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Pompeii

Type
Sector
Part of
Long Beach Wharewerawera

Approximately 80 metres north of the Hidden Wall area. Also can walk to the north end of the beach and pick up the track heading into the bush beside North Buttress. Make your way along the track until a clear area under the big macrocarpas provides access to the rock. Most of the routes are short and a single rope will get you down to the ground even on the longer routes. Helmets are essential in this area as breccia knobs on the wall above often release during windy or wet conditions. This area extends all the way northwards to the elevated cave behind North Buttress. Lots of the routes are reverting back to nature and need a good scrub and a spay of roundup on the stinging nettle. Other routes are weathering the storm. You can generally tell which are which.

Walktime
10 min
Aspect
East
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
RO RORock On, 19 19 0m 8
0

Technical and strenuous moves off the ground. Through the crux, up the groove and onto a ledge. Up the edges to a high belay.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 8
ROf ROfRocks Off, 18 18 0m 2
0

An interesting start to a deep undercling pocket then steeply up the wall on crimps.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 2
RA RARock Away, 16 16 0m 6
0

Some nice featured rock starting up pockets then balancy moves just left of the thin rib.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 6
S SStardust, 18 18 22m 8
0

The smooth shallow groove which can be deceptively tricky to a pull through onto the upper slab on good holds. Out left to an airy finish.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 22m
  • 8

Start on pockets then some thin bridging in the groove. You can finish out left to the 'Rockaway' belay (M Judge, grade 17) or work up and right through the bulge and left to the chain belay on the upper slab at grade 18. Sam Henehan. March, 2020.
AUOS AUOSAbove Us Only Sky, 17 17 0m 6
0

The steep left edge of the blunt arete.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 4

Steeply up the left hand edge of the blunt arete until it eases off to slab. Angle across right to the 'Lost in Translation' belay.

  • P2
  • 17
  • 6

Work left from the belay then back into the layback corner to the belay bolts on the lip.
LiT LiTLost in Translation, 17 17 0m 5
0

Steeply up the left hand edge of the corner system left of the roof and out onto the arete. Move across right onto the wall above the roof.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 5
P PPetrified, 17 17 0m 5
0

Up to the roof and through the right hand side moving back left above to clip the top bolt of Lost in Translation.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 5
A AAmphora, 15 15 0m 6
2.01

Begin below the roof. Up then right along a narrow ledge. Back left over the top of the roof to a steep section on big holds. Some thin moves over the bulge onto a light grey slab then cross over onto another slabby wall. Easily up ledges to high belay.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 6
AD ADAmphora Direct, 19 19 0m 1
0

Direct through the roof.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 1
DtD DtDDust til Dawn, 18 18 0m 3
1.02

Small to medium cams protect the first half of the climb to the ledge. Pick a line just left of the small roof, passing a bolt on the ledge. Extend with a sling to limit rope drag then up the headwall on excellent holds.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 3
  • Trad
P PPyroclast, 18 18 0m 8
2.01

Begin in scoop in a groove left of the cleft. Up onto knobby shelf and onto the bulging juggy headwall on excellent holds.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 8
V VVesuvius, 21 21 0m 6
1.02

Up edge of arete to the base of the headwall. Technical and powerful moves over the bulge on awesome holds.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 6
FiT FiTFrozen in Time, 15 15 10m
0
  • P1
  • 15
  • 10m

Center of the small face with a few cams and wires.
J JJarhead, 12 12 10m
0

The blocky arete with a few cam placements.

  • P1
  • 12
  • 10m
BA BABuried Alive, 10 10 10m 1
0

Up the juggy corner to a layback move around the roof - one bolt to finish.

  • P1
  • 10
  • 10m
  • 1
BAD BADBuried Alive Direct, 11 11 10m
0
  • P1
  • 11
  • 10m
W WWhakaari, 15 15 10m 5
0

Juggy start with a thinner upper section.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 10m
  • 5
R RRuaumoko, 14 14 10m 5
0

Some fun slab moves.

  • P1
  • 14
  • 10m
  • 5
 Mars Ingenuity, 21 21 0m 4
0

Just left of Level 3 Lockdown. Climb up the mossy, lichen-covered low-angled slabs up to where it becomes overhanging. Ascend the steep crack and move left to reach the bucket hold and continue to the anchor above. Steve Carr had started to bolt the line, then gave it to Bob Chow to finish.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 4
L3L L3LLevel 3 Lockdown, 20 20 0m 6
1.02

Pad up the slab behind the tree and through the weakness in the roof. Pull through onto the top of a truncated flake and up the wall above on pockets and knobs.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 6
WJ WJWindjammer, 16 16 12m 6
0

Great rock down low but gets a bit flaky the higher you go.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 12m
  • 6
BB BBBody Balance, 18 18 12m 5
0

Steep slab just left of the wet streak with a tricky rockover at the top.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 12m
  • 5
P PPoseidon, 31 31 0m 5
0

A steep then overhanging route immediately left of the start of 'Vertical Deep Dish Pizza'. Follow the bolts leftwards under the roof then straight up to the first belay of VDDP.

  • P1
  • 31
  • 5
VDDP VDDPVertical Deep Dish Pizza, 18 18 30m 8
1.02

Locate this buttress approximately 50/70 metres into the trees from the left side of North Buttress area.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 6

Up into the short right facing corner before hanging a sharp left to hand traverse across onto a big ledge. Up again and angle left for a big move up onto a tiny sloping ledge on the point of a sharp arete for a semi-hanging belay.

  • P2
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 8

Continue up the arete then traverse left across the void to another pillar. Edge your way along a narrow ledge and up onto the block. Now straight up the line.
ASB ASBAllan's Snack Bar, 18 18 15m 8
0

Locate the left facing corner midway between 'Vertical Deep Dish Pizza' and 'Bumble' and bridge up this before moving left onto the wall of knobs. Cross over the basalt dike and then up another steep knobby wall to the belay on a small ledge.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 8
CC CCCheesy Crust, 18 18 0m 4
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 4

Step up onto the small ramp and up into the steep groove. Over the bulge on huge holds and then join the top section of 'Bumble'.
B BBumble , 15 15 15m 4
0

Starts at a ramp with ledges and a crack. Up the ledges and into a short, steep crack before moving left onto the wall covered with knobs. Follow the bolts to the top of the knobby slab.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • 4
TP TPThe Sandpit, 13 13 12m 4
0

Starts in the weakness in the centre of the lower tier and up onto big ledges. A high second bolt leads the way out left and up onto a big ledge/shelf. Up the knobs above.

  • P1
  • 13
  • 12m
  • 4

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994c381a-3955-44fb-87ad-253236342e42