Grot View Cave

(14 routes)

Grot view Cave is an exciting chunk of overhanging limestone with a plethora of sloping ledges and the occasional welcome jug. The climbing is politely thuggish (though not aggressive) and requires considerable stamina and an excellent array of technical heel hooking. The longest lines are in excess of 20 moves so the route climbers may well find their niche here. Development started here in the summer of ‘03/’04 when my partner Lisa Fisher and I built a platform to cover the 2 meter deep stream. It was a DIY disaster but did serve its purpose for nearly 2 years!. There is now a culvert and flat area replacing this platform, funded by Ben Stubbs and local

Type: 
Boulder
Access: 

Grot View Cave is accessible from either the airstrip parking or from roadside parking:
From the airstrip walk past the ASG hut (the green building) and the toilets. I little way on a farm track will take you down to the cave in about 2minutes. Roadside parking is found 100m up Hauturu road. Park on the meagre verges near the wooden gate just past and opposite the large farm buildings (traffic is light on this road but take care) or get permission from Ben to park inside the gate. The Cave is a mere 1 minute walk from the car. Just head for the grey buttress.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Du Hast V5
1.02
Sit start. A pump fest traverse that you will either want or hate. From furthest right in the dark low corner, (or from the nearest dry holds if theres seepage) follow the weakness which passes the big juggy plate and around the bulge into the grotty dark corner above the stream.
(John Newby)
Approaching Insanity V4
3
This is the first half and first crux of ‘Du Hast’, finishing on the big plate.
(John Newby).
Savage Alfresco V9
2.01
Starts up the huge jugs left of “Approaching Insanity” to the lip, then traverse it right using tension and a iron cross!. Finish standing on the far right points as for “Franks Route”
(Stu Kurth)
3 A Taste of Bile V7
1.02
BILE...Sit or crouch start left of ‘Du Hast’with feet on the base rock.Out to the sloping V hold, a couple of moves on ‘Du Hast’ and then clench tight for some tenuous moves through the corner. Feet high will get you across left to the break and all the way along as far as the rock goes.
(John Newby)
4 Dirty Dancing V6
1.02
A sit start to the right off Du Hast. Start on slopers on the big overhung flake thing. Clamp your way out and reach right, past the tufa and dodgy looking ledges to get on the undercut far right face. More slopers get you set for an awkward lunge or, sweeter, a gaston in the small roof above to gain the right arete. The tufas are all eliminated on this line simply because they are wet for at least 95% of the year!
(James Morris)
5 Frantic V8
2.01
A fingery line to start followed by some fantastic burly moves. Starts at an apex half way round the traverse of ‘Approaching Insanity’. Feet on and throw for a high crimp right. Throw left hand to low undercling under the nose, then clamp your way out below the finishing traverse of ‘Franks route’.
(James Morris)
Frantastic V9
0
SDS of Frantic. Start with feet on base rock at back of cave, find a couple of underclings, then out through the obvious crimps and sloper jug. Takes the direct line to link in to Frantic.
(Sam Williams)
6 Franks Route V7
3
The best line in the cave so far. On the left side, below the finish off ‘Du Hast’, clamp using left hand on a good high sloper, right hand on a really bad one under the roof proper. Feet on and throw right for the sloping jug, match and on to the big plate. Halfway! Reach into the groove and through technical moves under and around the over hung bulge to the final traverse of ‘A Taste of bile’.
(Frank Enz)
7 Franks Better Half V6
3
This was Franks original send but it wasn’t hard enough so he added all the moves before it. Starts at the juggy plate where ‘Approaching Insanity’ ends.
(FrankEnz).
8 Power Puku V6
3
Burly gut wrenching moves will see you to the end of this one. Start as for ‘Du Hast’ but take the lower line on small slopers around the first corner. Leave this line before the juggy plate and drop on to the two small blobs. Reach or lunge all the way under the overhang then clamp your way to reach and finish at the sloping break of ‘Du Hast’. Perhaps on the stiff side of the grade, but a great send.
(John Newby).
9 Standing Ovation V4
1.02
Finally a ‘vertical’ problem at grot-view and surprisingly technical. From the sloping break where ’Power Puku’ finishes, crank the sidepull, slap way left to slopers hen finish on the juggy breaks and jump off. This was graded V5 until Steve proved the sidepull to be online. The harder variation is also worth doing.
(John Newby).
10 Maestro V4
1.02
A Further variation to Standing Ovation is a problem of its own. Same start and taking the big sidepull, but uses handholds in the vertical crack only. Finishes on the same jugs.
(John Newby)
Power Puku Link Up V7
2.01
This link up of ‘Power Puku’ and ‘Standing Ovation’ had to be done and needs a serious combo of power and stamina.
(Steve Conn).
The Anti Hesitator V10
3
Waitomo’s first V10!. Sit Start in the middle of “Power Puku” and straight through the start of “Franks Better Half”, then through the “blank” horizontal roof out to the lip, finish up “Savage Alfresco”.
(Stu Kurth)