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The Black Gully

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 The Black Drain, 15 15
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

The obvious water gulley to the left of The Black Slab can be climbed with little difficulty and reasonable protection. The crux is at the exit to the large grassy ledge where this route joins TBS. Rappel from tree here or finish up TBS (16).


 The Black Slab, 16 16 30m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 30m
  • Trad

Some 50 metres right of the Hubris wall is a gully in an area clear of vegetation. At the back of the gully is an obvious black slab. Start on the right of the slab staying on the cleaner rock and following the available small wire placements up and left to a block/ledge/flake thing. This gets slightly run out but on easy ground. Head further left (double ropes would be useful to avoid rope drag) and up the water gully to gain the large vegetated ledge that splits the cliff at this point. From here it is possible to access the top of other nearby climbs. Head up the grass gully left of the buttress in front of you until it can be regained by swinging up and right. Climb the bulgy blocky buttress to the short final slab. Belay and rappel off double ring bolts shared with the route to the right..


 TBS Direct, 21 21 1
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 1
  • Trad

Same start as The Black Slab (TBS) but head straight up. At the ledge where TBS heads left to the gully, climb the slab directly with increasing difficulty past three small wire placements and finally a bolt. Do not grab the tree! Either rappel off the trees or continue up the top of TBS.


 Arc Angel, 17 17 25m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 25m
  • Trad

At the edge of the black slab scramble up past two trees and climb the obvious black corner arching to the left. Above the tree from the vegetated ledge climb the leftward arcing crack, widening from hand to offwidth - watch out for wedging at the top. Can be used as an escape from Somewhat Awkward. Shares the double ring belay with TBS.


 Somewhat Awkward, 17 17 25m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 25m
  • Trad

From the track scramble past 2 trees . Nicely climb the slab and left most corner crack. From the vegetated ledge, protect carefully before awkwardly figuring your way into the obvious vertical crack/open corner, exit the top, take care with rope run.


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