Mt Tasman

(32 routes)

NZ's second highest summit.

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
3497m
Lat/Lon: 
-43.565321470000, 170.157250970000
NZMS260: 
H36 804 341
Topo50: 
BX15 704 725
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Silberhorn Arête 3+
1.02
Climb to the Main Divide via Clarke Saddle, Graham Spur, or Silberhorn. Then ascend the final steep ice arête; a classically beautiful ice climb.
Jack Clarke, Edward FitzGerald, Mattias Zurbriggen, Feb 1895.
Direct to the south of the Summit 4-
0
Up directly to the col between Silberhorn and Mt Tasman.
Kobi Bosshard, Fritz Schaumburg, Jan 1962.
Direct to the North Shoulder 4
0
Up slopes under the summit of Mt Tasman parallel to Syme Ridge, finishing either directly to the summit or onto the North Shoulder.
Hans Leitner, Eberhard von Terzi, Jan 1960.
Syme Ridge 3+
1.02
Access onto the ridge is either up the slopes under the East Face (the ‘Mad Mile’), up a broad gully on the toe of the ridge, or from the north-east side of the ridge (a rock section on the ridge has been crumbling away for some years but seems to be stable now). Then follow a narrow winding arête, which gradually broadens, to gain the North Shoulder of Mt Tasman. From here follow the Main Divide, which narrows before rising to the summit.
Dan Bryant, Rod Syme, 1930.
North Shoulder 3+
1.02
This route starts from Engineer Col and is best gained from Lendenfeld Peak (From Marcel Col). The col can be accessed directly from the Heemskirk Glacier but is sometimes cut off or threatened by icecliffs/avalanches off Tasman. Above Engineer Col, the route usually follows steeper ice gullies to where Syme Ridge joins the North Shoulder. Although the section above the col has changed markedly over the last 15 years it still provides a relatively straightforward route onto the shoulder. The broad North Shoulder eventually narrows into an exhilarating ridge, which leads to the summit. Also used as a descent route.
Marcel Kurz, Harold Porter, Jan 1927 (Descended).
West Ridge 4
1.02
A classic climb. Remoteness, lack of escape routes, and the need usually to traverse Torres Peak make this a long route. Above the Torres-Tasman Col use the rock ribs on the Balfour Glacier side and then follow the narrow arête upward. The arête gradually broadens out towards the summit of Tasman.
Les Cleveland, Neil Hamilton, John Lange, Jan 1951. (Descended during the first Tasman-Torres Traverse).
Attribution: 
Alex Palman Photo by Clayton Garbes

Places

Type Title Edit link
Face (Alpine) East Face (2 routes)
Face (Alpine) Heemskirk Face (3 routes)
Face (Alpine) Abel Janszoon Face (9 routes)
Face (Alpine) Hidden Face (5 routes)
Face (Alpine) Balfour Face (7 routes)