Organ Pipes Valley

(160 routes)

From Tahurangi Lodge, a large outcrop of rock can be seen on the southern skyline slightly above the level of the Lodge. This is Warwick Castle, with the Organ Pipes Valley (Mangamawhete Headwaters) falling towards the viewer. Lion Rock is on the skyline just above Warwick Castle.

Type: 
Area
Access: 

The best access is from the Stratford Plateau.
Warwick's Castle is the obvious large crag on the skyline to the north.
Follow the Round the Mountain track from the skifield to a little bit past Warwick's Castle, where a spur with vague track leads up towards the crags. the turn-off is marked with a pink flower pot wired into the ground and a small piece of faded pink tape. Follow the spur, which turns into a good track that takes you to the col at the top of Warwick's. To get to the Little Eiger Wall head up the ridge above and sidle under Lion Rock. 1 - 1 1/4 hours from the carpark to Warwick's, another 10-15min to Little Eiger, and then another 10-15mins to Batpole, Main Eiger & Nose areas.

From Tahurangi Lodge, a large outcrop of rock can be seen on the southern skyline slightly above the level of the Lodge. This is Warwick Castle, with the Organ Pipes Valley (Mangamawhete Headwaters) falling towards the viewer. Lion Rock is on the skyline just above Warwick Castle.
From the Lodge sidle south towards Warwick Castle, keeping just below the steeper slopes until reaching a steep drop into a large valley: The Organ Pipes Valley. The valley can be gained by traversing a small scoria slope which has bluffs above and below. This should have you standing in the valley directly below the corner of the Little Eiger on the left and the Eiger Wall. From here it is easy to access any of the crags in this area.
Follow a small rocky rib in the centre of the valley which leads upwards parallel to the Eiger Wall, which is now on your left. To the right and slightly higher up are the Organ Pipes, with the Nose being the biggest pillar and also the lowest base point of the crag.
Continue upwards with the Organ Pipes still on the right for about 100m until a steep narrow gully is encountered, on the right is Snotgobbler Wall.
From the Little Eiger – Eiger Wall corner move south under the Little Eiger. Traverse south past Eiger Wedge, a wedge shaped slab which runs up towards the left most end of Crocodile Tier, which runs back towards the Eiger Wall.
Moving further south onto a ridge which runs from Bear on Crocodile Tier, down past a small outcrop, Lion Rock, and on to the dominant massif of Warwick Castle.

Ice Climbing.
Organ Pipes gives the closest established ice climbing to Tahurangi Lodge. This area has variety, often has rock protection and can give excellent climbing. This area has been a training ground for local ice climbers along with the Policeman.
As you enter the the lower end of Organ Pipes Valley a short steep icefall on the right can give some good sport. Further up the couloir to the left of the Little Eiger gives an steep walk. a short icefall often forms down the red slabs, while the following excellent climb tackles the buttress by the most obvious mountaineering line.

Further up from the Organ Pipes cliff are numerous icy, easy-angled grooves. Pick a line at random, take some rock gear and enjoy some early ice or mixed climbing, generally around grade III.

1 Organ Pipes.
2 Snotgobbler Wall
3 Eiger Wall
4 Little Eiger
5 Crocodile Tier
6 Lion Rock

Lat/Lon: 
-39.294056000000, 174.082317000000
NZMS260: 
P20 034 118
Topo50: 
BJ29 933 500

Places

Type Title Link to edit content
Wall Organ Pipes, Snotgobbler Wall (13 routes)
Wall Organ Pipes, Left of Nose (22 routes)
Wall Organ Pipes, Right of Nose (9 routes)
Wall The Eiger Wall, (left hand side) (5 routes)
Wall Batpole Wall (7 routes)
Wall Eiger Wall (17 routes)
Wall Little Eiger (22 routes)
Wall Crocodile Tier (9 routes)
Crag Lion Rock (5 routes)
Crag Warwick Castle (South Face, Left Side) (38 routes)
Crag Warwick Castle (South Face, Centre & Right Side) (5 routes)
Wall Sunnyside Wall, (Warwick Castle) (8 routes)