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FOMO Wall

Type

The most remote part of the crag, at the very left end.

Aspect
South East
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
AL ALAbove the Limit, 20 20 10m 3
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 10m
  • 3

The start of the climb is found a few metres left of the top of "Beyond the Limit". climb the line of bolts on the steep slab, just to the left of the crack. Rap station at the top.


BL BLBeyond the Limit, 17 17 18m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 18m
  • Trad

Found on the left end of the crag, (double back onto a ledge). Starts up a slab with a thin crack on the left, when the crack peters out, move right to next thin crack, then follow out the top to the rap station.


 Outer Limits, 15 15 25m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 25m
  • Trad

Almost on the left margin of the crag. Scramble up through the scrub to the ledge to start the climb. Start up a short steep crack which leads to a shallow curving groove. Balance up on good holds past a microcam and gain the arête above, leading to a ledge with trees. Abseil off a tree in the corner.


 Tree2tree, 16 16 30m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 30m
  • Trad

Vegetated. Start up an awkward steep left-facing corner past bushes to gain an open area, and take a crack heading right. At the grassy ledge cruise up to the right past several trees to reach a steep black corner angling left, with loose blacks. Pull on to the slab on the left and climb easily through to the top. Fixed anchor slings.


 Fat Fingered Fantasy, 22 22 12m
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • 12m
  • Trad

Climb the inviting left facing corner. Small cams are useful.


 Wooden Jugs, 15 15 45m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 45m
  • Trad

The left-most of a set of cracks and corners. Start either left (easier) or right side of a triangular feature below a corner-crack. Climb up fairly easily past a few small trees to a grassy area beside a prominent buttress on the right. Angle left through the trees to a prominent crack (crux) and climb this to finish either under a bush or to the right on a knobbly wall. Abseil from the large tree five or six metres up , angling north to descend the right side of the buttress to meet the intermediate anchor. As it's 45 metres it needs two abseils, unless you use two ropes.


HW HWHard Wired, 20 20 30m 4
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 4
  • Trad

Move up left facing corner, until capped by the roof. move leftwards, then clip the bolt, once above roof height, move rightwards back into a corner, escape the roof rightwards then work your way up the slab past 2 bolts. At the ledge clip the bolt go left and up to the rap station. PS, take RPs/ brassies + wires and a few small cams.


 Rib Tickler, 22 22 30m 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 30m
  • 3
  • Trad

Start up face with 3 bolts, passing through the small roof. Carry on up to shallow crack, moving straight up, then veer left onto the ledge. From the ledge climb up hanging flake above with good wires in the upper part of the flake. Finish up the steep groove to top out using the rap station above Hard Wired.


 The Long March, 17 17 40m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 40m
  • Trad

A route of over 40 metres, and most of it is on rock! Start on the left side of the obvious corner in the middle of the wall, following a thin crack angling into the corner. Then bridge up (goods jugs on the left wall) to climb past the pruned tree and gain the grassy ledge with the abseil tree. Move slightly left to the buttress and layback to a small ledge; then follow a thin crack angling right near the edge of the wall. Gain the rock ledge and climb the short undercut exit crack (crux at the start). Scramble to the big tree about six metres up to anchor and abseil.


 Dora the Explorer, 17 17 40m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • Trad

Climb the corner as for The Long March to the grassy ledge and anchor at the kanuka tree.


  • P2
  • 17
  • 25m
  • Trad

Go rightwards to system of double flared cracks, climb cracks and veer leftwards to top of crag.


 Pre-emptive Strike, 16 16 15m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • Trad

Start at the base of the corner and bridge up to the roof (good gear in the crack). Step out on to the arête and climb a nice crack, then over a block and left to the anchor.


 Compact Adventure, 18 18 12m 1
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 12m
  • 1
  • Trad

Direct start to Pre-emptive Strike. Climb past bolt to the roof, and finish as for Pre-emptive Strike


 FOMO, 16 16 15m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • Trad

An obvious crack three metres right, marred only by very shattered rock in the first three metres. After that a friendly crack and good bridging opens up the route through the top crack and out to a vegetated ledge. Move left about 5 metres to the abseil slings at the top of the previous route.


 Fly by Wire, 18 18 15m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • Trad

2metres left of Chinese Burn. Climb the crack though the bulge on to easier angled terrain. At the top, go leftwards to the rap station.


CB CBChinese Burn, 18 18 15m
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • Trad

The climb is found on a crag approximately 50m left of the main crag, (follow around the base). Jam up the steep R-Hand corner to the ledge. then follow up weakness to top. A few large cams are useful. Rap station is leftwards above Compact Adventure.


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