Organ Pipes, Left of Nose

(22 routes)

The rock in this area, and the adjacent Snotgobbler Wall is some of the best on the mountain. To descend from the Organ Pipes Nose area routes, traverse down to the right across the upper broken wall.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South East
Lat/Lon: 
-39.294653000000, 174.081373000000
NZMS260: 
P20 033 117
Topo50: 
BJ29 932 500
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
22 Last Exit 16 15m
0
wire representing trad
Move over the overhang, then follow the arête up to a large rock spike. Limited pro.
Dave Bolger, Ross Hoffman.
21 Another Cute Arête 11 15m
0
wire representing trad
The arête to the left of The Climb I Didn’t Want To Be Associated With. To the left of this climb is a broken laid back section hardly worthy of boxing gloves and roller skates.
Unknown, Pre 1982.
20 The Climb I Didn’t Want To Be Associated With 13 17m
0
wire representing trad
The prominent arête to the left of Herman’s Other Brother.
Unknown, Pre 1982.
19 Herman’s Other Brother 14 16m
0
wire representing trad
Goes over the overhang left of Hangman Herman.
Unknown, Pre 1982
18 Hangman Herman 17 15m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the middle crack that goes over the overhang.
Kevin Conaglen, Gerry Phillips, 04/82.
17 Little Herman 15 16m
0
wire representing trad
Takes the crack around the overhang on the right.
Unknown, Pre 1982.
16 Wot I Dun Wile I Wernt Prowed 12 16m
0
wire representing trad
An arête. No pro.
Unknown, Pre 1982.
15 Cosmic Corruption 14 40m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the face and the overhang.
Ross Eden, Mike Ellis, 06/03/83.
14 Macpac 15 16m
0
wire representing trad
Crack left of Bathroom Wall. Climb to overhang. Go to right of overhang and onto arête. Climb to small square mossy ledge at the top. Friend #2 useful for overhang.
Vaughn Keighley, Ross Hoffman, 30/04/92.
13 Bathroom Wall 14 16m
0
wire representing trad
The crack left of Mozo. Climb crack to top where you will find a small square mossy ledge.
Ross Hoffman, Vaughn Keighley, 30/04/92.
12 Mozo 16 16m
0
wire representing trad
Crack left of The Arête.
Kevin Conaglen, Gerry Phillips, 04/82.
11 The Arête 17 19m
0
wire representing trad
Prominent arête. Poorly protected. Climb arête directly to the top. Nice climbing away from nasty cracks.
Nigel Shepherd, Nick Banks, Paul O’Dowd, 18/04/82.
10 Dr Rock 14 20m
2.01
wire representing trad
First crack right of The Arête, well protected. Crack at 3/4 height. ‘A good first lead’ said the original notes.
Ross Hoffman, Dave Bolger, 13/01/91.
9 Stepladder 14 20m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the flared crack. Friends useful for pro or landing on.
Richard Kirk, Lionel Clay, 02/03/84.
8 Hot Rod 16 20m
2.01
wire representing trad
Crack splitting the prominent pillar. A good, clean climb. Bolted anchor 10 metres above and left of the top of the route.
Nick Banks, Ross Corbett, 04/82.
7 Compo 16 16m
0
wire representing trad
A fine crack: avoid bridging off obvious arête at half-height which is considered cheating. Well protected mainly by Hexes 1–4. Cleaned and climbed by Lionel with his arm in a cast, and while on ACC, after one of many motorbike prangs.
Lionel Clay, Richard Kirk, 02/03/84.
6 Phobia 15 16m
0
wire representing trad
Two cracks to the left of Pirouette. Climb the crack itself.
John Edwards, Pete Swanson, 04/82.
5 Pooing On An Arête 17 17m
0
wire representing trad
Starts on arête to the left of Pirouette. The crux is reaching first horizontal break in arête. Then continue up easy ground until roof. From there step right into, and finish up Pirouette.
Lionel Clay (solo), 22/12/85.
4 Pirouette 15 16m
0
wire representing trad
The crack leading to and through the overhang.
Ross Eden, Phil Roberts, 06/03/83.
3 Space Invader 20 17m
1.02
wire representing trad
The obvious steep offwidth crack left of the Left Nostril. Requires #4 Camalots.
Nick Banks, Nigel Shepherd, 04/82.
2 Tourist Track 19 16m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the face (arête) to left of Left Nostril. Using Left Nostril for protection only continue to the top. Bridging or leaning on the right hand pillar is prohibited.
Lionel Clay, Richard Kirk, 30/03/85.
1 Left Nostril 15 17m
1.02
wire representing trad
This is the first crack in the prominent pillar known as The Nose. Climb the off-width which becomes a chimney. A classic.
Unknown, Pre 1982.