Little River Crag

(104 routes)

Please consider the crag as closed.
A "prepossessing" crag with some impressive routes over 30 metres high. The median grade is 19, and the harder routes tend to be cleaner and better. Extensive cleaning recently has improved many of the routes that were formerly very dirty.
Orientation. (a few distinctive climbs to get your bearings) from left to right.
Fat Fingered Fantasy: The left facing corner with the thin crack.
Chinese Burn: The right facing corner with the fist jamcrack.
Serenity: Halfway up is a large detached block, and a bolt near the top.
Hubris; A brown corner system, with a roof to the right of the climb.
Hello Possums: Starts with the jagged crack
Monarch: The prominent right-facing corner with a huge roof on the right.
The Ghost of Tom Joad: Look for the middle line of new bolts. undercut start.
Big Mama; The black streak to the right of the fence 3bolts.
Featureless Fault: The brown streaked shallow corner, with the tower above. Includes 2bolts low down.

The cliff is very pleasant on a hot mid-summer nor-west day since it's shady and vegetated. In winter it tends to remain wet.
History
Another Lindsay Main find, with the first route on the cliff beingEclipse (16) in January 1975. In 1977 he climbed *Monarch (18) free with Henry Mares, who put up The Pretender (17). A break-through was made in October 1979, with the ascent of *Brain Damage (20), after which John McCallum and Joe Arts started to take an interest, with many good routes developed in the 1980s and 90s. Later Alan Hill, Richard Kimberley, and Pete Gresham added a new crop of routes prior to the crag being closed for a decade in 2004.
Recent efforts have focused on cleaning routes and installing anchors, and many of the routes have now been brought up to standard.
Climbing Notes
The walking track round the base of the cliff may need maintenance from time to time. The rock is sometimes shattered, especially near the base of the cliff. Descents are by abseil, often from a tree, though more ring anchors are being established. Some abseils require two ropes.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
150m
Aspect: 
South East
Walk time: 
20 mins
Access: 

Please consider the crag as closed.
Permission MUST be obtained from the owners, Sarah and Tony Mallinson of Geraldine. Phone 03 6938515. If you reach the answerphone, do not ask for them to return your call, as this is an unfair imposition. It's best to start calling a couple of days in advance, as they can be hard to contact.

The climbing area is 50km from Christchurch, on the Akaroa highway 1km short of Little River township, about 150 metres above the highway. Park at a gate below the cliff, just short of the trees. Walk directly up the hill near the boundary fence, switching back south and then north to avoid the steep bits, and arriving at the crag just south of the pine plantation.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.783020770000, 172.770046720000
NZMS260: 
N36 915138
Topo50: 
BY24 815 522
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
AL Above the Limit 20 10m
0
3bolts
The start of the climb is found a few metres left of the top of "Beyond the Limit". climb the line of bolts on the steep slab, just to the left of the crack. Rap station at the top.
Grant Piper 2015
BL Beyond the Limit 17 18m
0
wire representing trad
Found on the left end of the crag, (double back onto a ledge). Starts up a slab with a thin crack on the left, when the crack peters out, move right to next thin crack, then follow out the top to the rap station.
Kevin Barratt 2015
Outer Limits 15 25m
0
wire representing trad
Almost on the left margin of the crag. Scramble up through the scrub to the ledge to start the climb. Start up a short steep crack which leads to a shallow curving groove. Balance up on good holds past a microcam and gain the arête above, leading to a ledge with trees. Abseil off a tree in the corner.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Tree2tree 16 30m
0
wire representing trad
Vegetated. Start up an awkward steep left-facing corner past bushes to gain an open area, and take a crack heading right. At the grassy ledge cruise up to the right past several trees to reach a steep black corner angling left, with loose blacks. Pull on to the slab on the left and climb easily through to the top. Fixed anchor slings.
Hugh Logan, 2015
Fat Fingered Fantasy 22 12m
2.01
wire representing trad
Climb the inviting left facing corner. Small cams are useful.
Kevin Barratt 2015
Wooden Jugs 15 45m
0
wire representing trad
The left-most of a set of cracks and corners. Start either left (easier) or right side of a triangular feature below a corner-crack. Climb up fairly easily past a few small trees to a grassy area beside a prominent buttress on the right. Angle left through the trees to a prominent crack (crux) and climb this to finish either under a bush or to the right on a knobbly wall. Abseil from the large tree five or six metres up , angling north to descend the right side of the buttress to meet the intermediate anchor. As it's 45 metres it needs two abseils, unless you use two ropes.
Hugh Logan, 2015
HW Hard Wired 20 30m
2.01
4bolts wire representing trad
Move up left facing corner, until capped by the roof. move leftwards, then clip the bolt, once above roof height, move rightwards back into a corner, escape the roof rightwards then work your way up the slab past 2 bolts. At the ledge clip the bolt go left and up to the rap station. PS, take RPs/ brassies + wires and a few small cams.
