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Summit Area

Type
Altitude
2400m

The summit area generally lacks cohesive ice conditions found elsewhere on the mountain. Nevertheless there are a number of good single pitches with safe belays.

Lat/lon
-39.295982,174.064722, NZ Topo Map
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Places

Type Name Alert
Face Escudo Buttress
Face Sisters Ridge

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 South Ridge, WI2 WI2 0m
0

Follow the crater rim from the top of Ted’s Alley to the summit of Sharks Tooth. Difficulties can be avoided by moving right, or gained by moving left.


  • P1
  • Water Ice WI2

 10 Second Gully, WI3 WI3 0m
0

Follows the obvious shallow gully just left of Sharks Tooth south ridge.


  • P1
  • Water Ice WI3

 Crater Face, WI3 WI3 0m
0

As viewed from the summit, the Crater Face on Sharks Tooth has two prominent groove lines leading up and right and up and left from a common start. The right hand route follows, surprise, surprise, the right hand groove and has a steep finish (4). The left hand is generally easier (3). The right hand line can also be finished by moving left from below the top corner.


  • P1
  • Water Ice WI3

 West Face of the Summit Block, WI3 WI3 0m
0

A good pitch in a fine situation starting up an obvious left to right ramp then directly to the summit. Only one short, steep, step at the top of the initial ramp.


  • P1
  • Water Ice WI3

 West Ridge Direct, WI3 WI3 0m
0

The West Ridge forms a beautiful snow arete in its upper reaches and a narrow ice arete around the southern crater rim. Separating the two is a steep pitch, seldom climbed, which forms the crux of the West Ridge Direct.


  • P1
  • Water Ice WI3

Climb the steep step, on the West ridge in one pitch, generally up the grooves, heading up and right (or left) depending on conditions. Finish along the South Crater Rim and enjoy the situation!


Comments
UUID
 
8b5b2040-39b1-4101-b084-3c48180e8215