Main Cliff Central

(10 routes)

Home of some of the Dunedin classics. Note: In October 2018, trees fell from above the Shark Attack gully, setting off rockfall and destabilising the cliff face above. The tree belay of Crime and Punishment is gone, and it is unknown how unstable the terrain is above these routes, so be aware of the risk of climbing here (Burning Sky to Crime and Punishment).

North East
Walk time: 
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
2 Morning Glory 20 24m
Climb up into the V groove on the arete and make a cruxy move out right onto the face to the finger pockets and small edges. Steeply up to the open groove and onwards to a good belay ledge.
Graham Love, 1984
3 Priapism 21 24m
4bolts wire representing trad
Move L onto buttress after clipping Burning Sky bolt. A bit brittle and contrived.
Jo Kippax, 1992.
4 Burning Sky 19 24m
1bolts wire representing trad
One of the most popular Main Cliff climbs. Easy climbing up to the bolt, then bridge up the hanging corner to a steep final crux. Good pro once you’re past the bolt.
Dave Fearnley, 1980.
4a Burning Sky Direct 20,20 10m
Direct line into the hanging corner of Burning Sky.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Direct line into the hanging corner of Burning Sky.

Steve Carr 2017
5 Strenophobia / Xenophobia 22 25m
6bolts wire representing trad
Graham originally traversed in from the Burning Sky bolt, but the enervating direct start (21) turns a good climb into a great one, marred only by the easy middle section. Sustained climbing through the overlap and up to the horizontal break (large wire), then follow bolts to the final short crack. You can escape up Burning Sky if you can’t do the crux at the final bolt. Graham Love, 1984. Direct start (Strenophobia)
Al Mark, 1985.
6 Shark Attack 20 35m
wire representing trad
Full value adventure climb with occasionally less than perfect rock and pro. Bridge through the bulge, then R to L facing corner. .
Dave Fearnley, 1980.
6a Variant start to Shark Attack 23
2bolts wire representing trad
A tricky direct start to the Shark Attack corner.
Mike Simpson 1999 (equipped by Steve Carr)
7 Love Al Root 20 35m
wire representing trad
Start as for Shark Attack, then up the wide friable crack to the classic layback. Save up a 1.5 CD for the layback crack!
Graham Love, 1984.
8 Crime and Punishment 22 32m
4bolts wire representing trad
The Beach classic. Graham’s first attempt ended with a huge fall when he missed the move for the perma-chalked jug high on the arete. The exposed tenuous climbing still raises the heart rate, even with the extra bolt he placed before his next attempt. Interest is maintained by run-outs on the moderate sections of the climb. Start up the L leaning ramp at the base of the arete, then steeply up pockets into the small hanging corner. Swing L to easier runout climbing above the first bolt (no natural pro past here) to the ledge. Marvelous airy sustained climbing follows the arete to the top. Has been free soloed by Steve Carr and Al Ritchie.
Graham Love, 1984.
9 Slime and Sediment 22 15m
7bolts wire representing trad
A worthwhile variant but the last (old, hangerless) bolt is able to be clipped from C&P, interfering with the exhilarating run-out up to the mid-height ledge of the latter climb.
Craig Hilton, 1988.