Taranaki Mt Egmont

A seldom-completed circuit of the entire crater rim. Most of the crater rim is an exposed, easy scramble in summer time; with occasional ‘crux’ sections—some parties may require a rope. Suggested direction is counter-clockwise. This would give a couple of abseils and the easier climbing. Winter, however, involves a series of steep climbs and descents over some, dubious at times, ice formations. Direction is a matter of personal preference depending on how much steep climbing the party wishes to accomplish. It is best climbed clockwise. The best time to do the traverse, in winter conditions, is late winter when the ice has consolidated.

Starting from Tahurangi Lodge climb initially on the North Ridge to 1800m. Travel west on a rising traverse to the middle of the Flounder at 1950m. Continue west to Minarapa Col at 1860m. It is an obvious break in the ridge above the prominent point of Saw Tooth (1820m). Traverse Minarapa Valley under the Hammer and climb south-west to 2000m and to the base of the Turtle at 2000m. Gradually descend towards the Big Pyramid 1458m. Passing above the Big Pyramid and beneath a long line of bluffs above the Kahui moss slopes, the route goes just above Turehu Hill (1420m). A lone snow pole stands on the col immediately above Turehu hill. Cross into the Okahu Gorge and gain Hughsons Ledge at 1585m. Gradually climb to Bobs Ridge above Bobs Bluff (1967m). Descend to Skeets Ridge and traverse to Fanthams Peak (1966m). If condition are unsuitable a descent of Bobs Ridge to the Around the Mountain Circuit at 1400m and a climb up to Fanthams Peak may be more appropriate. From the top of Fanthams Peak it is necessary to climb slightly across the head of the Kapuni Gorge, and then to descend gradually to the Policeman (1876m) and to then to Warwick Col between Warwick Castle and Lion Rock. Descend into Organ Pipe Valley and traverse under the bluffs at 1500m to Tahurangi Lodge. The best time to undertake the high level circuit is early to late summer. In November and December some of the deeper gorges still have a depth of snow sufficient to ease the crossings. After March, however, the scoria on the southern slopes is liable to be frozen, making conditions difficult even for experienced climbers. Time: 12 hours (in good conditions).