Summit climbs from East Egmont

(8 routes)

East Egmont is on the eastern side of the mountain. The alpine climbs are listed in this section.
Accommodation
Mountain House Motor Lodge
At 850m and 15km from Stratford, the Mountain House Motor Lodge is a tourist licensed hotel with an award winning à la carte restaurant. It has self-contained suites, motel units, shop and ski rental facilities.
Manganui Lodge
Follow the Manganui Gorge Track to the larger building at the base of the ski field. Owned and operated by the Stratford Mountain Club, Manganui Lodge (1240m) is the Club’s ski area base. It can be made available during the off-season. It is a fully equipped facility with all the amenities of home, including a telephone. The building is usually locked and bookings are essential.
‡ This building burnt down in August 2002. As this book goes to print it is being rebuilt and is expected to re-open by summer 2003/04. Nearby, a DoC public shelter, for day use only is open. It has toilets and water available.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Access: 

From State Highway 3 approximately 600m north of the northern roundabout at Stratford, turn west onto Pembroke Road. Approximately 1km before the park boundary (10km from Stratford) is the Egmont National Park Headquarters known as the Stratford Area Office. There is a book available for recording your intentions. It is a further 8km up the road through the bush past the Mountain House Motor Lodge (850m) to reach Stratford Plateau at 1140m, 18km from Stratford. The Stratford Plateau has a poor record for vehicle security. You are advised to park lower down the road at the Mountain House Motor Lodge. There is no tramper accommodation at this road end.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.307804000000, 174.099741000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
2.01 Curtis Ridge 1+
0
Curtis Ridge is the main dividing ridge between the Manganui and the Kapuni Gorges. Its lower southern reaches are bisected by steep gullies which give rise to the Waingongoro River. The route is not now officially maintained since a fatality in the summer of 1988, but it is still discernible to the tussock line. It can be used by the enthusiast who wishes to get away from the beaten track. The upper section of Curtis Ridge is exposed and prone to rock and icefalls. Find the track entrance about 200m below the Flying Fox on the vehicle track above the Stratford Plateau. The eroded track sidles along the northern slope until it joins the ridge proper on the mossy slopes below a prominent rocky outcrop named the Priests Fingers at 1580 m. From the Priests Fingers the route follows the scoria ridge until merging with the main peak below and slightly to the south of Mackay Rocks. Traverse left and join the southern route to the south entrance. There are no huts on the route but Syme Hut below can be accessed from the point where Curtis Ridge merges with the main peak.
Curtis Ridge/Upper Manganui Couloir WI2
0
The grade depends on how close to the crest of the Priest’s Fingers you stay. Under snow and ice, the Curtis Ridge, insignificant from below, provides a beautiful alpine excursion on a sequence of delicate snow areas with technical interest over the rocky section know as the Priest’s Fingers. Unfortunately, it dies out fairly low on the mountain so the best way to the summit is to traverse into the long curving couloir that drops to the top of the Manganui Gorge, or better still, use Curtis as your approach to the best the mountain has to offer, Bob’s Bluff.
2.02 Manganui Direct 1+
0
From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar to the base of the Top Tow (rope tow). Ascend the slope following the safety fence to 1540m and cross the large open vee-shaped valley. This is the start zone for the Manganui Monster (avalanches of size 4–5 have originated from here in the past). Ascend the rounded ridge right of the south entrance to the crater rim. Alternatively, from upper Curtis Ridge climb directly towards the summit ascending Mackay Rocks (Right of Mackays 2-).
2.03 Teds Alley 2
0
