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Hidden Wall

Type
Sector
Part of
Long Beach Wharewerawera

A gem of a crag discovered by Murray Judge on an exploratory trip along the base of the Long Beach cliff line. Hidden from sight behind an elderberry thicket, it has produced a clutch of classic lines on mostly brilliant quality rock. It appears that the crag very seldom gets wet; consequently grit from the breccia walls above settles on exposed edges making the crag a bit dusty. The routes aren't particularly long but this shortfall is more than compensated for by marvelous climbing. Head into the macrocarpa forest via a track on the Sunny Side of the Pinnacle. Follow the track through the forest for about 150 metres (fluoro paint dots on tree trunks) veering leftwards towards the cliff face then drop down a narrow sandy track to the left of a big macro tree and into the native bush, walking through a sticky bit of track (and a recently fallen macro from the cliff top), and turn right when you hit the base of the cliff line. It's wise to have your helmet on by this stage.
Continue until the crag appears. The area is prone to the odd falling rock from the choss above, particularly when windy. Staying close to the wall and keeping your helmet on are good ideas.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
UI UIUseful Idiots, 20 20 30m 14
1.02
  • P1
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 14

Start off the cairn and climb leftwards past The Entity and onto The Fifth Column. Traverse low beneath the pointy topped pillar and onto the steep, featured face. Now climb straight up on good holds to the belay up high.
TFC TFCThe Fifth Column , 19 19 25m 10
1.02
  • P1
  • 19
  • 25m
  • 10

Begin by clipping the first five bolts on 'The Entity' before traversing leftwards under the roof and onto the top of a pillar. Now up the steep wall on sculpted holds to a belay set back in the wall.
TE TEThe Entity, 19 19 22m 9
1.02
  • P1
  • 19
  • 22m
  • 9

Begin from the rock pedestal, clipping the first three bolts of 'Sand and Surf' then traverse out left across the hanging slab to the corner. Continue through the left side of the roof and follow the jugs steeply to the cruxy finale on the headwall.
SaS SaSSand and Surf, 19 19 0m 7
1.02

Launch onto the wall from the top of the cairn at the left hand end of the crag. Head for 'the narrows' and jamb and bridge your way through on superb rock. True to name, it attracts dust above the groove as the angle relents.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 7
PR PRPumpy Relaxation, 23 23 0m 4
1.02

Start right of the rock cairn and pull over onto the ledge. You can also work along the ledge from further right. Place a couple of pieces of natural pro on your way up to the big undercling. Follow the bolts out right and finesse your way over the bulge. Head left once over the bulge to the ring belay of Sand and Surf.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 4
  • Trad
S SStuka, 22 22 0m 7
2.01

Through the overhanging blocks - there might be a knee-bar in there somewhere - and left into the base of the overhanging finger crack. Power up the crack on positive holds and over the big flake.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 7
TC TCThe Custodian, 20 20 0m 7
2.01

The prominent crack in the centre of the crag. Originally climbed on bolts that were subsequently removed, it was rebolted when it gathered dust again from neglect. Work your way up through the lower blocks to the protrusion with an undercling on its bottom edge. Up and over this to where the crackline appears. Follow this all the way to the belay.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 7
TP TPThe Philanthropist, 22 22 0m 7
2.01

Begin by clipping the first two bolts of Tempest before moving left and up the centre of the wall. Great holds, great moves to finish at the Tempest belay.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 7
T TTempest, 22 22 0m 6
3

Boulder up to where the crack appears. Now commit to the overhanging finger crack. Over the horizontal spike then onto the featured juggy wall above. An exceptionally high quality line.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 6
DS DSDust Storm, 19 19 0m 5
1.02

Begin off a small shelf a few metres up the dirt slope. Move left up a pedestal and into the crack. It's often a bit dusty here due to its low angle. Jam the prominent crackline until it doglegs out left and up again.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 5
B BBeachcomber, 19 19 0m 5
1.02

Cleaned and equipped by Murray Judge and gifted to Sam. Great rock, amazing architecture and wicked moves. Keep moving right at the top.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 5
YM YMYerba Mate, 24 24 0m 4
0
  • P1
  • 24
  • 4

Directly up the wall and over the bulge. Look for the hidden pockets.
CB CBChe Boludo, 24 24 0m 4
3
  • P1
  • 24
  • 4

Layback the crack edge then out right and up to a big pocket. If you thought that was pumpy, get lined up for some staunch moves back left and over the bulge. Thought provoking moves all the way.

LoM LoMLife on Mars, 20 20 0m 3
0
  • P1
  • 20
  • 3

Start close into the right hand of the wall.
YBR YBRYellow Brick Road, 19 19 0m 9
0

The first route to be established here. Murray utilised the high point to drop down onto the lower ledges out left thus opening up the lower crag. Dusty at the bottom and fragile near the top, this route nevertheless contains some interesting manoeuvres. Lots of bolts to keep things sane anyway.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 9
S SStuka, 22 22 0m 7
2.01
  • P1
  • 22
  • 7
YM YMYerba Mate, 24 24 0m 4
0
  • P1
  • 24
  • 4

Directly up the wall and over the bulge. Look for the hidden pockets.
CB CBChe Boludo, 24 24 0m 4
2.01
  • P1
  • 24
  • 4

Begin at the overlap then move leftwards and over the bulge. Thought provoking moves all the way.

LoM LoMLife on Mars, 20 20 0m 3
0
  • P1
  • 20
  • 3

Start close into the right hand of the wall.
TE TETE, 19 19 20m 9
1.02

Form the top of the cairn, pull up onto the lip above and clip the first three bolts of 'Sand and Surf' before moving left and up into the corner. Continue through the left side of the roof and follow the jugs steeply to the stinging finale on the headwall.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 9
Comments
UUID
 
b5af4a89-3ba2-4876-aae5-1ec4983b756f