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Meanie Wall

Type
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
GC GCThe Ghost Club, 21 21 18m 4
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 18m
  • 4

Start left of Antihistimine Blues behind the trees and move up past a bolt on slopey holds to reach a hanging rib. Reach over and rock left on to another slab. Follow the bolts to the tree and abseil ring straight above.


 Antihistamine Blues, 18 18 15m
0

Thin crack with black rock on its R. Thin climbing and pro for about 6m,
easing towards the top.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • Trad

 Megaherb, 20 20 18m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 18m
  • 4

Balancy route up the wall with a small overlap, past four bolts to chains. Crux at the top.


SC SCSpurt Climbing, 20 20 20m 1
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 1
  • Trad

Thin crack line with an undercut start. Start from the left, using the first bolt of Megaherb, then climb the crack on natural protection. Step right to the chains. The direct start is 21/22 with untrustworthy protection (unless the bolt is pre-clipped)


 Fallout, 19 19 10m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 10m
  • Trad

On the upper tier left of the Cooptown crack.


 Cooptown, 17 17 25m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • Trad

Climb Spurt Climbing or one of the other lower level climbs to the chains at the top of The Queen's Body English. Then climb about a metre right up a broken right-facing corner. Step left past blocks and climb an easy slab, continuing up a tongue of rock to a grassy ledge. Alternatively continue rightward following the corner, then move back left. Move left to the biggest available anchor tree.


  • P2
  • 17
  • 10m
  • Trad

Start slightly left in a small alcove below a jam crack. Climb the crack to another alcove, then exit left and anchor at a tree. Abseil from another tree lower down and two metres left.


 Sons Of The Flow, 23 23 20m 4
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 20m
  • 4

Steep climbing through the undercut, then up the wall. Four bolts and double anchor chain. Crux is at the third bolt, moving on to the top slab.


QB QBThe Queen's Body English, 21 21 20m
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • Trad

Left-hand of two steep cracks left of the fence.


BM BMBig Meanie, 21 21 25m
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 25m
  • Trad

The right-hand crack just left of the fence. Undercut start, then up the crack (crux) to the ledge. Originally the climb continued with a step left on to the large block, then straight up over blocks to exit right in a scrubby gully. Nowadays you can abseil from the QBE chains.


 Little Horror, 20 20 25m
0

Start up a weakness just above the fence to the bulge. Mantleshelf
gymnastically onto the incut ledge above (crux). Up the wall above, tending
slightly R beside a small crack (19). Move L and finish as for B.M..


  • P1
  • 20
  • 25m
  • Trad

 Big Mama, 22 22 25m 3
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 25m
  • 3
  • Trad

A black groove a metre right of the fence tending left and then right. Climb past three bolts and wires to a double chain anchor for Flossing With Elvis. Thin wires protect the crux between the first two bolts.


 Flossing With Elvis, 21 21 20m 1
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 1
  • Trad

Start up Big Mama (clip the first bolt) to the roof. Place cams in slots to the right and above the roof, and pull through to good holds. Climb the crack above to a double chain anchor.


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5cb2d3e8-3abf-4334-ad90-6baaa51467e4