The summit area generally lacks cohesive ice conditions found elsewhere on the mountain. Nevertheless there are a number of good single pitches with safe belays.
Places
| Type | Name | Alert |
|---|---|---|
| Face | Escudo Buttress | |
| Face | Sisters Ridge |
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| South Ridge, WI2 | WI2 | 0m | |||||
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Follow the crater rim from the top of Ted’s Alley to the summit of Sharks Tooth. Difficulties can be avoided by moving right, or gained by moving left.
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| 10 Second Gully, WI3 | WI3 | 0m | |||||
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Follows the obvious shallow gully just left of Sharks Tooth south ridge.
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| Crater Face, WI3 | WI3 | 0m | |||||
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As viewed from the summit, the Crater Face on Sharks Tooth has two prominent groove lines leading up and right and up and left from a common start. The right hand route follows, surprise, surprise, the right hand groove and has a steep finish (4). The left hand is generally easier (3). The right hand line can also be finished by moving left from below the top corner.
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| West Face of the Summit Block, WI3 | WI3 | 0m | |||||
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A good pitch in a fine situation starting up an obvious left to right ramp then directly to the summit. Only one short, steep, step at the top of the initial ramp.
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| West Ridge Direct, WI3 | WI3 | 0m | |||||
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The West Ridge forms a beautiful snow arete in its upper reaches and a narrow ice arete around the southern crater rim. Separating the two is a steep pitch, seldom climbed, which forms the crux of the West Ridge Direct.
Climb the steep step, on the West ridge in one pitch, generally up the grooves, heading up and right (or left) depending on conditions. Finish along the South Crater Rim and enjoy the situation! |
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