wall. Scramble a couple of metres up the dirt track then surmount the pedestal to where the crack opens up.
Murray Judge 2019
B Beachcomber 19
1.02
5bolts
Cleaned and equipped by Murray Judge and gifted to Sam. Great rock, amazing architecture and wicked moves. Keep moving right at the top.
Sam Henehan 2019
YBR Yellow Brick Road 19
0
9bolts
The first route to be established here. Murray utilised the high point to drop down onto the lower ledges out left thus opening up the lower crag. Dusty at the bottom and fragile near the top, this route nevertheless contains some interesting manoeuvres. Lots of bolts to keep things sane anyway.
Murray Judge 2019
YBR Yellow Brick Road 19
0
9bolts 1
Murray Judge 2019
S Stuka 22
2.01
7bolts 1
Through the overhang - could be a knee-bar in there somewhere - and tenuously into the base of the overhanging finger crack. Power up the crack and over the big flake. Sublime climbing on awesome rock.
FFA Steve Carr, 2019
UUID: 
b5af4a89-3ba2-4876-aae5-1ec4983b756f