Minarapa Valley

(12 routes)

Rock Climbing.
Climbers have frequented the Minarapa over the years and several alpine style rock scrambles have been undertaken, but alas, not recorded here as rock routes.

Ice Climbing.
The Minarapa Valley is an atmospheric and uncrowded spot in winter, with the best collection of reliable ice routes in easy reach of Tahurangi Lodge.
All climbing to date has been on the east side of the valley and up from Minarapa Col. A long line of cliffs form a number of major buttresses broken by gullies. The first buttress is split by a number of major grooves and crack lines, the most prominent of which takes the form of a large left-facing corner in its upper section with a line of ice spilling over overhanging rocks at its base. This forms the line of the following magnificent pitch.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
1900m
Access: 

From Tahurangi Lodge follow the Summit Track to Drinking Rock then sidle over the Flounder to Minarapa Col a short distance above the Sawtooth. Descend into the valley.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.287280000000, 174.061031000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Dumb and Dumber 17 70m
0
wire representing trad
A two pitch route up a prominent groove on the first wall up from the col.
Kevin Conaglen, Duncan Kemsley,1996
Wright Route 14 70m
0
wire representing trad
Take grooves and cracks up the left edge of the obvious large buttress up from the Minarapa Col. Finishes by a loose gully, move right for better rock.
Colin Wright, Barry Jury, Chris Prudden, c.1977
Summer Shadows 14 , 70m
0
wire representing trad
Begin 100m up from the col. Start on fractured leaning slabs that lead to loose broken ground and belay on a big ledge with a rock spike.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11440mYes
 Begin 100m up from the col. Start on fractured leaning slabs that lead to loose broken ground and belay on a big ledge with a rock spike.
230mYes
 Move up rough slabs to the right and finish to ridge on blocky ground.
Chris Prudden, Steve Orr, Paul Carlson, 1986
Piece of Cake 12 35m
0
wire representing trad
From the col at the bottom of the main Minarapa Bluff, follow the block ridge north towards the Cake. Climb the steepening ridge. Approximately 10m from the top move right, then back left and layback to finish on top of the Cake.
Nick Hight, Ross Eden, 01/99
Underworld WI5 45m
1.02
The direct entry to the groove wasn’t formed on the occasion of the first ascent so the big corner was gained by steep grooves just to the right. The big corner was then followed on superb ice to an unstable exit. The name derives from the strong smell of sulphur, which was somehow wafting around in the blizzard during the climb!
Iain Young and T Viets, Aug. 1996.
Gully 1 WI3
0
The obvious gully bounding the big buttress on its left. Can have big mushroom formations at its top.
Kevin Conaglen, Chris Prudden, M Davidson, late 70s.
Malcontent WI4
1.02
The big buttress has an obvious line of grooves up its left arete, taken by Malcontent (could be the summer line of the Wright Route). Excellent mixed climbing with rock protection and a belay at the mid-height on a huge spike makes for an enjoyable and relatively safe outing.
Mark Hall and Greg Banks, Sept. 1995.
The Silver Screen WI4 80m
0
In the centre of the big buttress is an obvious continuous wide smear of ice. This forms the line of the climb (summer line of Summer Shadows), with a big spike belay at mid-height shared with Malcontent.
Iain Young and Alec Heilbron, Sept. 1995.
Upper Gully WI2
0
The gully bounding the big buttress on its uphill side.
Russell Braddock, Chris Prudden, Colin Wright, late 70s.
TV Block WI4
0
To the right of the upper buttress. Look out for TV blocks.
Dave Bolger, Greg Larkin (solo) Sept. 1997
Whakaropai WI3
0
Follow the crest of the upper buttress in one or two pitches.
Gareth Sharp and S Parker, Oct. 1994.
Headwall WI3
0
The headwall of the Minarapa Valley can probably be climbed direct early or late in the season. However, for much of the time, it is covered in steep and unstable chandeliers of ice. (it catches the sun) In these conditions an enjoyable pitch can be had at about grade III up a short ramp groove system lower on the right side looking up.
Mark Hall and Iain Young, Sept. 1995.