Summit climbs from North Egmont

Directly under the cliffs of East Ridge, Teds Alley narrows dramatically and terminates in a short near-vertical step at 2180m. Early winter is the best time to climb when the crux has received a suitable coating of ice. Late winter when the step is filled in with snow drifts it can provide the more adventurous skier an exhilarating descent. Travel south from Tahurangi Lodge on a rising traverse commencing immediately above the Around the Mountain Circuit to Organ Pipes Valley. Climb the Organ Pipes Valley adjacent to the Eiger Wall taking the left hand exit gully and traverse south under the East Face and East Ridge at 2000m. Continue up and south into the steepening Teds Alley and stay close in under the bluff. At the crux a sheltered belay stance can be found on either side of the gut. An excellent 1-2 pitch route immediately under the bluffs gives access to the easier upper slopes and the crater rim at 2460m. Descent: Via the North Ridge route.

East Ridge is an excellent summer or winter route and is easily discernible from the main highway descending due east from the Sharks Tooth. In summer it offers good rock under foot and in winter, excellent ice. Travel south from Tahurangi Lodge on a rising traverse commencing immediately above the Around the Mountain Circuit to Organ Pipes Valley. Climb the Organ Pipes Valley adjacent to the Eiger Wall taking the left hand exit gully and traverse south under the East Face to East Ridge at 2000m. Once on the ridge, follow the crest with increasing exposure to an obvious change in grade (crux) at approximately 2200m. Maintain a close contact with the edge to increase the difficulty of the climb or traverse to the north to less steep terrain. Continue climbing to the top of Sharks Tooth (2510m). Descend due north 60m along the arête from Sharks Tooth to a ‘chimney’, marked by wire and old steel standards, back climb the chimney into the Crater. In winter the chimney may be blocked. If this is the case continue north along the ridge and by dropping down the east face for a few metres should reveal a small series of ‘steps’ onto the top of Surrey Road route. Descent: Down the easier North Ridge route. ‡ During Winter: At the base of the crux, at 2200m, a short flattening of the ridge occurs and a small step in the bluff line is passable in winter. Traverse to the south and gain the easier slopes above the crux of Teds Alley. This alternative avoids the more icy conditions found at both cruxes but, does involve an airy traverse.

Travel south from Tahurangi Lodge on a rising traverse commencing immediately above the Around the Mountain Circuit to Organ Pipes Valley. Climb the Organ Pipes Valley adjacent to the Eiger Wall taking the left hand exit gully and to lower East at 2000m. Continue up a shallow scoop to finish on the crater rim at the chimney 2440m. Descend the chimney into the Crater. In winter the chimney may be blocked. If this is the case continue along the ridge and dropping down the east face for a few metres should reveal a small series of ‘steps’ onto the top of Surrey Road route. Descent: Normally down the easier North Ridge route.

A classic and popular winter route usually climbed from Tahurangi Lodge. Ascend a short steep slope directly above Tahurangi Lodge to a lone snow pole and continue climbing over undulating terrain to the base of Surrey Road ramp at 2200m. Ascend the steepening ramp to the crater. Descend directly into the crater. Descent: Back down Surrey Road or the easier North Ridge route.

Start as for Surrey Road above and at the base of the ramp at 2200m, traverse north-west to the ramp directly below Surrey Road. Climb the ramp to the Lizard at 2350m and either connect with the North Ridge route or continue straight up to the crater rim (2420m). When at the crater rim travel south along the ridge to a low-point known as Surrey Road Entrance. Descent: Back down Surrey Road or the easier North Ridge route.

The North Ridge route is the most travelled and best-marked route to the summit. Poles at regular intervals mark the track above the numerous wooden steps exiting Hongis Valley. The NZ Mountain Safety Council has produced a video on the route for summer conditions which can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sg5BAkJwvMg From Tahurangi Lodge at 1520m follow Hongis Valley and steps to gain North Ridge at 1700m. Continue up the ridge and over a small rocky outcrop. Follow the poles to a large rock to the northeastern side of the ridge. Drinking Rock at 1900m was once much larger but may have been broken by a rock-fall prior to 1949. Some snow poles and a worn zig-zag track generally mark the route above Drinking Rock to the Lizard Ridge (2200m). In summer climb the Lizard to Summer Entrance and the crater (2450m). In winter the Lizard can develop hard ice and the Summer Entrance becomes nearly impassable. An alternative finish is to cross into Crater Valley at approximately 2300m and follow the valley into the crater. Continue into the crater and then climb west to the high point at 2518m. Alternatively start from North Egmont via the Holly Hut Track adjacent to Camphouse and pass by Ambury Monument after 50m. Continue up steps that lead to the base of the ‘Razorback’ ridge above Tahurangi Trig station at 1180m. Follow a well defined but, not maintained, steep track on top of the ridge to the Around the Mountain Circuit junction at 1480m. Continue directly up the ridge and traverse east onto moss slopes and gain the base of North Ridge at approx 1750m. Ascend the ridge and follow the poled route as above. Descent: Same as described above. Times: North Egmont – Tahurangi Lodge 1hr, 15min. Tahurangi Lodge – Drinking Rock 1hr. Drinking Rock – Lizard 45min. Lizard – Summit 1 hr, 30min. Total: 4hr, 30min.

This is a popular route with locals and those familiar with the mountain, it offers the quickest route to the summit. Leave North Egmont via the Holly Hut Track adjacent to Camphouse and pass by Ambury Monument after 50m. Continue up steps that lead to the base of the ‘Razorback’ ridge above Tahurangi Trig station at 1180m. Follow a well defined but, not maintained, steep track on top of the ridge to the Around the Mountain Circuit junction at 1480m. Continue directly up the ridge and then traverse west to gain the ridge immediately above the prominent rock pinnacle of Humphries Castle at 1600m. From this point the route tends to be a line of depressions and footmarks in moss and scree going in a south-west direction on the north flanks of the upper North Ridge. The route follows above and below small buttresses and outcrops with increasing exposure to the Khyber Pass gully (S Gully and Ambury Bluffs) below. A steep clean lava flow leads to the run-out of Crater Valley at approximately 2000m. The tail of the Lizard is to the east. If the snow has receded from Crater Valley the climb up the smooth lava flow is the best route, bearing more south to gain the Lizard at approximately 2300m as the lava flow ‘runs out’. Traverse south onto the Lizard and follow the poled route to summit via the North Ridge route. Alternatively, traversing further west at around 2100m will provide access to the top of the Flounder and some excellent views down into the Kokowai Valley and Ahukawakawa Swamp. Follow the ridge all the way to the crater or climb west onto Heberley Ridge directly to the summit. Winter ascents generally follow Crater Valley directly to the crater at 2440m. Descent: Via the North Ridge route.

Summit, Crater Valley, Snow Valley, Hongis Valley, Tahurangi Lodge. Ski time 30 minutes approx.

Summit, Crater, Surrey Road Ramp, Hidden Valley, Nose Gully, Organ Pipes Valley. vertical. Ski time 30 minutes approx.

Pleasant Valley, East Face, Organ Pipes Valley. Ski time 40 minutes approx.