Summit climbs from Dawson Falls

The climb of Taranaki/Mt Egmont from Dawson Falls, via Fanthams Peak is a pleasant summer climb although it involves tedious scoria slopes. In winter it can prove to be icy. The route leaves Dawson Falls on the Summit Track just above the Visitor Centre at 905m. The track climbs up past Hooker Shelter to the junction to Kapuni Lodge at 1365m and at 1460m passes the junction to the Upper Lake Dive track. Continue climbing on snow/scoria above the steps following the poled route over the Knoll 1675m and from there the route follows up the scoria to a small ridge just before a rocky outcrop on the skyline (Copestone). Here the track splits, Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut 1960m, is straight on up past Copestone, the route to the hut is poled across Fanthams Peak and is 10 minutes from the junction. The route to the right heading north above the head of the Kapuni Gorge circumvents Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut and contours onto Rangitoto Flat. From Rangitoto Flat the route is unpoled and continues north directly up the main face to the South Entrance, a low point in the crater rim just west of Mackay Rocks. Terrain is scoria, while winter can produce varied snow and ice conditions, often with extensive rime. From South Entrance the summit dome lies to the north and a number of routes can be used to access the summit at 2518m. The most popular is opposite the Sharks Tooth but the south face of the dome and the rocky outcrop to the west (The Sisters) can provide interesting ice routes in winter. Descent: If returning to Syme Hut is the same, descent from Fanthams Peak is generally via the Kaupokonui Bowl just to the south of the Knoll. The descent of both the main peak to Syme Hut and the upper part of Fanthams Peak can be tedious with rimed snow conditions in winter and is not to be underestimated. Route finding across Rangitoto Flat and Fanthams Peak can be tedious in whiteout conditions. Times: Dawson Falls to Kapuni Lodge Junction – 1 hour, 15 minutes. Kapuni Lodge Junction to Fanthams Peak – 1 hour, 30 minutes. Fanthams Peak to Summit – 1 hour, 30 minutes. Total 4 hours, 15 minutes.

Climb to Syme Hut as per the South Face route. From Syme descend onto western edge of Rangitoto Flat and sidle west to gain Skeets Ridge. Follow the ridge directly to the crater rim. Alternatively, take the Upper Lake Dive Track at 1460m and continue around Fanthams Peak until the Punehu Stream is encountered, which flows between Fanthams Peak and the main cone of the mountain. The track skirts the top of the Punehu Gorge which is the highest point on the Around the Mountain Circuit at 1540m. Skeets Ridge is 100m to the west and can be easily gained and followed to the summit. Descent: Via the South Face route.

Climb to Syme Hut as per the South Face route. From Syme descend onto Rangitoto Flat and traverse to the west and gain the ridge directly above Bobs Bluff at 2000m. Follow the ridge up to the shoulder of West Ridge at 2200m. A distinct point is formed at the junction of West and Bobs Ridges. From here one can descend into the Okahu Gorge and follow the valley to the crater or continue up the West Ridge. A short distance up from the base of the bluffs at 2300m a ledge provides an interesting access into the top of Okahu Gorge. The more adventurous can ascend the bluffs above. When topping out on the crater rim 2440m, continue towards Sharks Tooth to find a suitable descent into the crater Alternatively, take the Upper Lake Dive Track at 1460m and continue around Fanthams Peak until the Mangahume Stream is encountered at 1400m. The track descends into a narrow steep sided gorge and Bobs Ridge forms the west side of the gorge. A short scramble through the scrub on to the ridge gives access to Bobs Knob 1780m. Follow the ridge to the base of Bobs Bluff 1850m and climb the 55 metre high, grade 14, Nose route. Follow the top of the bluff to gain the ridge up to the shoulder of West Ridge. Continue on as above. Descent: Via the South Face route.

Descend into the gorge just below the Knoll (1675m) and follow the eroded slide to the bottom. The base of the gorge is clean rock and access in and out varies. Scramble up the bank and onto the scoria slope. Then climb in an easterly direction until the small spur leading north is gained. The bottom end of the spur is bluffed and a couple of traverses may be necessary in order to gain enough height to avoid these bluffs. Follow this spur in a northerly direction until Curtis Ridge proper is gained, just below the Priests Fingers at 1580m. From here the Curtis Track leads back to Stratford Plateau. There are no huts on the route, although Kapuni Lodge is easily gained from the Knoll. This route is unmarked and parties need to be familiar with it in poor visibility. Approximate time from the Knoll to the Stratford Plateau: 2 hours.