Little Eiger

Start up the centre of the appealing small slab left of the main wall. Head up and then left to a crack that leads to the top of the wall.

Start as for EIA but trend right then up passing two ledges. A small cam is useful near the top, otherwise protection is sparse.

Start as for EIA but continue right to finish up the right edge of the slab.

Starting further right, follow the crack/groove feature to the broken arête above.

Look for a rusty piton about 2.5m above the ground, above a red-stained rock. Climb to the piton then up the cracks above. It is possible to fashion a belay on a ledge below the overhangs or, if you have a very long rope, you could finish the climb as a single pitch through the overhangs and up a mossy groove to glory.

Start as for VSC. From the piton, move up and right to a good ledge. Finish up the corner above and slightly left.

A few metres right of Longdrop, head up next to a smooth wall to gain blocky ground and a belay ledge. Continue right then up the vague groove/arête feature and finish as for Space Truckin’.

Start up a jam crack, heading for the obvious protruding block. Belay under the block, if you dare, then move up a groove to the left and on to the exit crack. Scramble up mossy slabs and park your rig on the summit.

Climbs the most obvious corner/V-groove on the wall. To gain the groove, scramble up a right facing corner. You can belay at the bottom of the groove, but beware some loose blocks.

The name may be stolen from a route at Titahi Bay, but the route itself is classic Egmont. Shares a start with Commodores and Fingers on a Landscape. Start up the right facing corner past a piton at 5m. At the white band, go left to gain the left-most crack on the wall. Follow this to the top. Can be climbed as one or two pitches.

Start as for Regular Rowt but continue up the main crack to the top. The top-out is a little underwhelming.

A great route. Start as for Regular Rowt but at the white band head right to gain a seam in the compact face. Climb the seam to finish as for Commodores. Take plenty of small wires and cams. Anti-revolutionary revisionists wanted to change the name to ‘Figures in a Landscape’

Sounds less than ideal! Charge up the obvious line right of Commodores all the way to the top. The ‘first ascent’ was claimed as a two-pitch grade 22 affair with some aid moves. Lionel Clay put things right two days later, giving it 19.

Above the initial overhangs, step right then commit to the wall above. Near the top, head left to join IPC. Take smalls wires and lots of courage.

‘ … welcome to this hole, let’s strap on a guitar and play some rock and roll.’ Or so the song goes. The right-most crack with good gear the whole way. Note: is now revegetated.

The thin elegantly sculptured arête right of Stranger to this Planet. Take a long neck. Finished on the half-height ledge at start of The Slug Patrol.

This route starts from the half-height ledge which runs in from the Little Eiger-Eiger Wall corner; due to loose conditions and wet moss, traversing along this ledge is not recommended. A more stylish and interesting approach is to climb Jim Collins Hits Egmont to the belay stance on top of the large boulder—the chock stone in off-width can be used for belay. Start the climb about a metre to the left of the cited chock stone and follow the fist-crack to the top.

The twin cracks right of the large wet corner. Start up the loose blocks past three very old in-situ pegs. Climb one of the hand-to-fist sized cracks. The original route took the right-hand crack, but better climbing and belaying is found by taking the left hand crack to the base of The Slug Patrol thus beginning a splendid sunny two-pitch climb. Jim Collins was apparently a pseudonym for Chris Morris.

The capped right facing groove just right of Jim Collins Hits Egmont. Sustained climbing with a strenuous roof at the top. Leader rested on rope during first ascent.

Climb the right hand side of the site of the shattered arête which has now blown away. Note this is the same arête described as ‘fairly stable’ in the previous edition!! Climb to the sloping ledge. Move up corner crack, laybacking or jamming, to second ledge. Finish by climbing last 3m on a small face. Despite the demise of the much lamented arête the climb is still possible and still 16, but is not altogether safe or recommended.

Start as for Prescription Poison until sloping ledge. Traverse right into the slightly overhanging crack. Climb crack direct. The first ascensionist described this route as being particularly desperate, but not in those precise words.

A short icefall often forms down the red slabs.