Main Cliff Central

Type

Altitude

Part of

Home of some of the Dunedin classics. Note: In October 2018, the tree belay of Crime and Punishment was blown off the wall setting off rockfall and destabilising the cliff face above. It is unknown how unstable the terrain is above these routes, so be aware of the risk of climbing here (Freddy Fudpucker to Crime and Punishment).

Walktime

5min

Aspect

North East

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
2	2Morning Glory, 20	20	24m	8	3
P1 20 24m 8 Climb up into the V groove on the arete and make a cruxy move out right onto the face to the finger pockets and small edges. Steeply up to the open groove and onwards to a good belay ledge.
3	3Priapism, 21	21	24m	4	0
P1 21 24m 4 Trad Move L onto buttress after clipping Burning Sky bolt. A bit brittle and contrived.
4	4Burning Sky, 19	19	24m	1	2.01
P1 19 24m 1 Trad One of the most popular Main Cliff climbs. Easy climbing up to the bolt, then bridge up the hanging corner to a steep final crux. Good pro once you’re past the bolt.
4a	4aBurning Sky Direct, 20	20	10m	5	0
P1 20 10m 5 Direct line into the hanging corner of Burning Sky. P2 20
	Burning Sky Direct-Xenophobia varaint, 22	22	0m	10	2.01
Up the Burning Sky Direct variant but instead of veering left into the Burning Sky groove, continue straight up and over the bulge onto the upper wall of Xenophobia (via the yellow line on the topo). Continue up the centre of the face above to the final crux moves into the finger crack. One piece of gear is needed here or alternatively escape left under the crack to the belay for a great sport route. P1 22 10 Trad
5	5Strenophobia / Xenophobia, 22	22	25m	6	2.01
P1 22 25m 6 Trad Graham originally traversed in from the Burning Sky bolt, but the enervating direct start (21) turns a good climb into a great one, marred only by the easy middle section. Sustained climbing through the overlap and up to the horizontal break (large wire), then follow bolts to the final short crack. You can escape up Burning Sky if you can’t do the crux at the final bolt. Graham Love, 1984. Direct start (Strenophobia)
6	6Shark Attack, 20	20	35m		1.02
P1 20 35m Trad Full value adventure climb with occasionally less than perfect rock and pro. Bridge through the bulge, then R to L facing corner. .
6a	6aVariant start to Shark Attack, 23	23	0m	2	0
P1 23 2 Trad A tricky direct start to the Shark Attack corner.
7	7Love Al Root, 20	20	35m		2.01
P1 20 35m Trad Start as for Shark Attack, then up the wide friable crack to the classic layback. Save up a 1.5 CD for the layback crack!
8	8Crime and Punishment, 22	22	32m	4	3
P1 22 32m 4 Trad The Beach classic. Graham’s first attempt ended with a huge fall when he missed the move for the perma-chalked jug high on the arete. The exposed tenuous climbing still raises the heart rate, even with the extra bolt he placed before his next attempt. Interest is maintained by run-outs on the moderate sections of the climb. Start up the L leaning ramp at the base of the arete, then steeply up pockets into the small hanging corner. Swing L to easier runout climbing above the first bolt (no natural pro past here) to the ledge. Marvelous airy sustained climbing follows the arete to the top. Has been free soloed by Steve Carr and Al Ritchie.
9	9Slime and Sediment, 22	22	15m	7	0
P1 22 15m 7 Trad A worthwhile variant but the last (old, hangerless) bolt is able to be clipped from C&P, interfering with the exhilarating run-out up to the mid-height ledge of the latter climb.

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UUID

928d71c4-17ec-489c-a58f-233b5c6f9469