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Kawakawa Wall

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Take It Or Leave It, 23 23 25m
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 25m
  • Trad

Obvious right-to-left slanting crack.


 False Colours, 19 19 25m
0

Above a clearing in the scrub at the base of the cliff. Up a vague weakness
with a thin L-leaning crack to a deeply incised vegetated gully. Climb the
crack (crux), and a short steep wall above with poor pro. L and around
blocks, then up just L of a gorse bush to a ledge. Continue up same line.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 25m
  • Trad

 Shakytown, 20 20 28m
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 28m
  • Trad

Starts in an obvious left-facing corner behind the truncated kawakawa (thanks Joe). Bridge up with some thin moves and step right to balance on to the sloping ledge. At the short corner above cautiously place tiny wires until good microcams can be employed, and bridge up to good holds to gain a grassy ledge. Climb the slab on the left well above the gear to the steepening exit crack up the crack and narrow chimney. Pull through the overhanging blocks to the right of the olearia bush, with anchor rings to the right. Note that the crux may be harder for those below average height because a good reach helps in placing the gear.


 Us and Them, 20 20 28m
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 28m
  • Trad

Starts up a low angle crack with a challenging move through a small overhang., then follow the crack to a short corner with thin crack below a hebe. Balance up and pass the tree on the left; then up to an overhanging chimney. Craftily avoid this on the right to gain the exit crack. Fight your way up with slopey holds and bridging. Step left to the Shakytown anchor. Very well protected all the way, but take a comprehensive rack and plenty of extenders.


 Consequences, 18 18 30m 1
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 30m
  • 1
  • Trad

From the large boulder step left to the crack on the face, or climb the diagonal crack to the truncated tree and up to the bulge. From the edge of the ledge on Us And Them reach high and place a good wire (bolt?) in the thin crack to the right. Pull around to the right on good hidden holds and balance up above the gear to meet a succession of good cracks. Pass the small tree on the left to gain the exit fist crack. Anchors are on the slab to the right.


 Horizontal Interludes, 21 21 27m 1
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 27m
  • 1
  • Trad

Launch from the block into the crack, when the crack peters out, move past the bolt and onto less steep terrain. Carry on up the up left side of the pillar to the top, using the horizontal breaks to cluster the pro in.


 Featureless Fault, 22 22 28m 4
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • 28m
  • 4
  • Trad

Climb up viscous corner past 2 bolts. Gain the right hand crack up into another corner system. Carry on up the right side of the face/arête to the break above the last bolt, then veer leftwards across the top of the face to finish.


 Brain Damage, 20 20 25m
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 25m
  • Trad

Excellent. Starts off a large rock, moving right. Up the wall (unprotected) to a left-facing groove with a thin crack (crux) which is climbed by bridging and balance to a ledge. Then climb the steep crack above (16) and the left jam crack to finish.


 Spectrum, 16 16 25m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 25m
  • Trad

Starts at a steep thin crack under a horizontal roof. Good holds with long reaches lead to an easier section below the steeper bulges to the exit. Double ring anchor.


 Eclipse, 16 16 25m
2.01

  • P1
  • 16
  • 25m
  • Trad

Start at a left-facing undercut brown corner. The overhang is the crux with an option of slab climbing or laybacking to get established on the left wall. At mid-height continue up the crack to the left with a steep easy finish, and move left to Spectrum's anchor.


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35fde2ca-d314-4dbd-bf87-1f2073a6d4eb