Grant Piper 2015
Rib Tickler 22 30m
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad
Start up face with 3 bolts, passing through the small roof. Carry on up to shallow crack, moving straight up, then veer left onto the ledge. From the ledge climb up hanging flake above with good wires in the upper part of the flake. Finish up the steep groove to top out using the rap station above Hard Wired.
Kevin Barratt 2015
The Long March 17 40m
0
wire representing trad
A route of over 40 metres, and most of it is on rock! Start on the left side of the obvious corner in the middle of the wall, following a thin crack angling into the corner. Then bridge up (goods jugs on the left wall) to climb past the pruned tree and gain the grassy ledge with the abseil tree. Move slightly left to the buttress and layback to a small ledge; then follow a thin crack angling right near the edge of the wall. Gain the rock ledge and climb the short undercut exit crack (crux at the start). Scramble to the big tree about six metres up to anchor and abseil.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Dora the Explorer 16 ,17 40m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the corner as for The Long March to the grassy ledge and anchor at the kanuka tree.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11615mYes
 Climb the corner as for The Long March to the grassy ledge and anchor at the kanuka tree.
21725mYes
 Go rightwards to system of double flared cracks, climb cracks and veer leftwards to top of crag.
Kevin Barratt 2015
Pre-emptive Strike 16 15m
0
wire representing trad
Start at the base of the corner and bridge up to the roof (good gear in the crack). Step out on to the arête and climb a nice crack, then over a block and left to the anchor.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Compact Adventure 18 12m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Direct start to Pre-emptive Strike. Climb past bolt to the roof, and finish as for Pre-emptive Strike
Grant Piper 2015
FOMO 16 15m
0
wire representing trad
An obvious crack three metres right, marred only by very shattered rock in the first three metres. After that a friendly crack and good bridging opens up the route through the top crack and out to a vegetated ledge. Move left about 5 metres to the abseil slings at the top of the previous route.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Fly by Wire 18 15m
0
wire representing trad
2metres left of Chinese Burn. Climb the crack though the bulge on to easier angled terrain. At the top, go leftwards to the rap station.
Grant Piper 2015
CB Chinese Burn 18 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
The climb is found on a crag approximately 50m left of the main crag, (follow around the base). Jam up the steep R-Hand corner to the ledge. then follow up weakness to top. A few large cams are useful. Rap station is leftwards above Compact Adventure.
Kevin Barratt 2015
Braille For Beginners 18 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
Further right is the Akeake Wall, where a number a large akeake trees with distinctive stringy red bark grace the base of the crag.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Wood Is Good 18 15m
0
wire representing trad
Start on the right side of the tree with a big two-hand jug, and leg-wrap the tree to gain a stable position on the wall. Sling a branch of the tree, move up, and sling a higher branch. A couple of tricky gain a rest position with two good placements for small cams. Move through to the corner and place microwires in the right crack. Bridge up and step right to the arête, then step left to the anchor.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Grand Designs 18 20m
0
wire representing trad
Start as for Wood Is Good with a sling runner on a high branch and move right to the right-facing corner. Place gear and step across; climb the small pillar to a rest. Then smear up the deceptively tricky low-angle corner to the top. Either step across low to the anchor for WIG (hidden in the grass), or continue up and right to finish as for Serenity.
Lindsay Main, 2016
Monkey Puzzle 17
0
1bolts wire representing trad
A right-facing corner and double crack with an undercut base. Start to the right and climb across the tree and onto the rock below the right-hand crack. Place microwires and move left using hidden holds and edges (crux). Climb the small semi-detached pillar and move to the right crack and up to join the finish of Serenity, past the pruned hebe on its right and onto the upper wall with one bolt.
Hugh Logan, 2015
Serenity 19 25m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
"How's the serenity?" A line in the middle of the wall marked out by a prominent arching pillar halfway up. Some delicate moves to gain the crack and gear (small cams); then climb the crack to a ledge below the pillar. Surmount the pillar and climb past the right side of a hebe to gain the headwall, then up past a bolt to an anchor station.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Two Right Hands 19 20m
1.02
wire representing trad
Start at the same point but balance up carefully to a ledge on the right. Climb the narrowing pillar, bridging to the crack on the left (protection) At the top of the pillar jam though the roof (good jam just out of reach), and continue up the easier crack above to an anchor slightly right, just below the grass.
Lindsay Main, 2015
This Way Up 18 20m
0
wire representing trad
Overhanging left-facing corner with a crack on the right wall. Boulder up the crumbling lower wall and jam up the crack with good gear to the big ledge. Then easily up the wide crack above and to the anchor of New Broom.
