East Egmont is on the eastern side of the mountain. The alpine climbs are listed in this section.
Accommodation
Ngati Ruanui Stratford Mountain Lodge
At 850m and 15km from Stratford, the Mountain House Motor Lodge is a tourist licensed hotel with an award winning à la carte restaurant. It has self-contained suites, motel units, shop and ski rental facilities.
Manganui Lodge
Follow the Manganui Gorge Track to the larger building at the base of the ski field. Owned and operated by the Stratford Mountain Club, Manganui Lodge (1240m) is the Club’s ski area base. It can be made available during the off-season. It is a fully equipped facility with all the amenities of home, including a telephone. The building is usually locked and bookings are essential.
‡ This building burnt down in August 2002. As this book goes to print it is being rebuilt and is expected to re-open by summer 2003/04. Nearby, a DoC public shelter, for day use only is open. It has toilets and water available.
From State Highway 3 approximately 600m north of the northern roundabout at Stratford, turn west onto Pembroke Road. Approximately 1km before the park boundary (10km from Stratford) is the Egmont National Park Headquarters known as the Stratford Area Office. There is a book available for recording your intentions. It is a further 8km up the road through the bush past the Mountain House Motor Lodge (850m) to reach Stratford Plateau at 1140m, 18km from Stratford. The Stratford Plateau has a poor record for vehicle security. You are advised to park lower down the road at the Mountain House Motor Lodge. There is no tramper accommodation at this road end.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2.01 | 2.01Curtis Ridge, 1+ | 1+ | 0m | ||||
Curtis Ridge is the main dividing ridge between the Manganui and the Kapuni Gorges. Its lower southern reaches are bisected by steep gullies which give rise to the Waingongoro River. |
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| Curtis Ridge/Upper Manganui Couloir, WI2 | WI2 | ||||||
The grade depends on how close to the crest of the Priest’s Fingers you stay. Under snow and ice, the Curtis Ridge, insignificant from below, provides a beautiful alpine excursion on a sequence of delicate snow areas with technical interest over the rocky section know as the Priest’s Fingers. Unfortunately, it dies out fairly low on the mountain so the best way to the summit is to traverse into the long curving couloir that drops to the top of the Manganui Gorge, or better still, use Curtis as your approach to the best the mountain has to offer, Bob’s Bluff. |
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| 2.02 | 2.02Manganui Direct, 1+ | 1+ | 0m | ||||
From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar to the base of the Top Tow (rope tow). Ascend the slope following the safety fence to 1540m and cross the large open vee-shaped valley. This is the start zone for the Manganui Monster (avalanches of size 4–5 have originated from here in the past). Ascend the rounded ridge right of the south entrance to the crater rim. |
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| 2.03 | 2.03Teds Alley, 2 | 2 | 0m | ||||
Directly under the cliffs of East Ridge, Teds Alley narrows dramatically and terminates in a short steep step at 2180m. Early winter is the best time to climb when the crux has received a suitable coating of ice. Late winter when the step is filled in with snow drifts it can provide the more adventurous skier an exhilarating descent. |
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| 2.04 | 2.04East Ridge and Sharks Tooth, 2+ | 2+ | 0m | ||||
Grade 2+ (On ice only) |
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| 2.05 | 2.05East Face – Pleasant Valley, 1+ | 1+ | 0m | ||||
East Ridge is an excellent summer or winter route and is easily discernible from State Highway 3. In summer it offers good rock underfoot and in winter excellent ice. |
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| 2.06 | 2.06Surrey Road, 1+ | 1+ | 0m | ||||
From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar to the Top Tow Shelter at 1420m. Ascend a small knoll immediately north of the shelter and continue traversing north onto a col above the Ngarara Bluff at 1620m. Proceed up the ridge and veer right to round the left-most edge of the Top Tier of the Organ Pipes. Traverse north to a shoulder immediately under the bluff at the base of Pleasant Valley and ascend the steepening ramp of Surrey Road. Descend directly into the crater. |
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| South Face | 1000m | ||||||
Summit, Crater, South Face, Fanthams Peak, Kapuni Lodge or return to Manganui Ski Area via Curtis Ridge. |
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