’strip’, with a good number at a queasy height.
Picks of the Bunch: Gonzo (V2), K3 (V3), Golden Shower(V4)
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1Slapper, V2 | V2 | ||||
Picks of the Bunch: Gonzo (V2), K3 (V3), Golden Shower(V4) |
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| 2 | 2Dirty Little Slapper, V4 | V4 | ||||
Sit start. From Gonzo, left on pocks to arete. Layback right side of arete to finish. |
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| 3 | 3Gonzo, V2 | V2 | ||||
Sit start on jugs. Up arete. |
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| 4 | 44, VM | VM | ||||
Left arete and big jugs. |
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| 4a | 4a4a, V2 | V2 | ||||
V2*...A bit more cruxy than the others. Pull hard to jugs then left at the top. |
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| 4b | 4b4b, V6 | V6 | ||||
Dyno from the jug in the middle of the face to the top. |
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| 5 | 55, V3 | V3 | ||||
.Vertical crack and blank top. Try the sit start. |
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| 6 | 66, V3 | V3 | ||||
Juggy ledge and up face. Tend right to arete. |
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| 7 | 7Pete's Traverse, V1 | V1 | ||||
From chimney right of ‘6’, reach around left to catch l edge and traverse face to ‘4’. |
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| 8 | 8Stick Insect, V3 | V3 | ||||
Up chimney/groove. Bad landing. |
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| 9 | 9Spanking Monkeys, V2 | V2 | ||||
Smear, spank arete. |
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| 10 | 10Shimmey's Chimney, V0 | V0 | ||||
CHIMNEY...Hard start. Descend via cave or highball over ‘Spanking Monkeys’. |
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| 11 | 11Crucify Yourself, V3 | V3 | ||||
Face between ‘Top in Crack’ and ‘Shimmey’s chimney’. Layback and crucify to the top. Exit left. |
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| 12 | 12Best Breasts 2001, V4 | V4 | ||||
Traverse left, using toe pocks, from ‘Topin Crack’ to ‘Shimmey’s chimney’. |
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| 13 | 13Topin Crack, V1 | V1 | ||||
Layback and jamming. |
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| 14 | 14Good Form, V1 | V1 | ||||
Over old Tufa. |
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| 15 | 15Golden Shower, V4 | V4 | ||||
Layback crack to holds high and right. Nightmare top out for short people. |
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| 15a | 15aGolden Shower Direct, V7 | V7 | ||||
Take a dynamic leap off the ground using the mono to the sloping ledge. Without using the footholds in the big crack left, finish on Golden Shower. |
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| 15b | 15bGolden Shower Static, V8 | V8 | ||||
STATIC...same start as direct but no jumping off the ground. |
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| 16 | 1616, V3 | V3 | ||||
Dirty groove right of Golden Shower hides some fine moves. Finishes on the arete at the top of ‘Golden Shower’. |
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