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Bobs Bluff


The Nose, a magnificent crag in winter garb, wouldn’t be out of place in the Cairngorms. As you approach from the Rangitoto Flat the 1km long Bobs Bluff faces you. The right end of this wall is marked by a broad funnel-shaped couloir, just left of that is a narrow gully, the line of Jalapeno. The left skyline gives the line of approach up the lower icefalls. The adventure potential elsewhere is obvious!

POINT (174.052277 -39.304616)
BJ29 907 489

The most distant of all the crags on the mounga from any of the road ends. The best approach is from Dawson Falls over Fanthams Peak/Rangitoto Flat.

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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Funnel Gully, WI1 WI1

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI1

A straightforward, steep snow climb makes for a convenient descent after a route.

 Jalapeno, WI5 WI5

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI5

So called since it’s a spicy little number and was done with ‘The Mexican’ on the first ascent. The first (contrived) pitch ascends steep snow and easy ice to a poor rock belay at the start of the steep section. The gully is then followed over three successively easier steps to the top. May become much easier after very heavy snow.

 Nose Direct, WI4 WI4

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI4

This is a winter ascent of the summer route. A first pitch with a steep start was manufactured to steep icefalls on the lower bands, then two pitches lead up the crest and via a magnificent finishing groove to the top of the bluff. Good ice for climbing, but an appalling belay and stance at mid-height made for a psychologically demanding first ascent.