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Monarch Wall

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Euclid Gully, 16 16 30m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 30m
  • Trad

This is a large, low-angled gully with trees. Originally it was heavily cleaned but has reverted to its former condition. Start below an overhang beside a lemonwood tree and climb a grassy corner leading right, then curving around to the left and finishing up a steep dirty crack (crux), which is badly in need of cleaning..


 Attrition, 18 18 28m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 28m
  • Trad

Start up a shallow corner behind a pruned kawakawa bush. Nice moves up small ledges protected by small wires, with a step right on to the slab. Up past the bushes to the crack on the right wall. Climb past the gorse stumps and grasp a small tree, then move around the roof and up the short right-facing corner. Step left to the ledge, before moving right to gain cracks to the anchor for Mercury Reaches Zero.


 Mercury Reaches Zero, 23 23 28m 3
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 28m
  • 3
  • Trad

A long arête route to commemorate Auckland's 1998 power failure. There is a triangular boulder about five metres back from the cliff. Start on a brushed slab and climb a grassy crack to a ledge, then up the arête, moving right from the bolts to yellowish rock and up to the roof. Climb the thin crack through the roof and follow cracks to the top.


 Beast With Teeth, 20 20 30m
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 30m
  • Trad

An obvious corner-crack with a roof at 15 metres and a crack above. Start up the corner and pass under a small tree a few metres up to grassy ledges below a broad corner. Climb up and out through the roof to do battle with the steep crack above. Then exit up an easy crack and abseil off a tree. Good protection including small cams.


MC MCManufacturing Consent, 22 22 30m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • 30m
  • 7
  • Trad

Another long route, up the arête left of Monarch. Start in a small groove and move rightward past various cracks to the first bolt, then right and up to the roof. Delicate footwork leftward on to the arête, then up following the bolts rightward with the crux move to gain a crack leading to the top. Seven bolts and natural protection.


M MMonarch, 19 19 30m
2.01

  • P1
  • 19
  • 30m
  • Trad

The prominent right-facing corner with a striking exit through the left side of a huge roof, which is easier than appearances would suggest. The lower part needs cleaning. Use the anchors to the left.


 If Pigs Could Fly, 18 18 30m
0

Meanders around the sty looking for a way out. Scramble up the start of M.,
or climb up the groove (15). Move R across the slab (crux, pro from crack) to
reach the R corner. Up to the lower roof and then R onto the wall. Across to
and u p the R crack, then hand-traverse back L to reach the corner above the
main roof. Vegetated finish - move L.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 30m
  • Trad

 Friendzy, 22 22 30m
0

The direct exit from the big roof. The crux move is hand jamming to turn the
roof.


  • P1
  • 22
  • 30m
  • Trad

 Thick as Thieves, 15 15 30m
2.01

Can be readily climbed as one 30-metre pitch.


  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • Trad

In between the starts of Friendzy and Nutpicker a ramp / slab leads up and slightly left to exit onto sloping ledges at the base of a buttress, DBA.


  • P2
  • 15
  • 15m
  • Trad

Climb the buttress via a crack before it traverses left to join the final corner of Friendzy above the overhang, improbable terrain for the grade - well protected, DBA .


N NNutpicker, 19 19 30m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 30m
  • Trad

Start 10 metres right of Monarch at a small boulder pile beside a two metre boulder. The lower part of the climb is low-angled and scrubby, eventually leading to a steeper corner. Climb the thin crack on the right wall of the corner (crux), bridging to the corner at the top. Pretty grotty overall.


 Otway's Clearing, 22 22 32m 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 32m
  • 5
  • Trad

A 35 metre arête starting at the base of Nutpicker. Climb a scrubby slab past a fuchsia and move right to the arête. Up the broad arête, moving right past the bolts and then back to the left above the small roof to finish. Anchor rings as for The Pretender.


TP TPThe Pretender, 17 17 30m
2.01

  • P1
  • 17
  • 30m
  • Trad

Three metres right is this corner with a beaten up broadleaf. Squeeze up though a shallow niche to ledges and gain the tree; then it's a perfect crack with bridging all the way. Anchor rings are to the left. Take plenty of biggish gear.


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