Directly under the cliffs of East Ridge, Teds Alley narrows dramatically and terminates in a short steep step at 2180m. Early winter is the best time to climb when the crux has received a suitable coating of ice. Late winter when the step is filled in with snow drifts it can provide the more adventurous skier an exhilarating descent. From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar and then the rope tow passing the south side of the Policeman 1876m. Climb into the steepening Teds Alley and stay close in under the bluff. At the crux a sheltered belay stance can be found on either side of the gut. An excellent 1–2 pitch route immediately under the bluffs gives access to the easier upper slopes and the crater rim at 2460m. Descent: Either down the easier North Ridge route or more directly: climb the chimney from the crater and descend directly below, moving south-east across the East Face, returning to East Ridge below the crux. Cross the ridge above the Policeman, 1876m, to the flanks above the ski field and descend slopes to the ski-field.
2.04 East Ridge and Sharks Tooth 2+
0
Grade 2+ (On ice only) East Ridge is an excellent summer or winter route and is easily discernible from the main highway descending due east from the Sharks Tooth. In summer it offers good rock underfoot and in winter, variable ice. From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar and then the rope tow. In winter ascend to the left of the Policeman, 1876m, to the base of East Ridge. In summer, from near the top of the rope tow, traverse north and ascend to the right of the Policeman to gain East Ridge. Once on the ridge, follow the crest with increasing exposure to a steepening (crux) at approximately 2200m. Continue climbing to the top of Sharks Tooth (2510m). Descend due north 60m along the arête from Sharks Tooth to a ‘chimney’, marked by wire and old steel standards, descend the chimney into the crater. In winter the chimney may be blocked. If this is the case continue north along the ridge and by dropping down the East Face for a few metres should reveal a small series of ‘steps’ onto the top of Surrey Road route. Descent: Either down the easier North Ridge route or more directly; climb the chimney from the crater and descend directly below, moving south-east across the East Face, returning to East Ridge below the crux. Cross the ridge above the Policeman, 1876m, to the flanks above the ski field and descend slopes to the ski-field. ‡ At the base of the crux, at 2200m, a short flattening of the ridge occurs and a small step in the bluff line is passable in winter. Carefully traverse to the south and gain the easier slopes above the crux of Teds Alley. This alternative avoids the more icy conditions found at both cruxes but, does involve an airy traverse. Times: Stratford Plateau – Manganui Lodge 30min. Manganui Lodge – Policeman 1.5hr. Policeman – Crux 1.5hr. Crux – Sharks Tooth 1hr. Total: 4hr, 30min.
2.05 East Face – Pleasant Valley 1+
0
East Ridge is an excellent summer or winter route and is easily discernible from State Highway 3. In summer it offers good rock underfoot and in winter excellent ice. From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar and then the rope tow. In winter ascend to the left of the Policeman (1876m), to the base of East Ridge. In summer, from near the top of the rope tow, traverse north and ascend to the right of the Policeman to gain East Ridge. Once on the ridge, follow the crest with increasing exposure to a change in grade at approximately 2200m. On a rising traverse head north from East Ridge arête to gain a steep scoop after approximately 120m and climb directly up Pleasant Valley to the chimney at the crater rim (2480m). Descent: Either down the easier North Ridge route or more directly; climb the chimney from the Crater and descend directly below, moving south-east across the East Face, returning to East Ridge below the crux. Cross the ridge above the Policeman (1876m), to the flanks above the skifield and descend slopes to the ski-field. The name was given by John Jordan and Ted Thomson after a mid 1960s winter ascent of the route.
2.06 Surrey Road 1+
0
From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar to the Top Tow Shelter at 1420m. Ascend a small knoll immediately north of the shelter and continue traversing north onto a col above the Ngarara Bluff at 1620m. Proceed up the ridge and veer right to round the left-most edge of the Top Tier of the Organ Pipes. Traverse north to a shoulder immediately under the bluff at the base of Pleasant Valley and ascend the steepening ramp of Surrey Road. Descend directly into the crater. Descent: Back down Surrey Road or the easier North Ridge route.
South Face 1000m
0
Summit, Crater, South Face, Fanthams Peak, Kapuni Lodge or return to Manganui Ski Area via Curtis Ridge. Ski time 30 minutes approx.
Attribution: 
Eden, Ross. Taranaki Mount Egmont; A guide for climbers. NZAC, 2003.