Lindsay Main, 2015
New Broom 19 20m
0
wire representing trad
Start off the horizontal akeake tree and balance up on sloping holds to gain the crack and micro-wires. Place better gear from a jam on the left and manoeuvre up the crack to finally reach an easier section.
Hugh Logan, 2015
George of the Jungle 16 15m
0
wire representing trad
Crash through the scrub leftwards, from near the top of Collision Course, climb the small cracks. Go rightwards to pick up the Hubris rap-station. Not worthy of a second ascent!
Grant Piper, Kevin Barratt, 2016
Collision Course 21 18m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Climb up to then use the flared crack with the 2bolts to the left of the crack. At the top of the flared crack span leftwards, then climb crack system, to where the angle eases off. Move rightwards to the top of Clipencrack, and rap station.
Grant Piper 2016
Clipencrack 23 18m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
The thin slightly over hung crack on the face to the left of Hubris. Start up the ramp, gain the crack. When the crack stops being positive, go up the crimpy face to the left past the bolt, regain the crack to the rap station.
Kevin Barratt 2015
Hs Hubris 17 28m
1.02
wire representing trad
At the west end of the crag just before it is broken by a large gulley lies the Hubris Wall. The obvious central blocky corner is Hubris the route. Start up a weakness in the lava flow contact with a cam in the pocket and a nut behind a knob. Follow the corner with a technical crux at half height (protected with a 0 micro nut) and a psychological crux at the top. Double ring bolt anchor and mostly excellent gear.
Felix Collins, 2015
Poster Boy 22 18m
1.02
4bolts wire representing trad
Ascend the prow to the right ot the Hubris corner. Start just right of Hubris, veering right onto the small ledge. From the ledge, go up under roof, go left around the roof then up the face to the horizontal break. Climb past the 4th and bolt onto the top of the prow, and up to the rap station.
Kevin Barratt 2015
Ministry of Foreign Development 16 ,16 35m
0
wire representing trad
Worthwhile climb of 2 halves, almost all on rock. Pitch 1 bridging in a groove followed by Pitch 2 climbing on a prominent rib. Takes a full range of gear from micro's to large friends. 2 abseils down unless you've brought along a second rope.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11617mYes
 The corner / groove just right of Poster Boy to a DBA.
21618mYes
 Start a meter right of the DBA, following a straight line of cracks and blocks up an open rib to a selection of tree anchors.
Justin Hall, Hamish Castle (01 May 2016)
The Black Drain 15
0
wire representing trad
The obvious water gulley to the left of The Black Slab can be climbed with little difficulty and reasonable protection. The crux is at the exit to the large grassy ledge where this route joins TBS. Rappel from tree here or finish up TBS (16).
Felix Collins 2015
The Black Slab 16 30m
0
wire representing trad
Some 50 metres right of the Hubris wall is a gully in an area clear of vegetation. At the back of the gully is an obvious black slab. Start on the right of the slab staying on the cleaner rock and following the available small wire placements up and left to a block/ledge/flake thing. This gets slightly run out but on easy ground. Head further left (double ropes would be useful to avoid rope drag) and up the water gully to gain the large vegetated ledge that splits the cliff at this point. From here it is possible to access the top of other nearby climbs. Head up the grass gully left of the buttress in front of you until it can be regained by swinging up and right. Climb the bulgy blocky buttress to the short final slab. Belay and rappel off double ring bolts shared with the route to the right..
Felix Collins 2015
TBS Direct 21
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Same start as The Black Slab (TBS) but head straight up. At the ledge where TBS heads left to the gully, climb the slab directly with increasing difficulty past three small wire placements and finally a bolt. Do not grab the tree! Either rappel off the trees or continue up the top of TBS.
Felix Collins 2015
Arc Angel 17 25m
0
wire representing trad
At the edge of the black slab scramble up past two trees and climb the obvious black corner arching to the left. Above the tree from the vegetated ledge climb the leftward arcing crack, widening from hand to offwidth - watch out for wedging at the top. Can be used as an escape from Somewhat Awkward. Shares the double ring belay with TBS.
Matthew Crombie 2015
Somewhat Awkward 17 25m
0
wire representing trad
From the track scramble past 2 trees . Nicely climb the slab and left most corner crack. From the vegetated ledge, protect carefully before awkwardly figuring your way into the obvious vertical crack/open corner, exit the top, take care with rope run.
