Organ Pipes, Snotgobbler Wall

(13 routes)

This is 70m up from the last climb on the Organ Pipes, essentially on the same piece of rock when it gets steeper again. All climbs here are on excellent rock. The name of the wall deserves some explanation: Snotgobbler is a character in an excellent book called Fungus the Bogeyman. Fungus the Bogeyman is the name of a good climb in Hongis Valley.
The rock in this area, and the adjacent Organ Pipes is some of the best on the mountain.


To descend from Snotgobbler Wall, scramble up for about 5m, then traverse left into a gully.

-39.294188000000, 174.081202000000
P20 033 118
BJ29 932 500
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Daft Punt 14 15m
wire representing trad
The corner left of Left Behind. Follow crack and step right near the top.
Ross Hoffman, Alec Heilbron, 21/03/99.
2 Left Behind 14 15m
wire representing trad
The left most deep groove. Exit left around overhang. This route derives its name from the forgetfulness of the second to provide transport up the mountain for the lead. Fortunately, after some cellular phone calls they were able to combine on the climb.
Greg Banks, Chris Hill, 12/12/98.
3 Noise Control 15 15m
wire representing trad
The clean face between Left Behind and Diarrhoeic Golliwogs. After the horizontal break move right and up easy crack (going direct at the break is 19).
Dave Bolger, Glen Aspin, 24/01/99.
4 Diarrhoeic Golliwogs 14 25m
wire representing trad
The left facing corner with a peg at half height. Exit right below the overhang.
M Andrews, Ross Eden, Pete Swanson, 02/81.
5 Mastitis Soup 15 25m
wire representing trad
Climb the crack on finger jams to good jugs over blocks at the top.
Ross Eden, Lionel Clay, 04/01/84.
6 Poms Unite 15 20m
wire representing trad
Climb the crack in the slight groove through the overhanging blocks.
Phil Roberts, John Edge, 03/83.
7 The Jerball’s Traverse of the Gluteus Maximus 17 20m
wire representing trad
Climb the arête using Poms Unite and Childishly Pointless for protection only. At three-quarters height cross into, and finish up Poms Unite.
K Gover, Bruce Telford, 02/87.
8 Childishly Pointless 16 23m
wire representing trad
Climb mainly on fingers and tight hands. Ledges give good rests.
Stuart Skene, Richard Kirk, Lionel Clay, John Edwards, 04/84.
9 Tales of Mystery and Imagination 17 20m
wire representing trad
Climb the deep left facing corner, direct over the two bulges. Beautiful jamming.
Stuart Skene, Phil Roberts, 19/03/83.
10 Snotgobbler 16 20m
wire representing trad
The wide crack that splits the pillar. Good jam crack. A variation exists at two thirds height: follow cracks, moving left and onto the top.
Pete Swanson, Ross Eden, 02/83.
11 Grooving Together 16 20m
wire representing trad
Climb the arête using the cracks on either side.
Ross Eden, Lionel Clay, 04/03/84.
12 Speechless 17 20m
wire representing trad
Climb shallow V-groove and then the crack left at small overhang onto ledge. Then climb the crack up to and direct through the overhang.
Neville Dickson, Lionel Clay, 02/84.
Nose Gully WI1
A good, short introduction to steep snow climbing early in the season. This gully fills with snow after heavy or repeated falls