Middle Wall

(17 routes)

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Caracus 22 35m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Four metres right of The Pretender. Start on a rib above a gnarled tree leaning towards the road. Place a large cam in a crack on the right and move left and climb a thin crack over a bulge. Step left on to the arête and climb the slab above past a bolt to the headwall, which involves steep climbing up a thin crack with natural protection to an anchor bolt just below the cliff top.
Joe Arts, 1999.
Soft Option 14 28m
0
wire representing trad
Four metres right in a clearing is this V-corner with shrubs. Climb the corner to a ledge with a tree, then move left to the second corner and up past vegetation to the anchor rings.
Lindsay Main, 1980
Gardener's Groove 16 26m
1.02
wire representing trad
The right-angle corner three metres right. At the ledge step slightly right and move up to the prominent crack. Good jamming up the crack (crux), with a final slab to the anchor rings on the left.
Lindsay Main, 1976
Trisector 18 25m
0
wire representing trad
The upper part of this route forms an obvious V-groove. Start up a corner about three metres right of Gardeners Groove. Ring anchors on the ledge.
Joe Arts, 2015
EC Energy Crisis 19 20m
0
wire representing trad
Start three metres right up a black groove with shrubs, and climb the wide overhanging crack through the large overhang. Anchor rings are to the left.
Lindsay Main, 1980
Dissect Her 19 30m
0
wire representing trad
Start 2m right of Energy Crisis. Climb the rib behind crooked tree and step right to stand on large jammed block. Make a tricky high step to the left and up; then step back right onto ledge. At the overlap overlap move up and right to top of yellow corner. Climb the blocky V groove to the grassy ledge and tree, then fight your way up a dirty crack to a grass and dirt struggle at the top. Abseil from an olearia tree or the Bisector anchor rings. Watch for rope drag.
Paul Stevens, 2005
Vivisector 19 30m
0
wire representing trad
Start just R again, up R-facing corner. At steeper yellow section step L onto ledge and gear, then layaway round protruding block at top of corner. Finish up groove of Dissect Her.
Alan Hill, 2005
B Bisector 16 28m
0
wire representing trad
Recently cleaned. A right-facing corner with a wide crack, topped by a small roof. Start on a platform and climb a slabby left wall to the corner-crack, with good gear and bridging. Above the roof climb a short knobbly wall to gain a nice crack in the corner on the right with anchor rings below the tree.
Stu Allan, 1976
CT The Comeback Trail 19 25m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start two metres right in a small left-facing V-corner and move left to small tree (sling runner), surmount a ledge five metres up and continue to a left-curving crack. Climb this to a bolt beside a pocket, move right and pull on to the slab past a second bolt. One-rope abseil from the rings.
Lindsay Main, 1999
Chasing Tail 19
0
wire representing trad
Start three metres right. Climb right side of broad arête using both trees for assistance; then follow the diagonal line to a crack on the left. Climb this, moving right to another crack or on to the slab and gain the large vegetated ledge. Angle up through the trees to arrive at twin cracks. Climb the left crack with good pro, and move right to a small tree and steep but straightforward exit corner. Abseil from a tree.
Pete Gresham, 2003
The Future Eaters 19 28m
2.01
6bolts wire representing trad
Start on the left side of the broad rounded buttress, beside a mutilated tree. Past the first bolt to balance moves at the third bolt, where a thin crack leads left. Place gear and climb the crack to a ledge on the left. A high clip is followed by committing moves to the next bolt, or move right and place a cam in the crack before moving back to the bolt. (Unclip the cam to reduce drag.) Then balance and smear up the arête with a move to the right to gain the ledge and ring anchors.
Joe Arts, 2014
The Ghost of Tom Joad 18 30m
1.02
5bolts wire representing trad
On the right side of the buttress. Start on the tree and pull up through the overhang past the first bolt to easier climbing. At the ledge move right and climb the crack before stepping up past the fifth bolt. Then follow the zig-zag cracks to the right and back left to the top ledge, with the ring anchors just above.
Joe Arts, 2014
Hairline Fracture 22 27m
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad
Start up steep wall through sequence of holds past 3 bolts. Gain the small ledge to the right of the thin crack. Veer leftwards over onto the slab with a crack, then finish off the last 8m of "The Ghost of Tom Joad", via the twin cracks and leftwards at the top to the Rap Station.
Grant Piper 2015
Dragging Mud 21,19 30m
0
wire representing trad
Climb just right of vegetated black corner, then up the steeper corner continuation and belay below crack.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12120mYes
 

Climb just right of vegetated black corner, then up the steeper corner continuation and belay below crack.

21910mYes
 

Climb the classic undercut jam crack.

Richard Kimberley, Alan Hill, 2003
Event Horizon 25 30m
2.01
2bolts wire representing trad
Up slab to roof, the right-facing corner with stepped roofs.
Richard Kimberley, 2002
Fickle Finger 22 30m
0
wire representing trad
Up the slab and through the roof on the headwall to gain the corner.
Richjard Kimberley, 2003
Sty in the Sky 17 40m
0
wire representing trad
Probably the worst climb in Canterbury. Up a slab beneath a large overhanging headwall, moving L, and then back to the R. Move R into a broken corner, and up into a clean-cut corner (crux). Finish straight up past a tree and over blocks.
Lindsay Main '77
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