Mathew Crombie 2015
Tarzan Lives 18 35m
0
wire representing trad
The next route starts in the bush about 10 metres further right. An arboreal experience at the start, followed by quite a bit of good climbing. Swing up through the trees in a left-facing corner, using slings and large cams for pro. At some point move left across the wall to climb thin cracks with wires, culminating with a move right below a large dead tree to gain the grassy ledge. Minimise this by climbing a short slab to gain the right-facing overhanging jam crack. Good jams and cams to the lip (crux), followed by an easy corner through the bush and a short slab to finish to a tree with an anchor sling and ring. Two abseils may be required for descent – the second from one of the lower trees.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Planet Of The Apes 15 32m
0
wire representing trad
About five metres right, and 20 metres left of Hello Possums, starting in a V-groove facing left, and curving left above a ledge. After an awkward start gain the ledge and climb the corner over a perilously leaning block that seems to be secure. Climb up to the left of a large dead akeake, and scramble up the grass and head slightly left to the crack above. In the lower chimney section use the left rib to gain the crack Continuous crack climbing eases at the top to a nicely located abseil /belay tree. A second abseil from a tree may be needed to reach the ground.
Lindsay Main, 2015
HP Hello Possums 18 30m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
At the end of the track is an open slab with two cracks: the left very dirty, and the right a ragged crack veering left. Start just right of the small bush two metres up and pull into the crack,; then follow the hand crack left, Continue up finger crack past bush, and step left at the prominent block to a nice crack giving access to the grassy ledge. (The pitch is sometimes split with a belay here). Balance up the narrow prow to the bolt and step up (crux), then past the second bolt to the final blocks, finishing on the right to the abseil tree with a fixed chain around it.
Peter Gresham, 2002 (start);
Ovine Inspiration 16 26m
0
wire representing trad
Start in the broad corner with two cracks as for Small Print Route, and five metres up move left across the grassy ledge to the wide crack and parallel groove with a tree. Up past this to the right-facing upper corner. Crux at the top; anchors to the right as for SPR.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Small Print Route 20 26m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
This features a distinctive right-angled corner, 5m right of Hello Possums. Scramble up the wide lower cracks and climb the black groove to the steepening right-facing corner. From an undercling bridge out left (crux) and lurch onto the sloping ledge. Climb the slab and incipient crack, moving left to a bolt and up to the anchors. Protection is challenging at times and requires small wires, including micro-wires.
Pete Gresham, 2005 (start);
Murine Desperation 17 28m
0
Start at Small Print Route and climb the right side crack to the large stacked blocks. Up the left side of these to a short corner with a bulge; however step right and climb the face through the bushes. Up the nice corner-crack with a strenuous move past the bush (crux) to a small grassy ledge. Easier crack climbing leads to the anchor rings on the left wall.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Louise Wallace 20
0
wire representing trad
About 10 metres right. Start at a jam crack and hump your way up the adjacent rib to a sloping ledge. Move right and jam a crack in a right-facing corner. Step left and climb a thin crack up a slab and through a small roof, and eventually to a ledge with a broadleaf tree. There’s a second pitch also. Note: this route seems to have lost a useful block, and may be much harder now.
Alan Hill, Richard Kimberley, 2003
Power Failure 19 ,17 35m
0
wire representing trad
Climb through scrub to a grassy ledge. Easy climbing leads to the crack going left in the corner. Pull through the roof and climb the crack to the ledge. Belay at tree on left.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11920mYes
 Climb through scrub to a grassy ledge. Easy climbing leads to the crack going left in the corner. Pull through the roof and climb the crack to the ledge. Belay at tree on left.
21715mYes
 Climb short crack to OH, move R and through notch and up to tree belay.
Alan Hill,
Euclid Gully 16 30m
0
wire representing trad
This is a large, low-angled gully with trees. Originally it was heavily cleaned but has reverted to its former condition. Start below an overhang beside a lemonwood tree and climb a grassy corner leading right, then curving around to the left and finishing up a steep dirty crack (crux), which is badly in need of cleaning..
Henry Mares, 1977
Attrition 18 28m
0
wire representing trad
Start up a shallow corner behind a pruned kawakawa bush. Nice moves up small ledges protected by small wires, with a step right on to the slab. Up past the bushes to the crack on the right wall. Climb past the gorse stumps and grasp a small tree, then move around the roof and up the short right-facing corner. Step left to the ledge, before moving right to gain cracks to the anchor for Mercury Reaches Zero.
Lindsay Main, 2015
Mercury Reaches Zero 23 28m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
A long arête route to commemorate Auckland's 1998 power failure. There is a triangular boulder about five metres back from the cliff. Start on a brushed slab and climb a grassy crack to a ledge, then up the arête, moving right from the bolts to yellowish rock and up to the roof. Climb the thin crack through the roof and follow cracks to the top.
Joe Arts, 1998
Beast With Teeth 20 30m
0
wire representing trad
An obvious corner-crack with a roof at 15 metres and a crack above. Start up the corner and pass under a small tree a few metres up to grassy ledges below a broad corner. Climb up and out through the roof to do battle with the steep crack above. Then exit up an easy crack and abseil off a tree. Good protection including small cams.
