Balfour Face

(7 routes)

All routes are accessed from the Upper Balfour Neve

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Mists of Avalon 6+
Ascend steep ice left of the buttress followed by the Left Buttress Route. Thirteen pitches (first four are the crux). Reportedly harder than the original line.
John Fantini, Tony Dignan, Jan 1986.
Left Buttress 6
Ascend the rock buttress on the left side of the face, but right of the prominent icecliffs. Steep climbing on rock gives way to mixed ground and then steep ice onto the summit icefields.
Marty Beare, John Entwisle, Feb 1983.
Rattus Balfourus 6
Just right of the Left Buttress is a narrow couloir leading up to the headwall ice shared with the Original Route. From here it is possible to either ascend the icewalls out left or tend right towards the Tasman-Silberhorn ridge.
Russell Braddock, Kim Logan, Nov 1982.
Original Route 6
The route that started it all. Ascend the gully (or the rib on its right) in the centre of the face before being confronted by rising icewalls. Climb these tending left and finish up 45o ice slopes to the summit. Some parties have climbed the ice walls direct and finished on the Tasman-Silberhorn ridge.
Bill Denz, Bryan Pooley, Dec 1971.
Whimp/ Lindblade 6-
Gully right of the Original Route. Steep, with hard ice in winter.
Athol Whimp, Andrew Lindblade, Jul 1993.
Mr Curly’s Big Adventure 5 16
Climb the Right Buttress involving 200m of rock. The first pitch is solid, but the rest is more exciting (crux 16). 200m of ice follows the rock, starting at 70o and kicking back, as the route joins the Silberhorn-Tasman ridge at mid height.
Jonathan Chapman, Joe Stock, Jan 1995.
A Right Buttress Variant
100m right of the Original Route.
Jeff Sandifort, T Vervonsi, Jan 1997.
Alex Palman

This place appears in