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Organ Pipes, Left of Nose

Type

The rock in this area, and the adjacent Snotgobbler Wall is some of the best on the mountain. To descend from the Organ Pipes Nose area routes, traverse down to the right across the upper broken wall.

Image
Aspect
South East
Lat/lon
POINT (174.081373 -39.294653)
Topo50
BJ29 932 500
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
22 22Last Exit, 16 16 15m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • Trad

Move over the overhang, then follow the arête up to a large rock spike. Limited pro.


21 21Another Cute Arête, 11 11 15m
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • 15m
  • Trad

The arête to the left of The Climb I Didn’t Want To Be Associated With. To the left of this climb is a broken laid back section hardly worthy of boxing gloves and roller skates.


20 20The Climb I Didn’t Want To Be Associated With, 13 13 17m
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • 17m
  • Trad

The prominent arête to the left of Herman’s Other Brother.


19 19Herman’s Other Brother, 14 14 16m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 16m
  • Trad

Goes over the overhang left of Hangman Herman.


18 18Hangman Herman, 17 17 15m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • Trad

Climb the middle crack that goes over the overhang.


17 17Little Herman, 15 15 16m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 16m
  • Trad

Takes the crack around the overhang on the right.


16 16Wot I Dun Wile I Wernt Prowed, 12 12 16m
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • 16m
  • Trad

An arête. No pro.


15 15Cosmic Corruption, 14 14 40m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 40m
  • Trad

Climb the face and the overhang.


14 14Macpac, 15 15 16m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 16m
  • Trad

Crack left of Bathroom Wall. Climb to overhang. Go to right of overhang and onto arête. Climb to small square mossy ledge at the top. Friend #2 useful for overhang.


13 13Bathroom Wall, 14 14 16m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 16m
  • Trad

The crack left of Mozo. Climb crack to top where you will find a small square mossy ledge.


12 12Mozo, 16 16 16m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 16m
  • Trad

Crack left of The Arête.


11 11The Arête, 17 17 19m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 19m
  • Trad

Prominent arête. Poorly protected. Climb arête directly to the top. Nice climbing away from nasty cracks.


10 10Dr Rock, 14 14 20m
2.01

  • P1
  • 14
  • 20m
  • Trad

First crack right of The Arête, well protected. Crack at 3/4 height. ‘A good first lead’ said the original notes.


9 9Stepladder, 14 14 20m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 20m
  • Trad

Climb the flared crack. Friends useful for pro or landing on.


8 8Hot Rod, 16 16 20m
2.01

  • P1
  • 16
  • 20m
  • Trad

Crack splitting the prominent pillar. A good, clean climb. Bolted anchor 10 metres above and left of the top of the route.


7 7Compo, 16 16 16m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 16m
  • Trad

A fine crack: avoid bridging off obvious arête at half-height which is considered cheating. Well protected mainly by Hexes 1–4. Cleaned and climbed by Lionel with his arm in a cast, and while on ACC, after one of many motorbike prangs.


6 6Phobia, 15 15 16m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 16m
  • Trad

Two cracks to the left of Pirouette. Climb the crack itself.


5 5Pooing On An Arête, 17 17 17m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 17m
  • Trad

Starts on arête to the left of Pirouette. The crux is reaching first horizontal break in arête. Then continue up easy ground until roof. From there step right into, and finish up Pirouette.


4 4Pirouette, 15 15 16m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 16m
  • Trad

The crack leading to and through the overhang.


3 3Space Invader, 20 20 17m
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 17m
  • Trad

The obvious steep offwidth crack left of the Left Nostril. Requires #4 Camalots.


2 2Tourist Track, 19 19 16m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 16m
  • Trad

Climb the face (arête) to left of Left Nostril. Using Left Nostril for protection only continue to the top. Bridging or leaning on the right hand pillar is prohibited.


1 1Left Nostril, 15 15 17m
1.02

  • P1
  • 15
  • 17m
  • Trad

This is the first crack in the prominent pillar known as The Nose. Climb the off-width which becomes a chimney. A classic.


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