Lindsay Main, 2014
MC Manufacturing Consent 22 30m
2.01
7bolts wire representing trad
Another long route, up the arête left of Monarch. Start in a small groove and move rightward past various cracks to the first bolt, then right and up to the roof. Delicate footwork leftward on to the arête, then up following the bolts rightward with the crux move to gain a crack leading to the top. Seven bolts and natural protection.
Joe Arts, 1999
M Monarch 18 30m
2.01
wire representing trad
The prominent right-facing corner with a striking exit through the left side of a huge roof, which is easier than appearances would suggest. The lower part needs cleaning. Use the anchors to the left.
Lindsay Main, 1977
If Pigs Could Fly 18 30m
0
Meanders around the sty looking for a way out. Scramble up the start of M., or climb up the groove (15). Move R across the slab (crux, pro from crack) to reach the R corner. Up to the lower roof and then R onto the wall. Across to and u p the R crack, then hand-traverse back L to reach the corner above the main roof. Vegetated finish - move L.
Lindsay Main '80
Friendzy 22 30m
0
The direct exit from the big roof. The crux move is hand jamming to turn the roof.
Brian Fish '81
Thick as Thieves 15 ,15 30m
2.01
wire representing trad
Can be readily climbed as one 30-metre pitch.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11515mYes
 In between the starts of Friendzy and Nutpicker a ramp / slab leads up and slightly left to exit onto sloping ledges at the base of a buttress, DBA.
21515mYes
 Climb the buttress via a crack before it traverses left to join the final corner of Friendzy above the overhang, improbable terrain for the grade - well protected, DBA .
Justin Hall, Matt Crombie (14 Nov 2015)
N Nutpicker 19 30m
0
wire representing trad
Start 10 metres right of Monarch at a small boulder pile beside a two metre boulder. The lower part of the climb is low-angled and scrubby, eventually leading to a steeper corner. Climb the thin crack on the right wall of the corner (crux), bridging to the corner at the top. Pretty grotty overall.
Lindsay Main, 1978
Otway's Clearing 22 32m
1.02
5bolts wire representing trad
A 35 metre arête starting at the base of Nutpicker. Climb a scrubby slab past a fuchsia and move right to the arête. Up the broad arête, moving right past the bolts and then back to the left above the small roof to finish. Anchor rings as for The Pretender.
Joe Arts, 1998
TP The Pretender 17 30m
2.01
wire representing trad
Three metres right is this corner with a beaten up broadleaf. Squeeze up though a shallow niche to ledges and gain the tree; then it's a perfect crack with bridging all the way. Anchor rings are to the left. Take plenty of biggish gear.
Henry Mares, 1977
Caracus 22 35m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Four metres right of The Pretender. Start on a rib above a gnarled tree leaning towards the road. Place a large cam in a crack on the right and move left and climb a thin crack over a bulge. Step left on to the arête and climb the slab above past a bolt to the headwall, which involves steep climbing up a thin crack with natural protection to an anchor bolt just below the cliff top.
Joe Arts, 1999.
Soft Option 14 28m
0
wire representing trad
Four metres right in a clearing is this V-corner with shrubs. Climb the corner to a ledge with a tree, then move left to the second corner and up past vegetation to the anchor rings.
Lindsay Main, 1980
Gardener's Groove 16 26m
1.02
wire representing trad
The right-angle corner three metres right. At the ledge step slightly right and move up to the prominent crack. Good jamming up the crack (crux), with a final slab to the anchor rings on the left.
Lindsay Main, 1976
Trisector 18 25m
0
wire representing trad
The upper part of this route forms an obvious V-groove. Start up a corner about three metres right of Gardeners Groove. Ring anchors on the ledge.
Joe Arts, 2015
EC Energy Crisis 19 20m
0
wire representing trad
Start three metres right up a black groove with shrubs, and climb the wide overhanging crack through the large overhang. Anchor rings are to the left.
Lindsay Main, 1980
Dissect Her 19 30m
0
wire representing trad
Start 2m right of Energy Crisis. Climb the rib behind crooked tree and step right to stand on large jammed block. Make a tricky high step to the left and up; then step back right onto ledge. At the overlap overlap move up and right to top of yellow corner. Climb the blocky V groove to the grassy ledge and tree, then fight your way up a dirty crack to a grass and dirt struggle at the top. Abseil from an olearia tree or the Bisector anchor rings. Watch for rope drag.
Paul Stevens, 2005
Vivisector 19 30m
0
wire representing trad
Start just R again, up R-facing corner. At steeper yellow section step L onto ledge and gear, then layaway round protruding block at top of corner. Finish up groove of Dissect Her.
