Meanie Wall

(12 routes)

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
GC The Ghost Club 21 18m
0
4bolts
Start left of Antihistimine Blues behind the trees and move up past a bolt on slopey holds to reach a hanging rib. Reach over and rock left on to another slab. Follow the bolts to the tree and abseil ring straight above.
Marcus Thomas, 1999
Antihistamine Blues 18 15m
0
wire representing trad
Thin crack with black rock on its R. Thin climbing and pro for about 6m, easing towards the top.
Brent Davis '80
Megaherb 20 18m
1.02
4bolts
Balancy route up the wall with a small overlap, past four bolts to chains. Crux at the top.
John McCallum, 1994
SC Spurt Climbing 20 20m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Thin crack line with an undercut start. Start from the left, using the first bolt of Megaherb, then climb the crack on natural protection. Step right to the chains. The direct start is 21/22 with untrustworthy protection (unless the bolt is pre-clipped)
Joe Arts, 1994
Fallout 19 10m
0
wire representing trad
On the upper tier left of the Cooptown crack.
Pete Gresham, 2003
Cooptown 15,17 25m
0
wire representing trad
Climb Spurt Climbing or one of the other lower level climbs to the chains at the top of The Queen's Body English. Then climb about a metre right up a broken right-facing corner. Step left past blocks and climb an easy slab, continuing up a tongue of rock to a grassy ledge. Alternatively continue rightward following the corner, then move back left. Move left to the biggest available anchor tree.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11515mYes
 

Climb Spurt Climbing or one of the other lower level climbs to the chains at the top of The Queen's Body English. Then climb about a metre right up a broken right-facing corner. Step left past blocks and climb an easy slab, continuing up a tongue of rock to a grassy ledge. Alternatively continue rightward following the corner, then move back left. Move left to the biggest available anchor tree.

21710mYes
 

Start slightly left in a small alcove below a jam crack. Climb the crack to another alcove, then exit left and anchor at a tree. Abseil from another tree lower down and two metres left.

Joe Arts, 1994
Sons Of The Flow 23 20m
0
4bolts
Steep climbing through the undercut, then up the wall. Four bolts and double anchor chain. Crux is at the third bolt, moving on to the top slab.
John McCallum, 1994
QB The Queen's Body English 21 20m
0
wire representing trad
Left-hand of two steep cracks left of the fence.
John McCallum, 1980
BM Big Meanie 21 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
The right-hand crack just left of the fence. Undercut start, then up the crack (crux) to the ledge. Originally the climb continued with a step left on to the large block, then straight up over blocks to exit right in a scrubby gully. Nowadays you can abseil from the QBE chains.
Lindsay Main, 1980
Little Horror 20 25m
0
wire representing trad
Start up a weakness just above the fence to the bulge. Mantleshelf gymnastically onto the incut ledge above (crux). Up the wall above, tending slightly R beside a small crack (19). Move L and finish as for B.M..
Lindsay Main '80
Big Mama 22 25m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
A black groove a metre right of the fence tending left and then right. Climb past three bolts and wires to a double chain anchor for Flossing With Elvis. Thin wires protect the crux between the first two bolts.
Joe Arts, 1998
Flossing With Elvis 21 20m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Start up Big Mama (clip the first bolt) to the roof. Place cams in slots to the right and above the roof, and pull through to good holds. Climb the crack above to a double chain anchor.
John McCallum, 1994
UUID: 
5cb2d3e8-3abf-4334-ad90-6baaa51467e4