Abel Janszoon Face

(9 routes)

Above the Abel Janszoon Glacier. Witches Col, between the North Buttress route on Mt Tasman and The Buttress can provide a access point to the Abel Janszoon Glacier

Face (Alpine)
North West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Centurion 5 18
The major zigzag buttress right of the North Buttress, in the centre of the face is capped by steep ice onto the North Shoulder. 19 rope lengths of excellent mixed climbing involves three major steps, the third can be avoided to the right. First ascent team bivvied twice en route (a good site is at 2/3 height). Direct variation. Climb the third buttress directly (crux 18).
Dave Crow, Andy MacFarlane, Jon Taylor, Jun 1994 (Direct variation).
White Jasmine 5
Start up the same gully as the Abel Janszoon Face Route to gain the broad rock buttress on the left. Follow the buttress tending left to exit via a hidden couloir that leads through the final rock curtain below the icecliffs. Ascend through the icecliffs onto the North Shoulder.
Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Mar 1983.
Abel Janszoon Face, to North Ridge 5
Ascend the gully start of the Abel Janszoon Face Route, and instead of moving right on the large snowfields continue straight up the gully systems onto the North Ridge of Mt Tasman.
Steve Elder, Jun 1986.
Abel Janszoon Face 5
Ascend a gully line to the left of the prominent icecliffs in the middle of the face, moving right onto the central snowfields. Finish up steep sastrugied ice to the left of the summit.
Merv English, Murray Jones, Dec 1977.
Nipple Rib 5
Starting on the left side of the Stevenson-Dick Couloir, head up steep snow to the foot of a major rib leading to the West Ridge. Ascend rock of reasonable quality for 15 pitches to emerge onto a prominent rock tower known as the Nipple, 130m below the summit of Tasman.
Phil Grover, John Nankervis, Jan 1982.
Harris-Jones Rib 4+
The route ascends the lower Stevenson-Dick Couloir and then moves left onto a subsidiary rib beside the couloir. The rib’s rock is of variable quality, but nowhere severe.
George Harris, Murray Jones, Jan 1969.
Stevenson-Dick Couloir 3+
A continuous 800m slope descending from the West Ridge, averaging 40-50o. Beware soft snow avalanches and rockfall. Has been skied!
Doug Dick, Harry Stevenson, Dec 1941 (Descended).
The Dream of the Dutch Sailors 4+
On the buttress between the Stevenson-Dick Couloir and Path of Manolin which is the buttress is in profile in pic. Route follows steep snowfields linking mixed runnels through rockbands R of the Stevenson Dick couloir
Stuart Hollaway and Dale Thistlethwaite 23–24 December 2012
Path of Manolin 5+ 18
Climb to West Ridge. Mentioned p20 Climber #80 NZAJ 2013 pg 45
Felix Landman, Stuart Holloway Jan 2011
Alex Palman

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