Alan Hill, 2005
B Bisector 16 28m
0
wire representing trad
Recently cleaned. A right-facing corner with a wide crack, topped by a small roof. Start on a platform and climb a slabby left wall to the corner-crack, with good gear and bridging. Above the roof climb a short knobbly wall to gain a nice crack in the corner on the right with anchor rings below the tree.
Stu Allan, 1976
CT The Comeback Trail 19 25m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start two metres right in a small left-facing V-corner and move left to small tree (sling runner), surmount a ledge five metres up and continue to a left-curving crack. Climb this to a bolt beside a pocket, move right and pull on to the slab past a second bolt. One-rope abseil from the rings.
Lindsay Main, 1999
Chasing Tail 19
0
wire representing trad
Start three metres right. Climb right side of broad arête using both trees for assistance; then follow the diagonal line to a crack on the left. Climb this, moving right to another crack or on to the slab and gain the large vegetated ledge. Angle up through the trees to arrive at twin cracks. Climb the left crack with good pro, and move right to a small tree and steep but straightforward exit corner. Abseil from a tree.
Pete Gresham, 2003
The Future Eaters 19 28m
2.01
6bolts wire representing trad
Start on the left side of the broad rounded buttress, beside a mutilated tree. Past the first bolt to balance moves at the third bolt, where a thin crack leads left. Place gear and climb the crack to a ledge on the left. A high clip is followed by committing moves to the next bolt, or move right and place a cam in the crack before moving back to the bolt. (Unclip the cam to reduce drag.) Then balance and smear up the arête with a move to the right to gain the ledge and ring anchors.
Joe Arts, 2014
The Ghost of Tom Joad 18 30m
1.02
5bolts wire representing trad
On the right side of the buttress. Start on the tree and pull up through the overhang past the first bolt to easier climbing. At the ledge move right and climb the crack before stepping up past the fifth bolt. Then follow the zig-zag cracks to the right and back left to the top ledge, with the ring anchors just above.
Joe Arts, 2014
Hairline Fracture 22 27m
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad
Start up steep wall through sequence of holds past 3 bolts. Gain the small ledge to the right of the thin crack. Veer leftwards over onto the slab with a crack, then finish off the last 8m of "The Ghost of Tom Joad", via the twin cracks and leftwards at the top to the Rap Station.
Grant Piper 2015
Dragging Mud 21 ,19 30m
0
wire representing trad
Climb just right of vegetated black corner, then up the steeper corner continuation and belay below crack.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12120mYes
 Climb just right of vegetated black corner, then up the steeper corner continuation and belay below crack.
21910mYes
 Climb the classic undercut jam crack.
Richard Kimberley, Alan Hill, 2003
Event Horizon 25 30m
2.01
2bolts wire representing trad
Up slab to roof, the right-facing corner with stepped roofs.
Richard Kimberley, 2002
Fickle Finger 22 30m
0
wire representing trad
Up the slab and through the roof on the headwall to gain the corner.
Richjard Kimberley, 2003
Sty in the Sky 17 40m
0
Probably the worst climb in Canterbury. Up a slab beneath a large overhanging headwall, moving L, and then back to the R. Move R into a broken corner, and up into a clean-cut corner (crux). Finish straight up past a tree and over blocks.
Lindsay Main '77
GC The Ghost Club 21 18m
0
4bolts
Start left of Antihistimine Blues behind the trees and move up past a bolt on slopey holds to reach a hanging rib. Reach over and rock left on to another slab. Follow the bolts to the tree and abseil ring straight above.
Marcus Thomas, 1999
Antihistamine Blues 18 15m
0
Thin crack with black rock on its R. Thin climbing and pro for about 6m, easing towards the top.
Brent Davis '80
Megaherb 20 18m
1.02
4bolts
Balancy route up the wall with a small overlap, past four bolts to chains. Crux at the top.
John McCallum, 1994
SC Spurt Climbing 20 20m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Thin crack line with an undercut start. Start from the left, using the first bolt of Megaherb, then climb the crack on natural protection. Step right to the chains. The direct start is 21/22 with untrustworthy protection (unless the bolt is pre-clipped)
Joe Arts, 1994
Fallout 19 10m
0
wire representing trad
On the upper tier left of the Cooptown crack.
Pete Gresham, 2003
Cooptown 15 ,17 25m
0
wire representing trad
Climb Spurt Climbing or one of the other lower level climbs to the chains at the top of The Queen's Body English. Then climb about a metre right up a broken right-facing corner. Step left past blocks and climb an easy slab, continuing up a tongue of rock to a grassy ledge. Alternatively continue rightward following the corner, then move back left. Move left to the biggest available anchor tree.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11515mYes
 Climb Spurt Climbing or one of the other lower level climbs to the chains at the top of The Queen's Body English. Then climb about a metre right up a broken right-facing corner. Step left past blocks and climb an easy slab, continuing up a tongue of rock to a grassy ledge. Alternatively continue rightward following the corner, then move back left. Move left to the biggest available anchor tree.
