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Batpole Wall

Type
Sector
Altitude
1500m
Part of
Organ Pipes Valley

This is really a continuation of the Little Eiger feature. From Little Eiger, walk right around the corner and up the gully beneath the sometimes broken cliff. The first compact wall you come to is the Batpole Wall.

Aspect
North West
Lat/lon
POINT (174.082317 -39.29472)
Topo50
BJ29 933 500
Approach

To descend abseil or lower from the anchor on the ledge.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Java Cat, 24 24 20m
0
  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • Trad

To the left of Return of the Ape. Technical fine climbing with limited small protection.

1 1Return of the Ape, 22 22 25m
0
  • P1
  • 22
  • 25m
  • Trad

Technical steep climbing on polished upper part of wall 15m left and above To the Batpole.

 Project, 25 25 25m 7
3
  • P1
  • 25
  • 25m
  • 7

The wall left of To the Batpole repelled all trad climbers due to the lack of any decent runners and as a result is now a fine sport climb.

2 2To the Batpole, 21 21 30m
2.01
  • P1
  • 21
  • 30m
  • Trad

Scramble up to the base of the smooth wall. Climb the obvious finger crack to the well-worn belay bollard or carry on for another 15m or so over easy broken ground.

3 3Jaded, 21 21 30m
1.02
  • P1
  • 21
  • 30m
  • Trad

The thin seam immediately right of To the Batpole.

4 4Pistol Pete, 21 21 30m
2.01
  • P1
  • 21
  • 30m
  • Trad

Climb broken ground to gain the arête right of Jaded. Belay as for the other routes.

5 5Planet Hemp, 18 18 30m
1.02
  • P1
  • 18
  • 30m
  • Trad

The crack right of the previous three routes. Great layback crack at one third height. Fixed tat to rap off. Belay as for Pistol Pete.

Images

Comments
This place appears in
Taranaki Mount Egmont: a guide for climbers, 2003
Buy this guidebook
Rock Deluxe North, 2013
Buy this guidebook
UUID
 
96f917e4-234a-497a-99d8-98713165f8f3