Plantation Wall

Type

Part of

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Chronic Pneumonic, 19	19	20m		0
P1 19 20m Trad Climb a slab two metres right to a steep right-facing corner (protection under the undercling to the right). Then up the corner and crack to a grassy ledge and move left under a block to the Flossing With Elvis chains.
	Aqualung, 19	19	15m		0
P1 19 15m Trad An obvious short weakness. Staunch bridging and layback moves with good protection to a ledge; then move left to the FWE anchor chains.
	Blind Optimism, 20	20	30m		1.02
P1 20 30m Trad Starts in a shallow groove and climbs right of a flaky area as the groove steepens. Tricky bridging (crux) to a stable position below a short crack to a vegetated ledge, then up another short crack with a small bush to a larger ledge with a five-finger tree. Climb the V-chimney behind the tree, moving left at the top on good holds to another short steep crack. Belay and abseil from a sling and and ring on a small tree.
	Christmas Cracker, 21	21	30m		0
P1 17 12m Trad Can be done as three short pitches. Start 1m R of pine. Up groove trending slightly L, and past RH end of OH. Belay on ledge below corner. P2 21 10m Trad Move L and up flake and RW sloping crack, then up L-facing corner (crux) past large block (care) and bush to belay below corner. P3 17 8m Trad Climb the corner, then make awkward moves L and up second corner.
	Picking Scabs, 17	17	15m		0
P1 17 15m Trad Climbs the first wall only. Up a slab behind a pine tree, moving right to pass the small roof and gain a grassy ledge. Either move left across grassy ledges and abseil from chains, or continue up Christmas Cracker or Lost In Space.
	Lost in Space, 17	17	25m		1.02
P1 17 25m Trad Ten metres right of the fence, climb a thin crack over a small bulge to a wide ledge with trees, then from a recess above take the left of two parallel leaning corners. Abseil from a sling around a tree, or move right to ring anchors.
	Pillarmanjaro, 22	22	20m	2	0
P1 22 20m 2 Trad Goes up the arête between Lost in Space and Mind Games. Gain the LiS Ledge. Bridge start in LiS past the first bolt, traverse rightwards onto the arête, using the thin crack for pro. After the bolt climb the blocky head wall to the finishing ledge, where there is a DBB, which also services LiS.
	Mind Games, 19	19	25m		2.01
P1 19 25m Trad The right of the two leaning corners. Start up the vegetated ramp and climb the right-leaning corner on the right. Layback up the ramp, pull over the bulge, and balance up the smooth V-corner with small gear (crux) to finish up the broken corner. Anchors are on he ledge above. Technical, clean, and aesthetic.
	Frictional Characters, 21	21	27m	3	2.01
P1 21 27m 3 Trad Goes up the arête to the right of Mind Games. Start up the splitter crack, then work your way through the shattering's, and beyond up the face past the 3bolts, to gain the crack and out to the rap station
	Sniffing The Bear, 20	20	30m		0
P1 16 15m Trad Start up the ramp as for previous routes, then move rifght across steep slab and flakes and through notch to large belay ledge. P2 20 15m Trad Climb up behind ledge, then R to small ledge with two small trees. Make awkward move up past overlap to edge of slab. Step R (crux) then gain & follow corner, finishing L to anchor tree, or right to a new anchor.
	Redemption, 18	18	25m	1	0
P1 18 25m 1 Trad On the small buttress by a small native tree. Start by climbing the tree and step onto the rock; then balance up with dodgy gear including a sling around the tree to gain the blocks, and on up to the ledge. After a short bush walk climb blocks past grass on the right side of the corner and push up to the slab above. Move left past the bolt (crux) to the left side of the corner and step right to finish up a short crack to a double ring anchor.

Comments

UUID

9697dad3-e654-445a-a8b8-6a51092e0ad1