21710mYes
 Start slightly left in a small alcove below a jam crack. Climb the crack to another alcove, then exit left and anchor at a tree. Abseil from another tree lower down and two metres left.
Joe Arts, 1994
Sons Of The Flow 23 20m
0
4bolts
Steep climbing through the undercut, then up the wall. Four bolts and double anchor chain. Crux is at the third bolt, moving on to the top slab.
John McCallum, 1994
QB The Queen's Body English 21 20m
0
wire representing trad
Left-hand of two steep cracks left of the fence.
John McCallum, 1980
BM Big Meanie 21 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
The right-hand crack just left of the fence. Undercut start, then up the crack (crux) to the ledge. Originally the climb continued with a step left on to the large block, then straight up over blocks to exit right in a scrubby gully. Nowadays you can abseil from the QBE chains.
Lindsay Main, 1980
Little Horror 20 25m
0
Start up a weakness just above the fence to the bulge. Mantleshelf gymnastically onto the incut ledge above (crux). Up the wall above, tending slightly R beside a small crack (19). Move L and finish as for B.M..
Lindsay Main '80
Big Mama 22 25m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
A black groove a metre right of the fence tending left and then right. Climb past three bolts and wires to a double chain anchor for Flossing With Elvis. Thin wires protect the crux between the first two bolts.
Joe Arts, 1998
Flossing With Elvis 21 20m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Start up Big Mama (clip the first bolt) to the roof. Place cams in slots to the right and above the roof, and pull through to good holds. Climb the crack above to a double chain anchor.
John McCallum, 1994
Chronic Pneumonic 19 20m
0
wire representing trad
Climb a slab two metres right to a steep right-facing corner (protection under the undercling to the right). Then up the corner and crack to a grassy ledge and move left under a block to the Flossing With Elvis chains.
Lindsay Main. 1998
Aqualung 19 15m
0
wire representing trad
An obvious short weakness. Staunch bridging and layback moves with good protection to a ledge; then move left to the FWE anchor chains.
Alan Hill, 2002
Blind Optimism 20 30m
1.02
wire representing trad
Starts in a shallow groove and climbs right of a flaky area as the groove steepens. Tricky bridging (crux) to a stable position below a short crack to a vegetated ledge, then up another short crack with a small bush to a larger ledge with a five-finger tree. Climb the V-chimney behind the tree, moving left at the top on good holds to another short steep crack. Belay and abseil from a sling and and ring on a small tree.
Lindsay Main, 2014
Christmas Cracker 17 ,21 ,17 30m
0
wire representing trad
Can be done as three short pitches. Start 1m R of pine. Up groove trending slightly L, and past RH end of OH. Belay on ledge below corner.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11712mYes
 Can be done as three short pitches. Start 1m R of pine. Up groove trending slightly L, and past RH end of OH. Belay on ledge below corner.
22110mYes
 Move L and up flake and RW sloping crack, then up L-facing corner (crux) past large block (care) and bush to belay below corner.
3178mYes
 Climb the corner, then make awkward moves L and up second corner.
John Veronese, Alan Hill, Pete Gresham, 2002
Picking Scabs 17 15m
0
wire representing trad
Climbs the first wall only. Up a slab behind a pine tree, moving right to pass the small roof and gain a grassy ledge. Either move left across grassy ledges and abseil from chains, or continue up Christmas Cracker or Lost In Space.
Peter Gresham, 2002
Lost in Space 17 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
Ten metres right of the fence, climb a thin crack over a small bulge to a wide ledge with trees, then from a recess above take the left of two parallel leaning corners. Abseil from a sling around a tree, or move right to ring anchors.
Gilda Otway (start), Joe Arts (finish), 1998
Pillarmanjaro 22 20m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Goes up the arête between Lost in Space and Mind Games. Gain the LiS Ledge. Bridge start in LiS past the first bolt, traverse rightwards onto the arête, using the thin crack for pro. After the bolt climb the blocky head wall to the finishing ledge, where there is a DBB, which also services LiS.
Grant Piper 2016
Mind Games 19 25m
2.01
wire representing trad
The right of the two leaning corners. Start up the vegetated ramp and climb the right-leaning corner on the right. Layback up the ramp, pull over the bulge, and balance up the smooth V-corner with small gear (crux) to finish up the broken corner. Anchors are on he ledge above. Technical, clean, and aesthetic.
