Abel Janszoon Face

(12 routes)

Above the Abel Janszoon Glacier. Witches Col, between the North Buttress route on Mt Tasman and The Buttress can provide a access point to the Abel Janszoon Glacier

Face (Alpine)
North West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
11.131 Centurion VI 5+ 5 18
The major zigzag buttress right of the North Buttress. There are approximately 15 pitches of excellent mixed climbing involving three major rock steps. The first ascent team avoided the second rock step by ‘dropping into the gully on the right.’ Variation: climb the second buttress directly (Tech Grade 6, crux 18). This route is best climbed in the spring or winter when a bit of ice holds any loose rock together. The first ascent team bivvied twice en route (a good site is at two thirds height on a narrow ice arête). Dave Crow, Andy MacFarlane, Jon Taylor, Jun 1994
Dave Crow, Andy MacFarlane, Jon Taylor, Jun 1994
11.132 White Jasmine VI 4+ 5
Start up the same gully as the original route (11.134) to gain the broad rock buttress on the left. Follow the buttress tending left to exit via a hidden couloir that leads through the final rock curtain below the icecliffs. Ascend through the icecliffs onto the North Shoulder.
Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Mar 1983.
11.133 Elder 5
Ascend the gully start of the Original Route (11.134) and, instead of moving right on the large snowfields, continue straight up the gully systems onto the North Shoulder.
Steve Elder, Jun 1986.
11.134 Original VI 4 5
Ascend a gully line to the left of the prominent icecliffs in the middle of the face, moving right onto the central snowfields. Finish up steep sastrugied ice to the left of the summit.
Merv English, Murray Jones, Dec 1977.
11.135 Nipple Rib VI 4+ 5
Starting on the left side of the Stevenson-Dick Couloir, head up steep snow to the foot of a major rib leading to the west ridge. Ascend rock of reasonable quality for 15 pitches to emerge onto a prominent rock tower known as the Nipple, 130m below the summit of Tasman.
Phil Grover, John Nankervis, Jan 1982.
11.136 Harris-Jones Rib VI 4+ 4+
The route ascends the lower Stevenson-Dick Couloir, and then moves left onto a subsidiary rib beside the couloir. The rock on the rib is of variable quality but nowhere is severe climbing.
George Harris, Murray Jones, Jan 1969.
11.137 Stevenson-Dick Couloir V 3+ 3+
A continuous 800m slope descending from the West ridge, averaging 40–50 degrees. Beware soft snow avalanches and rockfall. Has been skied.
Doug Dick, Harry Stevenson, Dec 1941 (Descended).
11.138 The Dream of the Dutch Sailors V 4+ 4+
Gain the buttress between the icecliff and the base of the Stevenson-Dick Couloir, and head straight up snow and mixed steps on the crest of the buttress, aiming for the mixed gully that breaches the headwall, and then continue up the crest. A terrific big moderate route with enough variety in the climbing to keep it interesting, but easy enough to travel fast. Continue up the West Ridge and down the North Shoulder.
Stuart Hollaway and Dale Thistlethwaite 23–24 December 2012
11.139 Path of Manolin 5+ 18,V 5
Up the 550m rock buttress immediately left of the Torres-Tasman Col to reach the start of the ice on the west ridge. There are two pitches of grade 17, which are steep and well protected. The rest of the climbing is around grade 12 with, just a bit of scruffy mucking about. Being situated on a buttress gives it a feeling of being safe from most of the objective hazards above.
Felix Landman, Stuart Holloway Jan 2011
11.140 West Ridge V 4
One of the great New Zealand classics, involving remoteness, exposure, and absolutely engaging ridge climbing. The normal route traverses Torres Peak, making this a long, committing route. Above Torres-Tasman Col, use the rock ribs on the Balfour Glacier side, and then follow the narrow arête upward. The arête gradually broadens out towards the summit of Tasman. Knowing this takes the sting out of the commitment of the route. If you need to escape from low down on the ridge, the best option is probably back up to the summit of Torres, and then down the North East Couloir. Just make sure you can descend the Abel Janszoon Glacier, as it sometimes gets cut off with large crevasses.
Les Cleveland, Neil Hamilton, John Lange, Jan 1951 (descended during the first Tasman-Torres Traverse).
11.141 Full West Ridge via the Fox Range V 4
This is a classic journey starting 3330m below the summit of Tasman. Requires creativity in your planning, a good weather window, and about three days. It’s possible to skirt around Big Mac on the Balfour side on a narrow snow ledge. This avoids dropping down long snow slopes on the Fox side to Katies Col.
Aat Vervoorn, Dec 1999
11.142 Torres -Tasman Col V 4
A short route of steep snow and ice, which unfortunately tends to act as a funnel for any rubbish falling from the surrounding slopes. Stay away.
Alex Palman

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