The bouldering & the rock
The airstrip excels in low to mid grade bouldering. The best problems are often up to 4m high, and offer a great range of moves although delicate smears and desperate slaps feature often. The Waitomo limestone is generally very solid with reasonable friction, and well featured due to thousands of years of weathering.
Where to stay & eats
Waitomo is a tourist town so take your pick, Backpackers start at about $20 a night and comes complete with drunken free loving guests. The village camping ground costs about $12pp for camping and also has cabins available. Climbers may be more attracted to the HTG Caving hut 1.5km out of Waitomo towards the bouldering. This is bunk bed accommodation with a communal kitchen and good showers, for $12 a night and comes complete with drunken free loving cavers. Camping is also available here for $7pp.
Waitomo village has a pub and bottle store which does basic evening meals. There is also a very average pizza café at a back packers, and the good (though expensive) Long Black Café for coffee, food, and caving tours (!?). The nearest town, Otorohanga has a supermarket and ‘The Thirsty Weta’, a better than average bar/café.
Grade Hit List
VM Trees For Cheese (The Swamp) - Problem 6, (The Greek Gods)
V0 Shimmeys Chimney Warm up Boulder (Valley Wall) Fishy Fingers (Fisher Wall)
V1 Swampthing (The Swamp) Problem 3 (Skyline Boulders) Coconut Paddle (Totem area)
V2 Gonzo (Highball wall) - Spanking Monkeys (Highball Wall)
V3 K3 (Highball Wall) - Grated Parmesan (The Cheesegrater)
V4 Golden Shower (Highball Wall)Echo-psychosis (Wave Wall) Approaching Insanity (Grot View)
V5 Download (Highball Wall) - A Little Bit Camp (North Face)
V6 Heavenly Curves (North Face) - Razorback Rider (Alchemy Wall) - Franks Better Half (Grot View)
V7 Franks Route (Grot View) - Power Puku link up (Grot View)
V8 Frantic (Grot View)
V9 Ninja Rejecter (Reservoir Wall)
V10 Anti-Hesitator (Grot View)
Permission
At present permission must be obtained from the farm managers Ben and Bex Stubbs: ph. 078787426
Getting there
Turn off SH3, signposted to Waitomo Caves, 40min south of Hamilton or 10min north of Te Kuiti. The Waitomo caves village is 10 min further on.
From the Waitomo Village, head west past the famous caves towards Te Anga and the coast. After 10-15 min pass Hauturu Road on the right and 50m on is the access, signposted Awatiro/Stubbs farm. Close the gate on your way though.
Boulderers have been requested to park on the south side of the airstrip, on your left as you drive in. This is to avoid any obstruction of work at the woolshed and yards.
Once you have got permission and parked on the far side of the airstrip, the bouldering awaits…
Places
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