Lindsay Main, 1980
Frictional Characters 21 27m
2.01
3bolts wire representing trad
Goes up the arête to the right of Mind Games. Start up the splitter crack, then work your way through the shattering's, and beyond up the face past the 3bolts, to gain the crack and out to the rap station
Grant Piper 2016
Sniffing The Bear 16 ,20 30m
0
wire representing trad
Start up the ramp as for previous routes, then move rifght across steep slab and flakes and through notch to large belay ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11615mYes
 Start up the ramp as for previous routes, then move rifght across steep slab and flakes and through notch to large belay ledge.
22015mYes
 Climb up behind ledge, then R to small ledge with two small trees. Make awkward move up past overlap to edge of slab. Step R (crux) then gain & follow corner, finishing L to anchor tree, or right to a new anchor.
Richard Kimberley, Alan Hill, 2002
Redemption 18 25m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
On the small buttress by a small native tree. Start by climbing the tree and step onto the rock; then balance up with dodgy gear including a sling around the tree to gain the blocks, and on up to the ledge. After a short bush walk climb blocks past grass on the right side of the corner and push up to the slab above. Move left past the bolt (crux) to the left side of the corner and step right to finish up a short crack to a double ring anchor.
Lindsay Main, 2014
Take It Or Leave It 23 25m
0
wire representing trad
Obvious right-to-left slanting crack.
Richard Kimberley, 2003
False Colours 19 25m
0
Above a clearing in the scrub at the base of the cliff. Up a vague weakness with a thin L-leaning crack to a deeply incised vegetated gully. Climb the crack (crux), and a short steep wall above with poor pro. L and around blocks, then up just L of a gorse bush to a ledge. Continue up same line.
Lindsay Main '79
Shakytown 20 28m
1.02
wire representing trad
Starts in an obvious left-facing corner behind the truncated kawakawa (thanks Joe). Bridge up with some thin moves and step right to balance on to the sloping ledge. At the short corner above cautiously place tiny wires until good microcams can be employed, and bridge up to good holds to gain a grassy ledge. Climb the slab on the left well above the gear to the steepening exit crack up the crack and narrow chimney. Pull through the overhanging blocks to the right of the olearia bush, with anchor rings to the right. Note that the crux may be harder for those below average height because a good reach helps in placing the gear.
Lindsay Main, 2014
Us and Them 20 28m
0
wire representing trad
Starts up a low angle crack with a challenging move through a small overhang., then follow the crack to a short corner with thin crack below a hebe. Balance up and pass the tree on the left; then up to an overhanging chimney. Craftily avoid this on the right to gain the exit crack. Fight your way up with slopey holds and bridging. Step left to the Shakytown anchor. Very well protected all the way, but take a comprehensive rack and plenty of extenders.
Tony Harrison, 1979
Consequences 18 30m
0
wire representing trad
From the large boulder step left to the crack on the face, or climb the diagonal crack to the truncated tree and up to the bulge. From the edge of the ledge on Us And Them reach high and place a good wire in the thin crack to the right. Pull around to the right on good hidden holds and balance up above the gear to meet a succession of good cracks. Pass the small tree on the left to gain the exit fist crack. Anchors are on the slab to the right.
Lindsay Main, 2014
Horizontal Interludes 21 27m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
Launch from the block into the crack, when the crack peters out, move past the bolt and onto less steep terrain. Carry on up the up left side of the pillar to the top, using the horizontal breaks to cluster the pro in.
Kevin Barrett, 2014
Featureless Fault 22 28m
2.01
4bolts wire representing trad
Climb up viscous corner past 2 bolts. Gain the right hand crack up into another corner system. Carry on up the right side of the face/arête to the break above the last bolt, then veer leftwards across the top of the face to finish.
Kevin Barrett, Grant Piper 2014
Brain Damage 20 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
Excellent. Starts off a large rock, moving right. Up the wall (unprotected) to a left-facing groove with a thin crack (crux) which is climbed by bridging and balance to a ledge. Then climb the steep crack above (16) and the left jam crack to finish.
Lindsay Main '79
Spectrum 16 25m
0
wire representing trad
Starts at a steep thin crack under a horizontal roof. Good holds with long reaches lead to an easier section below the steeper bulges to the exit. Double ring anchor.
Lindsay Main, 1975
Eclipse 16 25m
2.01
wire representing trad
Start at a left-facing undercut brown corner. The overhang is the crux with an option of slab climbing or laybacking to get established on the left wall. At mid-height continue up the crack to the left with a steep easy finish, and move left to Spectrum's anchor.
Lindsay Main, 1975

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Comments

The landowner has sighted climbers on the crag with out permission!! This act of trespassing is ruining everyone else's access privileges. If you would like to climb on private property, phone the landowner and, PLEASE POLITELY ASK FOR PERMISSION!!