Organ Pipes, Left of Nose

Type

Part of

The rock in this area, and the adjacent Snotgobbler Wall is some of the best on the mountain. To descend from the Organ Pipes Nose area routes, traverse down to the right across the upper broken wall.

Aspect

South East

Lat/lon

-39.294653,174.081373, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BJ29 932 500

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
22	22Last Exit, 16	16	15m	0
P1 16 15m Trad Move over the overhang, then follow the arête up to a large rock spike. Limited pro.
21	21Another Cute Arête, 11	11	15m	0
P1 11 15m Trad The arête to the left of The Climb I Didn’t Want To Be Associated With. To the left of this climb is a broken laid back section hardly worthy of boxing gloves and roller skates.
20	20The Climb I Didn’t Want To Be Associated With, 13	13	17m	0
P1 13 17m Trad The prominent arête to the left of Herman’s Other Brother.
19	19Herman’s Other Brother, 14	14	16m	0
P1 14 16m Trad Goes over the overhang left of Hangman Herman.
18	18Hangman Herman, 17	17	15m	0
P1 17 15m Trad Climb the middle crack that goes over the overhang.
17	17Little Herman, 15	15	16m	0
P1 15 16m Trad Takes the crack around the overhang on the right.
16	16Wot I Dun Wile I Wernt Prowed, 12	12	16m	0
P1 12 16m Trad An arête. No pro.
15	15Cosmic Corruption, 14	14	40m	0
P1 14 40m Trad Climb the face and the overhang.
14	14Macpac, 15	15	16m	0
P1 15 16m Trad Crack left of Bathroom Wall. Climb to overhang. Go to right of overhang and onto arête. Climb to small square mossy ledge at the top. Friend #2 useful for overhang.
13	13Bathroom Wall, 14	14	16m	0
P1 14 16m Trad The crack left of Mozo. Climb crack to top where you will ﬁnd a small square mossy ledge.
12	12Mozo, 16	16	16m	0
P1 16 16m Trad Crack left of The Arête.
11	11The Arête, 17	17	19m	0
P1 17 19m Trad Prominent arête. Poorly protected. Climb arête directly to the top. Nice climbing away from nasty cracks.
10	10Dr Rock, 14	14	20m	2.01
P1 14 20m Trad First crack right of The Arête, well protected. Crack at 3/4 height. ‘A good first lead’ said the original notes.
9	9Stepladder, 14	14	20m	0
P1 14 20m Trad Climb the ﬂared crack. Friends useful for pro or landing on.
8	8Hot Rod, 16	16	20m	2.01
P1 16 20m Trad Crack splitting the prominent pillar. A good, clean climb. Bolted anchor 10 metres above and left of the top of the route.
7	7Compo, 16	16	16m	0
P1 16 16m Trad A ﬁne crack: avoid bridging off obvious arête at half-height which is considered cheating. Well protected mainly by Hexes 1–4. Cleaned and climbed by Lionel with his arm in a cast, and while on ACC, after one of many motorbike prangs.
6	6Phobia, 15	15	16m	0
P1 15 16m Trad Two cracks to the left of Pirouette. Climb the crack itself.
5	5Pooing On An Arête, 17	17	17m	0
P1 17 17m Trad Starts on arête to the left of Pirouette. The crux is reaching ﬁrst horizontal break in arête. Then continue up easy ground until roof. From there step right into, and ﬁnish up Pirouette.
4	4Pirouette, 15	15	16m	0
P1 15 16m Trad The crack leading to and through the overhang.
3	3Space Invader, 22	22	17m	1.02
P1 22 17m Trad The obvious steep offwidth crack left of the Left Nostril. Requires #4 Camalots.
2	2Tourist Track, 19	19	16m	0
P1 19 16m Trad Climb the face (arête) to left of Left Nostril. Using Left Nostril for protection only continue to the top. Bridging or leaning on the right hand pillar is prohibited.
1	1Left Nostril, 15	15	17m	1.02
P1 15 17m Trad This is the ﬁrst crack in the prominent pillar known as The Nose. Climb the off-width which becomes a chimney. A classic.

Comments

UUID

5f66a772-c3d1-4a0f-a9b3-46f9aa110308